RedPath88

Yes the last digit signifies the amount of lift

We JUST covered both of those.... not to mention that they have both been covered many many times... especially the UCA's This is not a flame... but PLEASE try the search function

Nice to se your sticking around.... thanks for the update

Your not alone when it come to them always operating the way they are supposed to... But they do go from locked to unlocked and back to locked when you change direction while in 4WD... it's just the way they work.

Added a few more posts *Quoted just to keep it visible to members.

^^^ Taking the fun out of figuring it out on your own ^^^

Please visit the PoHo for more information or this subject

Are the AC compressor lines still there? If they are just pick on and start following it, if you find an open dead end before you get to the other compressor line, then something is missing. Post up where it ended if that happens

If all that is wrong with the existing engine is the blown head gasket, then why not change it? It would be much easier than an engine swap... change both while your at it.

I never moved them, the bracket that I made stands to the inside of the relay housing *meaning the relay box is in its stock location and is between the inner fenderwell and the oil relo

Dual or single? Here is a pic of where I mounted my Dual kit Ad here is how Filthy Lurker did his Be both used the same location but went about it differently in regard to the brackets we made. EDIT 07/03/2009: Two pic fixed and two more added, Note that the zip ties were temporary and have since been removed. This was to stop a leak that developed between the hoses and barb fittings

We definitely will need follow up reports on this setup

Sounds like a plan!... the wheeling, not the quitting A group of us (including Mr. P and I) just went down to Tayuha a couple weeks back. there is talk of a Vancouver (WA) trip maybe soon. Tillimook and Sand Beach in the summer.. perhaps Retiers. ...I think this will be a good year ***Maybe with a little nudging we may even be able to get Mr. Jim to attend one or more

Welcome back Jim, It is good to see you post again, as is the news that your health is improving. I must also say that direction you have described for Nissanpathfinders.com sounds like it will be a great improvement. Scott

What about using a universal remote in place of the factory one?

Yeah an 8-8.5in rim is about ideal for a 10.5in wide tire.

Just a little info, 15x7's are stock with the 31's and 15x6's were used with the P235/75R15 I have the 15x6 steel wheels and mounted 31's on them.

Clean up the terminal and see if that helps. You could also strip a "little" of the sheathing back and see if the corrosion has made its way down the cable. If it has, you can get a replacement bolt on terminal, cut out the section of cable that is bad and reconnect it. But if the cable is corroded to far info it then just replace it since no matter if the start is good or bad you will need a new cable But I am with 88 on this, I think it is the starter as well.

Thank you all... I will do my best to help keep NPORA clean Now I can just delete the spam when it appears late at night, rather than simply notify the rest of you and wait... of course, we have a whole lot less spam now days.

Nice looking Pathy

That thing just keeps getting better and better So how much longer do you have in BC? It's a while iirc

On WD21's Autos/Manuals make no difference to the MPG. When in 2WD, with the hubs unlocked the front drive components are not moving. Are you possibly thinking of the R50's with the stock drive flanges? With drive flanges the connection is constant and cannot be "unlocked" so the front end is constantly being spun by the tires, thus decreasing the MPG by a little bit... unless you install manual or auto locking hubs in place of them.

Manuals: You have to get out and physically turn manual hubs to lock them in. This allows you to "feel" them engage. Manuals stay locked until you unlock them by turning them back the other way. To unlock them you have to get out and turn each one to the unlock positions It is excepted that quality manuals are stronger than autos Autos: You simply shift into 4WD and drive a foot or so to engage autos. But you don't know for sure that they are engaged until you need them. Autos unlock and lock every time you change directions (forward/back) Autos you simply shift out of 4WD, then back up a few feet to unlock them. Autos are far more convenient that manuals

Looks good Now to get the lift in