RedPath88

Perhaps some of this may help MZ (from the 1994/5 Manual) EDIT: Changed the first two pics to thumbnails after I nboticed that you said dial up

The aftermarket arms do not lift the truck, you crank the tbars to get the lift. This is true if you have new UCAs or not. What the arms do is correct the ball joint angle when you have the TBars crank and the truck lifted. This helps reduce wear on the upper ball joint.

Not really... I have had them long enough that I don't even really notice thy are there when I am driving.

Nobody is willing to offer up an opinon on this? In case there was any confusion... the pic I posted above was not of my engine, that is the one he plans on installing

FWI... Mercury Villager's are the same as a Quest (gives you a little more to look for)

Yeah if you have the time, money and tools and you really[/] want to keep IFS, swap in the IFS from another truck where the TBars attach to the UCA... there are some out there, Toyota 86-95 for example... hmmm... (*thinks back to the idea Martin and I have pondered*) ...nope, still no time to really jump into something like that

Here you go... This is a picture of the crankshaft on the engine that he plans to use as a replacement. This is going to be familiar to at least some of you... this is what led to the replacement of my engine. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...=20entry56010 So I think it may be a good idea for people to offer their view points and recommendations given this new info.

That would be my recommendation, do it by the book... at least the first time

If your talking about unbolting the pipes... Mine is a manual and I don't think it would make a difference if it was an Auto or Manual... but I have never checked to see if the clearance is the same on an Auto (but it is probably pretty close to the same) Now about the engine removal without dropping the front end... I won't lie, it took time and some thinking, positioning, rethinking and repositioning before it was out... going back in was not cut and dry either.

Don't worry, axle was close enough... that is not what I mean. I said that because I did not drop or even unbolt the front end But I did remove the TBars to give the tranny room to move. I used a universal joint and a 20in extention (going up from below) to get the bolts out at the pipe/manifold.

Some A/C Compressors are better for OBA than others. Although I do not know for sure about ours, I have never heard much about Nissan units being one of the better ones.

The starter is on the right side under the exhaust manifold. I disconnected the pipes at the manifolds How far are you tearing the engine blck down and are you swapping the crankshafts? If you are NOT, then you need to contact Slick as I just replied to an email from her about your engine Hmm, dropping the axle/front end.. that is foreign to me.... I'll let someone else help you there other parts.. new water pump unless you are SURE that yours is in good shape timing belt and possibly tensioner With the engine out, it would be a good time to change the cam seals too some others things that I can't seem to think of right now

Same there, I also have the in channel ones. Going one two or three years and no problems at all... other than what 88 mentioned about people grabbing them, but they have not yet been pulled out. I got mine at GI Joe's.

It just keeps getting better and better

Its below the right hand exhaust manifold at the back of the engine. It mounts to the front of the transmission using two bolts.

When it did finally turn over, was it slow.. as if the battery lacked proper power? If it did get the battery and charging system checked out. If it seemed to have normal power then it sounds like the starter solenoid is going. It is located on the side of the starter and I am not sure if it can be replaced separately from the starter on a Nissan (not sure if anyone sells just them) so a starter replacement may be needed

I think he means a center arm rest... I have seen a couple with them (or that "had" them). But most of the pathy's I see in wrecking yards never had one. Mine does not, nor did it.

Ditto, remove the POS cable BEFORE starting. And no, it's not hard to change the alt

As was mine ($30).. and a $13 fan. This is on the yota.. the Pathy gets it when the $40-85 clutch goes south

I agree

There really is not much to the swap (if you keep the trucks original intake) basically your just swapping the block and heads... while keeping the trucks original intake components.

^ He means do you want TBI ('87 VG30i) or MPFI ('92 VG30e) as both are EFI

I am assuming that your going to use this as a spare? If you have a good spare already save your money and stick with that. Then later if you refit the truck with MT's (or even AT's) throw that MT on the spare What size is the rim and what is the rest of the size on that MT?

The split boots are listed at PartsAmerica.com for $19

You have plans for one hell of a project there I have to agree with 88 on the 350 vs. T'ed V6 idea. Unless you have the extra money and the time to get it all together and then make it all work, the 350 would be the best choice.