RedPath88

Both sides combined I have about 3-3.5in of radiator to the sides of the shroud. If that is not any wider than this then you may be able to position it without modification. If it is wider then you'll probably have to trim it. I personally would trim off what you need then bond the end of it back in where you trimmed, so that it closes the opening back up forcing it to pull more air through the radiator like is should

read Scott READ!!!

Yeah as JJ said a 3.8L Taurus fan has nine blades and it should also have a 3pin connector (Hi/Low/Ground) Mine has a slightly different shroud, it does not have the extension below the cutout. Looks like this: Strange, I have never seen one with that extension on it, and I looked at a lot of (busted) them while I was searching for a used replacement for my old LX. Checked Schucks website (becoming oreilly auto) and they do not show the one you found. That one looks to be the same fan though, perhaps it's from a T-Bird/Cougar/MarkVII

Or an LE, but I don't remember now if LE's were 94-95 or just 95

There is little rhyme or reason to the way Nissan did things. Some XE's came with more options than some of the SE's out there. SE's do not automatically have "this" or "that" And for the most part XE's don't automatically "not" have something. Both can be found with disks, both with LSD's both with 4.6's and all combinations of them. Not sure what trim level the truck I got my rear disk parts off of for my conversion was, but it had 4.6's and no LSD. So no, 4.6's and/or rear disks does not mean LSD as well. The same holds true for most available options, in and out

Yeah I made it work, it just don't look as factory as I would like it too

That explains why mine was such a pain to install and get fitted half way decent, at first I thought maybe it was from another truck (it was just laying in it when I found it) Now I will have to look for another truck equipped with one so I can get the bracket

Nope, body lifts do not effect the suspension in any way, including shock lengths.

You missed the pre ipb and even pre "NPORA" days http://web.archive.org/web/20020125231656/.../www.mrjim.net/

Perhaps it's time to add "Petersens 4Wheel & Off Road, Readers Rides June 2009" to that pic

Well at least we know he's not an impostor lol Fixed

Good to see your still kicking.. and I assume you have your Pathy too?

Right on Mike!!!!

Ford Ranger 2" Alignment Brackets Ford Ranger Alignment Brackets - No lift amount specified *Results for both or in order of price, from low to high*

Yeah as they age and the locks wear, the odds of another key working increases. And the Toyota thing is real, I can vouch for that

This was the exact reason the second company I talked too wanted to re-temper the entire shaft after welding it.

Great!! Now, do you have any constructive suggestions?

Thing about AC arms is some people report problems and some don't, take for instance 5523Pathfinders (he's posted above) his trucks ok, he had little issue which he tracked down to something else (T-Bar Indexing) So if they cannot find something wrong and reindexing the torsion bars as 5523 mentioned above does not solve it then either there is something else wrong with the truck, like a tweaked frame or maybe something wrong with the arms you got. I along with a few others got UCA's from Rough Country (exact same thing as SuperLift) that were from a batch of bad ones. Problem was identified and replacements were gladly given

--------------------------------------------------- *Moving this to the Garage so more people see it* Please feel free to do a normal intro in the new members section (where you originally posted this) --------------------------------------------------- This also happened to my truck and in my case it was both keyway slots (crank pulley & timing pulley) I looked into my options and found three. 1: Replace Engine - If you can find, afford and have the skills/tools to do an engine swap then this is a good choice if you can locate a good strong running engine. 2: Replace Crank - I had problems locating a good crank locally, only one I did have as a possible option was from another member here on the boards, but that meant shipping it from the other side of the country. And then pulling the engine would still be required as with a straight engine swap. 3: Weld Crank - I found two places that could and would do it, but again it meant pulling the engine because they would not risk welding it since the inner keyway on mine had to be done as well (to close to the seal/bearing for that amount of heat) The second place would weld it and re-temper the entire crankshaft to maintain it's overall strength. Neither place would warranty the work beyond the first start. If you go with option 2 or 3 be 100% sure that the engine is in good strong running shape and that you are completely comfortable that it will treat you good for many a thousands of miles to come, otherwise the time and money spent is wasted. I went with option #1 after finding a relatively low mileage used engine in a wrecking yard for a fair price. Thousands of miles later, I have no regrets.

Yeah, can you post some pics showing more of what actually happened there?

The doors themselves remained unchanged throughout the entire year range of the WD21 Pathfinder (87-95) This also includes the Hardbody trucks (86-97) You can easily verify things like this by checking out auto body part suppliers such as CertiFit Check out page 191 (Pathfinder) and 185 (Hardbody) in their catalog. (PDF Pages 194 & 188)

Don't have inspections here either (don't even have emissions testing in this county) but mufflers are required here.

Yes it would work but not sure if it would have a big effect on the performance, depends on the muffler you have and it's current condition. However, it would not be legal, because afaik all area of the US require a muffler to be street legal. And lastly, don't expect the same sound from your truck that the V8 Dodge pumps out

Seems like some one (MWS maybe?) tack welded it in place after he had it set, just because of the fact that it was so close to the end. Don't recall any problems with doing that. Since the body and frame do not move independent of each other, it should never move once installed, so a weld should not be an issue either.

Yeah I held off on the lift until I had both those items, juat made life easier Alternatives for the TC is to cut and weld an extention in. Also I think the angle is wrong without a HB shifter, might have to cut the body away a little iirc. Others have extended and/or changed the angle so it does not lay down as far in 4L (look for Aarons writeup of Rami's lift.) But even with the HB shifter mine does go down farther in 4L than it used to. This is because I installed a 3" lift where as HB's only sit about 2in higher off the frame than Pathfinders do. The transmission shifter (stock) does a little of the same too, both cause some problems with the cup holders I have isntalled right behind them. It was never an issue before the lift, but it's one I can live with until I feel like making the changes.