RedPath88

There is very little definition along the trim lines (XE/SE) when it comes to what options go with what trim levels. Many XE's have LSD's and there are lots of SE's (including mine) that did not come with one

I picked up a set of nearly new (couple hundred miles) aftermarket cams that were purchased from 4x4parts.com (older part that they have replaced with ???) a few years ago. Once I got to installing them I did notice a difference throughout the RPM range and a rougher idle. As a couple people pointed out, I will likely notice it more once I get the headers installed and do something to open up the intake more. But that is typical, if you are going to upgrade the cams you also need to open up the intake and exhaust to take full advantage of the camshafts.

Although I understand your frustration, please understand that this had nothing to do with the forum from an official standpoint. This was a personal deal between Dan and yourself. I hope this does not taint your outlook on NPORA as a whole. No matter who you are dealing with, be it a Mod, Admin or a Member, unless the deal is sanctioned by NPORA (like the MrJim Fund was) it is a personal deal between two private parties. Now, that said. I really wish I could help you, but I have not heard from Dan in a long time... sorry

wtf... yeah I know you got it, nevermind

Thats right Well I can still get one for cheap

A few years ago when I was collecting steering parts I had one that was so stuck on that I just could not remove it while on the truck. So I took the entire box off and used the wrecking yards garage to try.. still no go. The senior tech there even tried, but the damned thing would NOT budge! I ended up buying the steering box, took it home and applied heat several times before it finally broke free. But it toasted the steering box seals. (I returned the box for yard credit) I had to beat the hell out of if with a small sledge and it took forever to get it off. Some of them are just best left on I have my old one (the one hat came off my truck) if you need it B

Google is your friend http://www.rocky-road.com/

Mine is not mounted the original way the upper mounts was designed but iirc you completely remove the stock bumper brackets and the ARB bolts to the frame where the brackets did. But the primary mounting point is at the fram using the two mounting holes (per side) where the factory tow hook is.

That is correct

The computer for an Auto will work with a Manual, but the general understanding is that you cannot use an ECU from an manual, with an auto.

Good News! How does the crate engine run now that your comfortable with letting it?

A mounting place and a different (shorter front to back) housing.

Yep they just twist, counter-clockwise, some hare really stuck on! My original was so stuck that I ended up using a pipe wrench on it before it would break free

The TM lift was designed for the truck, they took that into account when they made it. There are a number of trucks out there that have stacked drop bracket lifts (the TM lift) and SL lifts and I have heard little in the way of problems with them. Could there be a problem, sure there could. Sticking with the spec'ed shocks from TM would prevent that. Something else you could do (if no one can give you a solid answer of how THEY did it) would be to buy and install the lift, block it up and see how much is too much, then get shocks that limit it before it reaches that point. Or better yet, limiting staps rather than abusing the shocks with that duty.

The TM kit drops everything.. front diff, t-bar x=member, spacers for the rear springs and a drop bracket for the Panhard Rod

TM specs shocks for the kit and they are included if you buy it new. If your getting a used kit then just shoot TM an email and ask them Then you have a base number that you can add to in the rear NOT in the front

Good job But as B said, any more info on what the problem is exactly? I did a 3in BL & 3in SL and had no troubles

Yes, and if you add a body lift (2" or 3") then you would have 9-10"

I had a set of 31x10.5 BFG AT's mounted on the stock Nissan chrome steel wheels (15x6) and had no problems, you should be fine with the combo you have

Fair enough As with all things there are average results and then results at the extreme of both ends of the spectrum. After my tranny failed, I gave up the cash for Redline as well (as you said, dyno oil that meets our needs is getting hard to find) And as of now, so far so good

Why the heavy opinion?

Same thing crossed my mind as well, since it happened to mine a year or two ago. Burp the system and see if that solves it, but the next time your warming it up, listen to the fan, if should get noticeably louder do to the clutch locking up and moving more air, when you reach operating temperature. If it does not, then the fan clutch is histroy.

One other thing as well... Get "Recovery Straps" not tow straps, there is a difference and the extra spend on a quality recovery straps is well worth it

If you can afford one, I agree with the no substitute for a winch statement. If you can't then look at a HiLift with appropriate trail support gear If that is not an option, then a come-a-long is FAR better than nothing! I have always carried one (along with straps and a big heavy chain) and until my original one rusted to the point that I would no longer trust it, I carried two of them. The second one is in the back of the Pathy right now Had a friend bury his truck in an old military tank trap around here known as "Steadmans Hole" it took him 6hrs with a light chain, a short strap, a come-a-long and a 1500lbs ATV winch to get out, but he made it home for dinner that night! *he went to conquer Steadmans Hole by himself... a mistake several have made

That just "might" have something to do with the lower gearing and much bigger tires