RedPath88

I happen to have a hollow core, steel rod that I cut them off of, worked perfect. But as MY1PATH mentioned, the hardware store should have something you can use

Yes 31's up to 10.5in wide will mount on the stock 15x6 steel chrome, but that is at the extreme end of what will work. However, the frame sounds far more importnat at this point

Remember that you do not have to limit yourself to Pathfinder racks Look around the yard at all the SUV's you might find something that you like and can that be modified to fit. The rack on my truck is from an S10 Blazer, I shortened and narrowed it a little (which was simple) then attached it pretty much the way GrimGreg described

No need for a new topic to say restate the above, so I have removed the other thread (which is now the 3rd in this single discussion). This is part of the reason to many bad results come up when people search. Keeping things organized in fewer threads makes everyones life easier on the forum.

lol and kept the "i" config

Ok this really has me curious... an 87 and a 4dr? Typo I am guessing?

I am merging your two threads on this topic together. And as I mentioned in the other, it appears that Nissan did not use a knock sensor on the VG30i's. They started in 1990 with the VG30e versions. I just called a dealer to verify and they said the same thing. There is no parts listing with Nissan for a KS on Pathfinders equipped with VG30i's

On road it would only effect it if the hubs are locked, which they should never been on a true 4WD (not AWD) on high traction surfaces, anyway. CV's are the weak link in the front drive train and as fleurys said, they will go.

I have looked through other rigs but not found an exact match. Now that does not say that another one won't work, just that none are visually the same. No luck at Pick-A-Part, they had one TBI Pathy, an 89, but it was completely rusted out.

On that note, I am sure you checked the Classifieds here, but have you contacted Alkorahil to see what he can work out for new parts? GENUINE NISSAN PARTS I'm headed to Pick-A-Part in Tumwater in a few, I'll see if they have anything.

Glad to hear

Yep, AIV Box, might check the AIV Case in front of it too, I have replaced the Box twice with wrecking yard units and the Case once. Bucky's voided my warranty on my Muffler (a baffle came loose) because my original Box had a couple pin holes in the bottom of it. But told me that if I had them replace the AIV Box then they would also replace my muffler as a courtisy. They quoted me a $600 repair bill with a item. I called the dealer after that and iirc it was a $400+ item. I luckily located a "decent" one in a wrecking yard. That one also rusted out and has been replaced by another wrecking yard unit. Those are the only two I have found that have been decent, most of them are rusted through. I can keep my eyes open for you if you like.

Yeah swap the hoses a nunya said. It's kinda funny that this came up because Dowser just advised another member of this In the following thread Back Window Wiper Squirter Doesn't Work

Yes it's a second antenna for the radio. When I had my window replaced they specifically asked if my broken one had an antenna on it. Then explained exactly what they meant. When I got back to my truck (it was done while I was at work) and inspected the work, I noted that they had soldered the pigtail to the contact pad in the lower right corner.

The point they are trying to make is that there is a wealth of information on the site if you just take a moment to look around. As stated lockers have been covered in depth and none of it is "decades old." With just a little reading most of your questions can be answered and as a side benefit you will likely learn more about other aspects of your truck. Reading other threads on the topic also helps keep NPORA more organized and user friendly. As does continuing an existing thread if there is something that you are unclear on or believe was not covered well enough. Also, restraining attitude along with a little effort before expecting others too do it for you, will go a lot further with the people of NPORA, than simply saying "whatever" and creating a new thread on the same topic. *which has now been merged into this one*

Pin 27 on a 1989 VG30i (TBI) ESM is not the Knock Sensor, instead it is the Main Relay. As far as I know the TBI versions of the VG30's do not have a Knock Sensor. Can you fill in your profile, so we can better help you in the future? Thanks Please see: The Importance of Filling In Your Profile -**All Members: Please Read**

Good deal man Go to the Classified section and look through the Parts For Sale threads, if you don't find it there then post in the Parts Wanted area

Thats cool, if it works properly. I would not bet my safety on it until I was sure. Well, actually I would not bet my safety on it at all... I don't have an iPhone And I am going to move this to the General Forums, since it's not R50 specific

I also use rain-x, both the wipe on and the washer fluid and have no issues with it. Like you, I also live in a rainy climate.. just south of you, in Western WA

By dashboard lights do you mean... Instrument cluster illumination lights? Dash related illumination lights (this includes heater controls) All lights, including warning lights in the instrument cluster? Did they work then suddenly stop, or has portions of the display gone out over time? Have to pulled the cluster and/or heater controls to check the bulbs? All but one of my cluster illumination lights has been out for a long time now, but recently my clocks back light died. So I pulled the cluster last night to change bulbs and see what, if anything else may be causing it. Only one bulb was bad, but several of the light sockets were loose (including the recently dead clock back light). Problem was they were loose because the housing of the cluster is falling apart. It's old and brittle and the "locks" that the sockets turn onto have fallen to pieces, some literally dust. I temporarily fixed it, but it's just a matter of time before they go out again. A new cluster housing is in my future.

Been eyeballing one of them at a local yard for a while now... might have to pick it up now that I have seen how it will fit

Ok well this has gone off track of suggestions... Mike, does the water causing the problem have any coolant in it? Color/smell/feel? If not then it's safe to rule out the heater core/supply lines for now. Personally I would start with Adams suggestion and go from there, it that does not produce results. I had to have the windshield in my old Escort replaced, long story short the shop that did it did a lousy job and it leaked. Water on the floor was a symptom. It ran down the A-Pillar and firewall until it pooled and soaked the carpet. Only when I hit it with a hose on full blast would enough water make it through to show around the window. BTW, I ended up fixing it myself