RedPath88

Pinned in the How-To section of the Garage How-to: Cleaning your MAF Sensor Currently, no pics, but we are working to restore them

wow, something does not want you to go there

Sorry to hear man, but look at it this way... it's not a road trip, it's an adventure! Be safe

You might consider some of the spring options listed in my prior post, to help the rear out some.

Cheaper at Rocky Road Outfitters - They are a Powertrax Distributor http://rocky-road.com/lockright.html Richmond Gear

No problem, hope it's nothing major!

Do you have anything in the rear (lift springs/Ford Springs/JGCC/Spacers) ?

For the sake of reliability, that is what we recommend.. and for good reason. On the subject of clarity, maybe you can update your info to make it more clear as well. Cranking your torsion bars as you said you did, mean that you also have a 2.5-3in (don't know exactly what yours measures out to be) suspension lift

No one here hides the fact that a front SL on a pathfinder is "cranking the torsion bars" Arms alone will not provide lift, in fact the arms do not lift anything at all. They simply correct the geometry of the front suspension when the T-Bars are cranked above stock specs. Several members trucks are lifted without aftermarket UCA's. Can it be done? Yes Is it recommended? No Comment needed? - No Reply needed? - No Saying "They always read on NPORA that it can't be done" - Not true

Yeah, that's exactly what you did... BL + SL

Mode III - Stored Fault Code Reporting ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Use Mode III to retrive all stored trouble codes in memory. For V6: 1. Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine. All of the lights in the dash should be on. 2. For VG30i: There is a little plastic tab you pull off of the side of the ECU(facing the door). A small toggle switch is behind it with 2 positions, "ON" and "DIAGNOSTICS". Using a small screwdriver or tool, move it to the diagnostics position. The red and green LED's on top of the ECU will blink simultaneously. One time, pause, then 2 times, three times, pause...so on for each mode, 1 through 5. Mode 3 is the most commonly used mode and will yield the ECU trouble codes you need to figure out what's going on with your engine. For VG30E with slotted switch: Turn the 'diagnostic mode selector' screw on the ECU fully clockwise. The check engine light will go out. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise. 3. After it blinks both LED's 3 times move the toggle switch back to the on position. After about five seconds it will start to output out the diagnostic codes as with the 4-cylinder ECU. Note each code as it is displayed, the red LED flashing once for 10's, and the green LED flashing once for 1's. Meaning: One red flash and two green flashes means code 12. 4. To clear the ECU of any trouble codes, move the switch to the "DIAGNOSTICS" position then back to the "ON" position and turn off the key. 1986.5-1995 Nissan ECU Flash Codes(all engines) 11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor. 12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor. 13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. 14 Vehicle Speed Sensor. 21 Ignition Signal. 22 Fuel Pump. 23 Idle Switch. 24 Throttle Valve Switch. 25 Idle Speed Control Valve. 28 Cooling Fan Circuit. 31 ECM. 32 EGR Function. 33 Heated Oxygen Sensor. 34 Knock Sensor. 35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor. 36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer. 37 Knock Sensor. 38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2). 41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor. 42 Fuel Temperature Sensor. 43 Throttle Position Sensor. 44 ECCS Normal Operation. 45 Injector Leak. 47 Crankshaft Position Sensor. 51 Injector Circuit. 53 Oxygen Sensor. 54 A/T Control. 55 No Malfunction. 63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire. 64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire. 65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire. 66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire. 67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire. 68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire. 71 Random Misfire. 72 TWC Function right hand bank. 73 TWC Function right hand bank. 76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank. 77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit. 82 Crankshaft Position Sensor. 84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line. 85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit. 86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank. 87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit. 91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank. 94 TCC Solenoid Valve. 95 Crankshaft Position Sensor. 98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. 101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank. 103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit. 105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit. 108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit

Strange, both links take me to the same place, but yours has a cleaner URL. Edited my original post to clean it up

Whoa, time flies! I emailed with Jim Connor in late 2006 Anyway, "many years" before my contacting him, he sold the company to Jim Russell of Desert Steel/Russell Automotive Inc. in Lake Havasu City, AZ. This is them now http://www.dsmevents.com/

That could have just been a stock photo use4d by AC... that was done with 88pathoffroad's truck here, too.

WOW that great, thanks for posting! I emailed sometime ago with Jim Connor when a member hear turned up with a truck he had bought with the parts reinstalled. I remember Jim saying that he had sold the company... or was it product line, don't recall now, long ago and he "thought" that the guy was still making all of the parts. But as we know, the two state parts and obviously many others are no longer made. So now, it's time to find out if "they guy" was the owner of AC. Or maybe AC cloned JCR's UCA? I'll see if I can dig up the emailed between Jim and I again

Not sure what the cost for a cross-country trailer rental will be, but have you considered checking Craigslist or local papers classifieds for a cheap trailer? Every now and then you can find something decent for a really good price. Then you can swap tires, carry the 33's, pack the aquarium and any other things that you would have to leave behind due to space... and still possibly save on fuel

I'll support the Manual hub swap suggestion, to not only save on fuel, but also on wear and tear on the front drive components It sounds to me that they are simply either not tight enough or the wrong side.. but assuming that everything is right, as he considered tack welding the U bolts to the CL?

SteeevO @ Rugged Rocks carries Trail Gear spacers too http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/wheel-spacers-c-645.html

I tow a smaller, lighter trailer once or twice a month and it's nothing (combined trailer weight usually 1/3-1/2ton). But your going to have more weight and overall size. So the extra pounds and wind resistance are likely too make a difference. However, the big question will be how much? Personally, I would recommend that if you have a sway bar(s) put it on, because it can only help you. Especially if you get into some high winds and/or hard braking/maneuvering. If you don't have them then hopefully others here will have experience with heavier and/or larger trailers to offer you some input. Picking some up might be a preferred option. Maybe some one has a parts rig along the way that will let them go for cheap.

Fixed, Your "Log In Name" was correct, but when you entered your "Display Name" you had a slight typo. But no matter, it's been corrected

Yeah I had similar issues. First I fixed the wires, because the insulation had become brittle over time and was actually cracking and breaking off. Thinking that hey may have been shorting out, I replaced the sections of those, but it still did not solve the problem. Ultimately I had to replace the switch itself, which did correct my light issues

AT only as MY1PATH said. '94 FSM shows it right between the Temp and Fuel gauges.

If it has the hose fittings that pivot, those are a common place for leaks. Although it can be a pain to install solid fittings, I highly recommend that you do so, if you have the multi-piece one now. Check out tis tread for a it more info: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25955 oil relo talk starts, iirc, on page two Otherwise, you just need to get in there and check it out.

Are the pics permanent, meaning are they linked to an account that you may "clean out" in the future? IF so, please re-host them in a place that they will be safe! Agreed, placing the text in a solid colored box would work out the best. *cleaned out bump and request posts and pinned*