RedPath88

Nice GrimGreg, what material did you use and how noticeable of a difference did it make?

If he happens to own a 4cyl Pathfinder (which I don't think was an option anywhere in 95) or perhaps a diesel Pathy, then he is right... it's a chain. But your V6 has a belt and if you wait until it makes noise, then you might as well get a replacement engine ready to drop it now Directly from the 1995 FSM: If he still says otherwise (about your V6 engines timing belt), send him our way

The click is now coming from the solenoid itself, but only seem to have the problem (at this point) when the engine/bay is hot. So it must be heat related. Likely a sign that the starter/solenoid assembly is failing. But since it tests "good" on the bench at the store, it cannot be replaced under warranty yet Anyone know any good ways to stress a failing starter? Also, has anyone ever used a starter blanket (heat shielding) before? Results? http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/design-engineering-inc/component-specific-products/versa-shield EDIT: So it is in fact exhibiting "Heat Soak" symptoms now, going to try the blanket and see if that helps. If not, well the starter is covered under a forever warranty so...

Ok so much for that idea fixing it, it started again

Moving this to the R50 section, where it will get more attention

Fuse Block (94 FSM EL-7) [/url]

As it should, they are on the same socket in the fuse block, protected by a 15amp fuse EDIT: The AC is ALSO listed on a second 10amp socket with the Audio, Clock, Illumination Lamp and Power Antenna Also on a third one... another 10amp

Ever had the headliner out? There is nothing beyond the liner itself insulating the cabin from the top. And even less on the sides

Not normally, I have in the past but the norm is not like that at all for me. I have used Goodyear, NAPA, whatever Schucks sells and ? Who knows what other brands The one on it now I think is a Goodyear Gatorback and it has been running as is since I put it on... can't remember when that was exactly, but by looks, it's about time to replace it.

Nope, the stock fan clutch is purely operated by the heat around it. So it will cycle normally depending on under hood temps... but with the AC on, that my be a more frequent occurrence. The switch is located in the body latch, there is a common fix involving shimming it with washers.. explanation is on the forum, don't recall where though. A little searching should turn it up

How thick is that bracket? My main concern here is the strength of the mounting plate? To be exact... will it bend over time? The brackets included with the mounting kit are around 1/4in thick. Also, from the pic, it looks like the cylinder end is higher than what is normal.. does it bind at all? Take a careful look at how close it comes to the factory mount on the CL, that punched a hole in my original Ranho SS

You sure they are the correct ones? Replacements should have the upper mount (where it bolts to the hatch) reinstalled and non removable. And now that I think about it, the replacements that I got came with new ball stud/joints that you had to pop the cup onto for the windows mount.

Yeah they aren't meant to come apart, new ones come assembled with it. They are bolt in

The new relay is placed at the 87M/22E connection point. By eliminating a portion of the original degrading wire, and running power directly from the batteryonly using the short section of existing wire from connector 22E through 24E and to the solenoid, there is less resistance. This results in more power being delivered to the starter solenoid and allows it to engage properly. If your talking about the Interlock Relay (Connectors 52M on EL80-81 of the '94 FSM) then that is still used for the interlock circuit. But what formally sent power all the way to the solenoid, now just trips the new relay. The new relay sends power to the solenoid now, directly from the battery

Just had to do this on my truck, it started the single click/no start thing yesterday and quickly got worse. Simple to do, although I went about it a little differently, the end result is the same. But most important, every test start has proven successful

that was a long time ago! That grill has been sitting in my garage for several years

Ammonia is used to remove window tint, do a web search for "how to remove window tint" and you find lots of pages covering the subject. Searching "Ammonia window tint" also turns up a bunch of pages... such as this one http://www.tintcenter.com/articles/bt_removal.html

Another option would be in the regional section.

Call 4wheelparts directly when ordering, they can put any size shocks you want in the "package deal" I ordered a set of ES3000's long ago and had them replace the stock sized rears with a set that were longer (listed for a Toyota) to gain more downward travel on the rear axle. Still priced at the special they were running at the time (4 shocks + SS) And remember, that the fronts remain stock sized even when lifted.

I did this in my 88 for the same reasons you are considering All I had to do was cut a hole/notch in the roof liner for the bold to pass through (mounts already there) and slot the side trim panels so the belt could pass through and down into the sides where the retracting device mounts. And yes, those mounts are also there. I also grabbed the belt retainers on the side panels to keep the belts out of the way when the seats are down., there is a molded in spot for this to properly clip into, on the side panels as well. It was obvious that Nissan had planned for rear should strap style belts when they originally designed the WD21's

Yeah they are "marketed" only for the Hardbody, so that is how they are listed. But the 4wd HD and Pathfinders share the same from suspension design

Ok admit it, you bought a new one and are just passing it off as a job well done, cleaning it up No really, great job!

Jared's first outing and first stuck!

*Moving this from Pics and Vids to the How-To's*