RedPath88

Perhaps these will help in comparisons From the 1989 and 1994 FSM's

You can screw them into the fenderwell or just about any place you have room to mount them. Relays come with and without a mounting tab extending from the top. just as to see them t the parts store. Some come with wiring diagrams, but if you get some without, just do a web search for "12V relay wiring" or "pinout". Or something to that effect, and you will find lots of info , including pics, of how to do it

Pull the fender liner, might have to pull the fender. Is there a screw or nut on the top (of the fender)? If not then there should be something inside it. Only reference to the Antenna I found in the FSM is on EL-59. It shows it coming out the top, but does not say or show how.

Read this topic: http://npora.ipbhost...showtopic=24972 Here's a couple key posts from it:

I still recommend looking through a FSM before you head out, that way you go into it with an idea of what you are looking at and for. I don't know about Pathfinders, but my '88 Taurus had Auto Climate Control. Just set a temp and it would maintain it using the heat and A/C. It also had several sensors in the car so it would change the output vents to equalize the temp throughout the cabin (high/low, front/back) I absolutely loved it, but if the Pathy's have that, I imagine that you can bet on more electrical wiring and some sort of logic control module as well.

It's going to require, at the minimum the vacuum system, motors, control lines and any adapters required from a donor. Mostly likely you will have to pull the dash out in order to gain access to everything needing swapped. Depending on how the vacuum motors link to the climate control hardware, you may need the vents, shudders, etc from a donor as well. Something else that needs answered is, where does it get it's vacuum from? Is there a separate pump just for that, or ? If you have a FSM, you might want to start researching the two systems in there, get a good "feel" for the components and layout so you can get a basic idea of what might be required in parts and labor.

Also called wheel hop And the shorter the wheel base trucks have more of a problem with it... also lighter trucks. As a result, it's a fairly common issue with short bed mini trucks. And tends to happen more on high traction surfaces. But I am not sure if that is exactly what is happening in your case, as Pathy's have less of an issue with it because of the added weight in the back. Does the back end hop and tires bark when you accelerate hard on dry pavement? That's wheel hop. Yours sounds more like worn out shocks/bushings and such as B mentioned, rather that the characteristic wheel hop.

Start the engine. With engine running, pull the fuel pump fuse and let the truck die. This will relieve all the pressure in the lines from the pump. You can have a few rags or a towel or a plastic bag ready for when you pull the hoses off to catch what drains from the lines/filter. It would be a good idea to have some sort of fuel proof container/bowl to put the used filter in since it may have excess fuel in it And if you have the replacement ready then you can minimize the mess. Once the new filter is properly installed, reinstall the fuel pump fuse, turn the ignition to the run position. And after the pump stops running (it will run longer than normal) start it up and make sure it idles smoothly. Also, do this when the truck is cold, too lessen the risk of any fuel hitting a hot exhaust manifold

Yeah, you need a receiver Also check to see if any one is parting out a truck with one, or just has one for sale. You could put an add in the Parts Wanted section. I have one, but the shipping would probably make it not worth it.

Yep, it started here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5432 and continued here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5707

And a more work modifying the mounts to work with the PF body

Just a suggestion, Not everyone is going to click a link with no real description. If you add a bit, in your own words, letting people know that it's all about, you might find people a little more responsive

While checking the connections, don't just make sure they are correct and tight, but also check for water, grease or other fluids that might be causing problems with them. Make sure the connections or wires into the connectors did not come loose at the firewall/fenderwell for the O2. Might also check them at the sensor. You mentioned that it was melted? Check to see if the bare wire is exposed there.. perhaps it's just shorting out. And check those codes, sucks I know, but...

Exactly... sorta, different design actually. But the end result is the same. While I was at the wrecking yard pulling the TC Shifter from an '89 HB (Sadly it had auto hubs) I snapped a couple pics of the body mounts welded to the frames of a HB and a Pathy HB/D21 Mid-Frame PF/WD21 Mid-Frame HB/D21 Firewall PF/WD21 Firewall

To my knowledge... as far as anyone knows the front suspension on a WD21 and 4wd D21 are identical. When I had problems with a set of RC UCA's I spoke directly with SL (who is the real maker of them) and they knew what I was really installing them on and had no issues/concerns/etc with it. . . . . . . . To be sure, I just called a local dealer. The parts started life with two different part numbers one for D21's and another for WD21's, but they have since been superseded by a new part number good for both. He also checked the LCA's to verify, they did the same. He told me that this was not, and in many cases, is still not unusual for Nissan to assign multiple part numbers to a single item. Each part number specifically identifies the model of vehicle it's used on. But in the end, they are the same thing.

Yeah great news that everyone came out of it alright, and even better that you go the truck back

Agreed, Not only does the cup allow for a proper fit against the rounded bushing, but it also correctly supports it through the range of suspension movement... which is the whole reason they are rounded in the first place.

Nice work Scott Couple points to consider on the oil relo. I have the same one and have two recommendations. replace the pivoting hose adapters with solid ones, a bit more of a PITA to install the hoses that way, but they will not leak later on. (Although it looks like you may have already done that) Take some fine grit paper and a block and smooth out the filter gasket mating surfaces on the relo. I had some leaking problems until I did that. Yours does not look as rough as mine did, but I cannot be completely sure by the pics. Mine had some serious grooves from rough/poor machining at the factory. All those grooves end up being channels for the oil to flow through. If you find it leaks then, smooth them out with a little elbow grease and that should solve the problem. http://www.jegs.com/...750898/10002/-1

Sorry to hear, but sometimes you just have to make those choices. Your always welcome back here... get yourself another Pathy when you can

Yeah not so bad overall, keep looking and I am sure you will find a replacement hood if you want it gone. Otherwise, if you want to hide it, then the bug shield will do that. Or claim it as a battle scare and wear the badge with pride

That's great that your willing t give it a try And even better it they work out! Yeah some yards don't allow kids while some do. Those that don't claim insurance, but a local yard here in town (sadly they specialize in older vehicles and never have anything new enough for me to use anymore) said the insurance claim is just an excuse most of the time. The main reason was theft.. by teens and parents loading little kids with small parts. That was originally he said, how days insurance may be a legit reason.

If your simply refering to being the "first to install an X rack" sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but others have already done it

We'll see if O'Reilly keeps that program for the CSK stores. O'Reilly Auto bought CSK auto a while back (CSK is/was Checker, Schucks, Kragen and Murrays auto parts stores)

Scott, I agree with B on the right angle drill adapter. That alone should make life a lot easier. And the bits he's offering should make very short work of those studs

And how about we move this to the General Forums...