Rick13

I have those exact rims and just barely fit the 285/75/16 GY DuraTracs (32.8") - but I think they are a tad skinnier (tread width/section width) than the BGF AT's.

As a good friend once said to me, "Nobody wants to drive a raisin". Sorry about the damage though.

I tried to place my spring back in to a more stock location. I measured my friends unlifted spring and took some baling wire to the original spring mounting location and back to the spring. NOT very scientific. I'll be honest, I thought I could tell a difference when going from the super stretched out position (SFD) to the more stock configuration. Could have been just in my head though... Here is a sloppy picture of it's first loosely estimated location, I've changed it since then (after measuring my friend's rig's spring length):

While driving home from work yesterday I was thinking about this thread and wondered if a wheel became unbalanced. I know I had thrown a weight once in my old Jeep and my tire felt like it was bouncing while driving (definitely felt that in the steering wheel) until I got it re-balanced. Sorry, just another thought. Kind of on a similar note as PaMtnBiker.

Yeah, but if memory serves from the last time I looked those are low end 5-rated trails with 7-8 rated optional obstacles. I ran a ton of 5-6 rated trails with a 2" lift and 31's with open diffs and sliders. I just seriously doubt I'd ever see an R50 with those mod's on the optional obstacles on the trails you mentioned. It's those optional obstacles, that in my opinion, can make a trail a blast to run. I got tire of always being the one in my wheeling group to take by-passes, so on went the SFD. And Ouray is basically easy...it's beautiful, but most passes/trails are easy none-the-less. I was talking about trails more like Behind the Rocks (Moab) and Holy Cross (CO) where I'm quite positive I currently couldn't make it without breaking things or serious body damage. Any ways, my only point is that I don't think the SAS (or it's cost) are totally out of order. So if I ever reach the point that I'm bored or frustrated with restricting myself to the trails I'm running, I'll bet I'd consider a SAS. To each his own...

Dude, I almost spit out my drink on that one. Yeah, to each his own, but that's funny shtuff right there.

I agree that you should verify the type of rear spring adapter that your getting. Here is some decent information I posted about my rear spring decisions/experiments: Rear Coil Info

I had exacerbated vibration while braking at hwy speed after I went to 33" tires (I had 31's for many months after the SFD). I recently changed out my rotors (and pads) and the vibration is completely gone. I had suspected warped rotors so that was my reason for change out. Seems to have been my issue. Not sure why it was so noticable with the tire size change though - I never really thought it through. Any ways, just a thought.

I think this thread is kind of funny. When I was debating whether or not to buy a 2" coil spring lift ALL of my off-road friends recommended selling the Pathy and getting a better supported base rig (one that is truck based and/or dual solid axles and actually has choices in aftermarket vendors). I initially agreed with my friends/father-in-law and held off for a few months pricing other rigs. Eventually, I decided I really liked my R50 and wanted to see how it could do off-road with a little modification. Then, after 3 years of moderate trails, and getting frustrated watching guys with 4Runners (3" suspension lifts and 1.5" body lifts, run 33" tires) clearing all kinds of obstacles, I decided to look at other mod's or sell my beast and start anew. Well, one 4" SFD and 33's later, I'm content once again. Now, after hitting several 7 rated trails and one rated 8 obstacle, I started wondering just how far an R50 could be taken around the Rockies and Moab. I'm currently NOT considering a SAS, but I refuse to ever say again that further modification is out of the question. Every time I say that I end up with a new mod (much crazier than the last). So yes, my sanity can definitely be put in to question already... Just my

That's pretty awesome Andrew. Do you have a total count? Which kit was mine? It is a nice bit of clearance and based on what I've done with it, it can take quite a bit of flex/abuse.

Funny, I have a good friend with an XJ and was looking at his aftermarket wincher bumper. It looked like a pretty close fit to the front grill/surround of the R50 but I was too lazy to look at the mounting points. Can you guys post up what you did or are doing to make these fit?

Geez, showed it to the wife and even she said, "Oh no, that's not right". It's a bit upsetting to say the least.

Wow, that's awesome...from another 01 LE owner!

Couldn't remember and had to check my receipts - AutoAnything - 30% discount code and free shipping. Still very expensive if you ask me, but I decided to give it a try.

I went nutty when I had a 40% off many months ago and went with Baer Decela Rotors (cross drilled/slotted) and some EBC Green Stuff Pads. They are crazy good combo. Not sure about longevity of the pads, but I've heard good things.

Yep, but it didn't help that my rear axle had pulled pretty far to the driver's side on account of the PHB. I have a feeling that I would have gotten a lot less damage to the driver's rear fender flare if the rear were better aligned. I installed the 6.5" coils (cut down closer to just over 6") and the PHB drop bracket from KR Fabs. Even though everything is completely straightened, I can still get fender flare rub but it's typically only in an extreme tuck. The good thing is it no longer sounds like the back of my rig is ripping apart. So, thinking of what you might want to know...the rub on the rear fender flare was actually only on the front portion. The tire (when fully tucked) would hit the bolt heads on the inner portion (but only in the front). So if you are looking at the rear wheel from the driver's side, the outer upper left quadrant is what was rubbing (not the top of the tire as most people picture). So, I was just thinking that if I had adjustable control arms (and maybe a longer drive shaft), the problem might have been fixed that way. Here is a picture of a pretty good tuck and there is NO RUBBING: I think with another inch or two of tuck the front part of that tire would have rubbed the front portion of the fender flare. Just for reference, here is what the other side was doing:

And if I did things over, I would have gotten all 5 rims at once - I still have a stock spare rim with a 33 on it. So, if I blow a front tire, I have to technically change 2 tires instead of just one = lame. I may purchase a new rim soon, just waiting on a sale.

Basically, sorry, not describing things well today. The 285/75/16 on the 3.75" bs rims barely clear the struts...but they definitely clear on my rig. I have 0 deg camber on one wheel and very slightly positive camber on the other wheel. They will NOT fit if you have any negative camber with my setup. Even with the SFD I had to trim out the wheel well and bumper in the front, but I was well past the point of no return on this rig. 01Silva can probably better describe how much he trimmed for his 33's (I think I even watched a short video of what he did a while back). I just wanted to make sure I said something about the back flares rubbing. And yes, your description might be more accruate - it didn't just rub, its more like the wide pattern outer lugs caught/pulled at the flares. I almost went with 2" coil lift, NX4 strut spacers, wheel spacers up front, and 32" tires. I still think that is a seriously sweet setup (just my unsolicited opinion).

Just an FYI that I purchased the 3.75 bs rims when I still had the 31" BFG AT's. The decreased basckspace changed the turning arc enough to create significant rubbing at full lock. I had already trimmed a little when I purchased the 31's on stock rims, so I just trimmed a bit more plastic out front. BUT, please be aware that even after I put in coil spacers in the back (to help level the rake after the SFD) I almost ruined both rear fender flares. At full tuck, with 3.75 bs rims, on 33's, rubbing was ridiculous. I can't remember the last time I've heard tire rub out back since installing longer coils (6.5" lift) with higher spring rate (200 lb).

My 2001 R50 (LE) has an auxilliary transmission cooler. The previous owner gave me the original window sticker (can't believe what he paid for it brand new) and IIRC the sticker included it in the "Options" section under "Tow Package".

I ran 30.7" BFG AT's on stock 16x7 rims for 3 years. They cleared the strut fine. I did however get tire rub in the wheel well (at full lock in reverse and at full lock when full compressed) and I was running the 2" AC lift. I can imaging that running a similar size tire on stock backspaced rims with no lift might produced more clearance issues than I dealt with. You could look at the NX4 strut spacers to get the extra 1" up front. ???

Ditto on that...now that I'm on my second (and taller) rear coils springs. I was able to fine tune them with cuts and now I'm sitting fine (just enough rake and no drive-line vibration). Unless the WJ coil adapter is manufactured different than mine, I'm guessing that a 3" spring would be too short out back with a 2" coil plus the 3 or 4" SFD up front. I could have adjusted my camber bolts better after install (I needed a pair of camber bolts on one side), but I was taking it in for a professional alignment any ways. My theory on the KR Fabs SFD strut tower spacers is that my mechanic failed to rebuild my strut correctly...not his fabrication. Just thought I'd through that out there.

I like it! Yeah, that looks good and level.

Looked at mine today. They are IDENTICAL to yours. Kind of funny.

Oh, sorry. Hard to read and can't see pics on my phone. Doesn't seem right?!?!