Rick13

Back when I bought mine I swear the AC site said that these were heavy duty and intended for additional weight (aftermarket bumper and such). I think the ride will definitely be harsh when these springs are brand new, especially with nothing heavy to help put them into their "happy place".

I've jacked from under the rear diff countless times...so I sure hope it's OK!

Stoic, I honestly didn't grasp what was happening until I sat under my truck for 10 minutes. Even then, I remember thinking what I was doing felt backwards. My simple thought was that I wanted the valve to be "more open" to allow more fluid/pressure to be applied to the rear brakes and when my suspension was stock, this meant that the spring was stretched more. So, from my admittedly weak understanding of this system, that meant more tension on the spring that pulls the arm that opens the valve.

I think that's a really good post XPLORx4. The spring bracket location was not usable after my last lift so I used some small gauge bailing wire and tried to simulate a heavy load for the LSV valve/stopper (because it felt like my front brakes were doing ALL the work, not just most of it). I've adjusted it twice based on how it affected braking on snow/ice and think I have it fairly dialed in. Again, not very scientific method, I think XPLOR has it right.

Very nice. I really like how it turned out.

Thanks. Yeah, 12 hours of my life and $185 worth of steel, so I'm pretty happy. All sections are 3/16" steel but are easily mounted and removed by one person. I am wondering if it will stiffen the feel and give some added support to the front suspension. Also curious about how the extra weight will affect my ride (hopefully soften it up front). I like the thought of a little more aerodynamics also (not sure how much, if at all, it would help that though). Seriously, can't wait to test them out this summer.

Well, spent another 2 hours getting some more work done. Brought them home and painted then mounted them. I'll probably have to remove and take better photos some time, but was too excited after the paint dried so I threw them on quick like. Belly Skid: Front Skid: Mid and Belly:

I rotated my rack this week. I just loosened the bolts on the rack brackets and the linkage, rotated the rack, then placed some dense rubber washers at the top bend of the bracket on the driver's side. I then just cranked the bolts down. On the driver's side I did use 01Silva's washer technique. It held REALLY well and turns like a dream again.

Ha! Thanks a lot. It has taken me 5 years to get it to this point and I'm still chugging along with mod's as I go. I got my 285/75/16 (about 32.8 inches) at Tread Depot in August 2010. They had a flat rate/deal on shipping so all 4 were about $860 delivered to my house (IIRC). I still had to get them mounted and balanced, but I call that a pretty good deal. Based on what I've seen in the past year, I don't think I'll get them for anything near that ever again. You'd think they could have held the price given how well they were selling. I'm at about 30K miles and will probably sell them on CL when I reach 36K or so (cause it looks like they will still have at least 10-15K of useful tread at that point). Good luck.

Here's my ... Daily Driving All-Terrain: Yokohama Geolander AT/S All-around great everyday tire that seems to be able to handle a little bit of everything. I'm buying another set in March for my wife's SUV. Wheeling All-Terrain: Goodyear DuraTrac I consider it a cross btw an AT and MT because the center section is AT-like, the outer lugs are quite large and well spaced apart (which clears mud/snow), and the whole thing has factory siping. It is the best tire I've ever had for what I like to do.

I like when I leave my computer logged in and my kids post something. Little snots.

I like you.

Do you know the product/model number (or as Ironman indicates, "spring number") for your front springs? Something like NISS####? Thanks, just putting some specs together and seeing how they might compare to others.

Thanks and I was just making sure folks wanted to see this before assuming too much. When I go to mount them I'll take pictures of them off the vehicle and then after mounting.

Well, I wasn't sure I was going to post up, but I made so much progress last Saturday that I thought it'd be good enough to start a thread and gauge for interest. I've been toying around with making my own skid plates for the SFD/lifted R50 for about 4 months now. I've taken measurements on distances, angles, pre-tapped bolt hole locations, bolt diameters...and mocked up a front skid (with cardboard) that extended from just under the radiator to my Jackson Auto "Missing Link". After some careful consideration, I decided to try to partially build this myself with the help of a friend of mine that has made his own bumper, tire carrier, sliders, and skids. I ended up being a sorcerer's apprentice, but I did end up doing the majority of chop saw, metal cleanup, cut-off wheel, wire wheel, and even welded the new crossmember just posterior of the TX. It was actually a kick getting to see a vision and experiment become something tangible. Below is what it looks like currently (only a couple of photos, cause we were REALLY busy), but all that really needs to be done from here is drill some holes in the belly/mid skids and then paint and mount. Here you go... Modifying the JA Missing Link (trying to keep the angles as tight to the driveshaft/differential as possible (with some room to breath/flex) to retain as much ground clearance as possible: The new mounting point for the front/mid skids...we call it the "Yeti" (that's a joke for changing the Missing Link and for Denverites referencing Great Divide Brewing Company's Imperial Stout): And finally, with the belly skid in position (this was taken about 2 hours before we stopped working for the day). Hey, but at least you can see a couple of my welds (between the 1" square tubing). We decided to notch it for exhaust clearance (my friend capped/plated it): If there is enough interest, I'll post the final product pictures in a couple weeks (which is the next time I'll have time off work to finish this up).

Back in the day...wow, that got me. I think I used the linkage (below the steering column) off a 91 Accord from a local JY. Should look something like this when all is said and done (the primary reason for using this was the same shaft diameter/spline count IIRC). One thing I'd keep in mind is that you've moved the steering rack away from it's preferred position (basically in-line), so you may want/need to consider rotating the rack to help with the binding issue. Hope that helps.

So, not knowing poo about superchargers, I'm guessing that is specific to a 3.3L engine?

I have been running the drop-in K&N (oil) filter for over a year now with no issues. I cleaned and re-oiled it (just for practice) after 6 months and 1 dusty week-long trip through the desert and everything is working well. I actually thought I noticed a micron better throtle response and it sounds a bit meaner when I push it (like air rushing). Any ways, it was 01 that made me think it would be a cool mod. Still may do it some day.

Nope, sorry, I never modified anything with the struts/coils after the original 2" AC coils were installed. I'm still hoping for an experimental coilover before I have to replace these front springs! Ha! Fun to watch what you guys come up with though. I remember back in 2010 feeling like a bit of a guinea pig with my rear combination.

I could have sworn I posted this about 2 years ago, but couldn't find it in my rear coil/shock thread: Not sure if this helps anyone, BUT please keep in mind that these were researched back in Nov 2010...so take it for what it's worth regarding specs/prices.

I've had one of these in my garage for over a year now: http://compare.ebay.com/like/321057882042?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar Really not sure I'll ever install it, but when I bid on it on Ebay I won - so it was delivered to me for like $12. For $12 I'm just not sure how great it could possibly be.

I've had mine out twice when playing with 2 different sized rear springs. I actually removed the stops, placed them inside the longer coil springs, installed the coils, then remounted the stops. My thought is that if I can do it with springs in place, you can have it done in minutes with a new stop.

Agreed. How did it come loose? Did the bolt back out?

I think this is a good thread that we should add upon:

Thunderbolt has 15's on his 2001, but I don't remember his backspacing. I'm thinking it may be less.