Rick13

I like when I leave my computer logged in and my kids post something. Little snots.

I like you.

Do you know the product/model number (or as Ironman indicates, "spring number") for your front springs? Something like NISS####? Thanks, just putting some specs together and seeing how they might compare to others.

Thanks and I was just making sure folks wanted to see this before assuming too much. When I go to mount them I'll take pictures of them off the vehicle and then after mounting.

Well, I wasn't sure I was going to post up, but I made so much progress last Saturday that I thought it'd be good enough to start a thread and gauge for interest. I've been toying around with making my own skid plates for the SFD/lifted R50 for about 4 months now. I've taken measurements on distances, angles, pre-tapped bolt hole locations, bolt diameters...and mocked up a front skid (with cardboard) that extended from just under the radiator to my Jackson Auto "Missing Link". After some careful consideration, I decided to try to partially build this myself with the help of a friend of mine that has made his own bumper, tire carrier, sliders, and skids. I ended up being a sorcerer's apprentice, but I did end up doing the majority of chop saw, metal cleanup, cut-off wheel, wire wheel, and even welded the new crossmember just posterior of the TX. It was actually a kick getting to see a vision and experiment become something tangible. Below is what it looks like currently (only a couple of photos, cause we were REALLY busy), but all that really needs to be done from here is drill some holes in the belly/mid skids and then paint and mount. Here you go... Modifying the JA Missing Link (trying to keep the angles as tight to the driveshaft/differential as possible (with some room to breath/flex) to retain as much ground clearance as possible: The new mounting point for the front/mid skids...we call it the "Yeti" (that's a joke for changing the Missing Link and for Denverites referencing Great Divide Brewing Company's Imperial Stout): And finally, with the belly skid in position (this was taken about 2 hours before we stopped working for the day). Hey, but at least you can see a couple of my welds (between the 1" square tubing). We decided to notch it for exhaust clearance (my friend capped/plated it): If there is enough interest, I'll post the final product pictures in a couple weeks (which is the next time I'll have time off work to finish this up).

Back in the day...wow, that got me. I think I used the linkage (below the steering column) off a 91 Accord from a local JY. Should look something like this when all is said and done (the primary reason for using this was the same shaft diameter/spline count IIRC). One thing I'd keep in mind is that you've moved the steering rack away from it's preferred position (basically in-line), so you may want/need to consider rotating the rack to help with the binding issue. Hope that helps.

So, not knowing poo about superchargers, I'm guessing that is specific to a 3.3L engine?

I have been running the drop-in K&N (oil) filter for over a year now with no issues. I cleaned and re-oiled it (just for practice) after 6 months and 1 dusty week-long trip through the desert and everything is working well. I actually thought I noticed a micron better throtle response and it sounds a bit meaner when I push it (like air rushing). Any ways, it was 01 that made me think it would be a cool mod. Still may do it some day.

Nope, sorry, I never modified anything with the struts/coils after the original 2" AC coils were installed. I'm still hoping for an experimental coilover before I have to replace these front springs! Ha! Fun to watch what you guys come up with though. I remember back in 2010 feeling like a bit of a guinea pig with my rear combination.

I could have sworn I posted this about 2 years ago, but couldn't find it in my rear coil/shock thread: Not sure if this helps anyone, BUT please keep in mind that these were researched back in Nov 2010...so take it for what it's worth regarding specs/prices.

I've had one of these in my garage for over a year now: http://compare.ebay.com/like/321057882042?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar Really not sure I'll ever install it, but when I bid on it on Ebay I won - so it was delivered to me for like $12. For $12 I'm just not sure how great it could possibly be.

I've had mine out twice when playing with 2 different sized rear springs. I actually removed the stops, placed them inside the longer coil springs, installed the coils, then remounted the stops. My thought is that if I can do it with springs in place, you can have it done in minutes with a new stop.

Agreed. How did it come loose? Did the bolt back out?

I think this is a good thread that we should add upon:

Thunderbolt has 15's on his 2001, but I don't remember his backspacing. I'm thinking it may be less.

I got an official freight shipping quote yesterday and it was $379 (residence to residence). I keep wondering if it'd be cheaper to originate and deliver to business addresses. I don't feel like checking since that puts a damper on the total price for me.

I think this has been done before. IIRC because ofthe tapered/sloped lower perch on the Pathy and the slightly smaller internal diameter of the WJ coil, the coil will seat when under constant rear weight but will "slip" when flexing/going over bumps. I'm not sure if this is just an annoyance (noise/clunk) or if there is a true possibility of unseating/losing a coil. (My assumption is that longer WJ coils would remain seated since it takes a coil spring compressor to remove...at least in my case) I believe this was the whole reason for KR Fabs coming up with his original lower perch adapter. I originally had thoughts of grinding (delicately) the lower internal portion the WJ spring (so that it would fit the lower perch better and not want to slip upward) but decided that the adapter was pretty cheap/easy at the time. I'm NOT saying don't try this, just thought I'd throw some history out there.

I wouldn't worry about it, I didn't know ANYTHING about the sub-frame until 2010 when I started researching possibilities of lifting an R50 beyond 2-3 inches. Even though I know a lot more about it now (and even performed the fabled sub-frame "drop" thanks to KR Fabrications), saying "sub-frame" out loud has begun to feel like a 4-letter word to me...or maybe I just feel like throwing out a 4-letter word every time I say it!!!

I don't think they need to based on their solid front axle/link suspension.

A little lighting love: Driving Lights to replace my cheap HF pencil beams.

Be advised, rant to begin in 3, 2, 1... Just for the record (not arguing Rocky, cause I really like your ideas/experimentation), BUT I knew EXACTLY what I was doing with my front suspension when I decided on the AC 2" coil lift back in 2007. I had read about top-out (which honestly mostly occurred in the 1st year of being lifted and actually hasn't occurred to me once in the last year) The alignment was never a problem until the SFD (which only required another camber bolt on one side, the other was fine) I'm still a hold-out with my original auto hubs (of which I've only replace one CV in 5+ years/60K+ miles of having it lifted, and that original equipment CV was 10+ years old with 4+ years of lift/trails/snow/salt on it!!!) and I still get close to the same mileage as Thunderbolt on long excursions/interstate trips to Moab. In a nutshell, I wanted additional height, to fit bigger/more aggressive tires, in order to tackle harder trails (which I think may be a common theme for several of us on this forum). I never thought of the AC lift as "increasing performance" of the front suspension. Just figured this lift would give me a little boost and hold up better to additional weight of a front bumper/winch - which I'm STILL trying to figure out what to do and more importantly, where the money will come from to do what I want!!! End rant. Very sorry about adding to the portions snow4me, but I feel better now. So thanks. BTW your rig look awesome (an exact setup that I contemplated for 6 whole months before jumping at the SFD) and I can't wait to hear how it performs on trails! Seriously, something about an R50 on 33's that get's me a little verklempt.

No doubt "sitting pretty". That looks really slick. Hope you figure the camber out.

Holy 3WD batman! Makes me think you'd have to be careful with the torque you supply to the single CV...maybe if you keep that in mind as you run I guess. Any ways, just thought I'd throw my $0.02 and it'd be interesting to hear how this goes if you decide to proceed with this mod.

Sorry, don't mean to jump in half-cocked on this (cause I drive a open/open R50), but here I go. My thought is that you are correct that with manual hubs unlocked that it should drive normal, but I keep thinking this might only be an option for certain type of wheeling? I keep picturing this setup in my rig and I think it might drive me crazy. I've watched folks with selectable front lockers quite often and they basically have to drive completely straight while engaged and immediately disengage once through an obstacle. This makes me think that I'd have to run a trail in 2WD (cause our trails here have lots of switchbacks and tight turns which a front locked diff would be difficult if not downright dangerous to negotiate) and then hop out and engage my hubs every time I want 4WD and even then, I can basically only aim straight over an obstacle (which makes choosing a line and getting in the right position before an obstacle a little bit tedious/limiting). I also would hate to imagine how overheated my transmission would be since I'm assuming you'd have to be in 2WD High when not in 4WD with hubs engaged? Again, only imagining how this might work in my rig, doing wheeling like I currently do. Not trying to sway you either way. Hey, maybe I just don't get the concept and am totally off-base. So take it for what it's worth (maybe not much).

And on the six pack it says "Take a six pack home to the wives!" It really is a decent Porter though. and Thread Jack Off...