Rick13

My 2001 LE (leather, power, heated...) are nice. Seriously, subtract the heated/power and they one of the better, more comfortable seats I've ever had in a vehicle...wait, that might not be saying much if you knew my list of previous vehicles.

Please don't. If this thread makes it there then so would half my posts...

You could look here to get some good pics of what 01Silva did: Front Bumpers

I was thinking along similar lines. I'm guessing that you'd just disengage the hubs and check for the wobble doing whatever makes it wobble (specific mph, type of road, turning, braking...) and see if it's repeatable. Maybe that's not your question...sorry. My thought last night when thinking about this, was regarding whether the bearings weren't seated when the bearing lock nut was put back on. There is a procedure that seats the outer bearing (torque it to a spec) and then back it off to practically 0 lb-ft (IIRC). A proper "bearing socket" can make that really easy. If you don't have one of those, I think Adv Auto (or the like) might have a kit you can borrow.

Wow, that looks really good. I really like the color of the ARB. Strong work.

I'm not trying to throw more at you, but I had a wobble develop in the front several thousand miles ago. It always occurred btw 62-67 mph (yep, that exact). I first took it for a realignment (I have lifetime) and rebalance, but to no avail. So I was convinced something else was going on. I decided to pull, check, and then repack/replace my bearings (they looked to be in very good). I checked all my suspension components up front and my steering rack. I was honestly getting a little worried going on long trips/highway speed with my family/trailer in tow. So, I took my beast to a different shop (my home mechanics shop) and asked him for the best "wheel guy" to check them out. I got them back and found out that one wheel took a ton of weights but they said I was good to go. I thought for sure that it had worked but there was still a slight wobble at given speeds - had the balancing helped? Last week I got upset when if felt like the wobble was slowly coming back. I had 36K miles on my DuraTracs and had been planning on replacing soon anyways, so I got new shoes mounted this afternoon. The tech said they balanced easily - hardly any weights on the rims. I immediately drove to the interstate and plopped it right at 65 mph (where I usually felt the wobble all the way to the steering wheel and honestly through the floorboards and through my seat). There was NO WOBBLE - not even a hint. I'm cautiously relieved. Again, I just thought I'd throw it out there.

I LOVED the way mine looked for about 6 months post 2" AC lift (I think I had just over 2" up front and about 2.5" out back the day installed), but within 1 year things had really settled. So, are you telling us end-readers that we should experience no change in your posts?

Congratulations. Now, my advice...either cash-out all the money you've planned to spend on the R50 (and hide it good) or spend it quick on your build before it becomes "shared". That is all...

I've been reading and thinking on this one and tried to imagine me doing this in my garage. I think I'd install the 2" coils, remove my rear shock on one side, then jack up the other side of the axle just in till I see the coil (on the side without a shock) start to get loose, then measure the distance btw the upper and lower shock mounts. Thinking this would be a good estimate of extended shock length needed, no? Have I oversimplified? Did I totally miss something? Or am I just daft? Honestly, I'm tired from work, but trying to help...

I'd keep in mind "Alkorahil". I can't even remember if I ordered anything from him, but I've heard good things. Just another option.

I was going to make a rude comment about going back to your own section adamzan and leave us R50's to our "final words on" threads, but I like a lot of what you post!

Sorry, not exactly what you are asking for, BUT I have a 2001 LE and here are the 16x8 rims with 3.75" BS with 265/70/16 BFG AT's (30.7" tall) with a 10.6" section width and less than 9" tread width. My point, they were on the brink of sticking beyond the flares...but they didn't.

Sorry if I missed it, but just be careful of the backspacing of the rims to make sure they push the wheel out far enough from the strut to clear the 32" tire. 31's typically fit without issue (from my experience), but if you are planning on 32" equivalent tires I was afraid not to mention it.

I agree with the thexbrit. I went coil spring lift because my stock ones bottomed out when driving over a small gutter - so they were going away regardless. That, and some of us did all our lift modifications before a full (front & rear) spacer kit was available. Others might argue that if you are truly going to off-road the beast, then taller coils will provide more compression/extension than spacers. My thoughts based on personal experience (disclaimer - your results may vary): Front: I have the 2" lift coils up front and I'm not totally sure it provides any better articulation than stock springs with spacers, but that might be more due to the limits of our totally awesome struts than the type/length of coils used. Rear: I would bet if you compare a rear 4" spacer/2" coil lift to a pure 6" coil spring lift that the 6" coil will allow more total articulation [NOTE - maybe we should organize that and post it up in a pinned thread somewhere so we have some data to go with/against that theory] But if you are only going a couple inches, spacers are definitely cheaper/easier to deal with.

Being that Jimmy made this comment almost 5 years ago and he hasn't been on-line in 2-1/2 years, I'm not sure you'll get a response or explanation. Not being a jerk, just something I wanted to note so you aren't holding your breath.

Man, someone please correct me if I missed the boat on this one, but I SWEAR I remember being told by AC (like 8 years ago) that the Rancho 9000XL's I bought from them (for an arm/leg) were originally for a 1998-2003 Dodge Durango. The specs SilverPath posted sound close to what I had but I think his must extend much more than my Rancho's did - I thought mine only extended to like 25" or there abouts. Sorry I can't remember more, just trying to help...

I've done this twice myself (please read = that this is pretty easy to do) using a C-Clamp almost identical to the one you've linked to - it's pretty straight forward once you get in there. Good luck!

Just be careful with 32's clearing the strut. I would have had to go with wheel spacers to clear them - yes, actually had 32's test fit before purchasing my 31's.

I'm pretty sure you can install the manual hubs regardless, just may have to be a little careful not to twist the dial to "Auto" (or beyond) when hubs are not engaged. Just a thought.

I think 96Pathy and I have similar lifts/tire size/builds. I have some photos in my profile of my 2" AC on 31's and then the 2"AC + 4" SFD and 33's. Just an FYI that I decided to go with Jeep WJ springs (6.5" lift cut down to size) and some lower coil seat adapters (from Krypton Fabs) instead of keeping my rear 2" lift springs from AC and installing spacers.

Those look like a smokin deal. I was actually thinking about sourcing just the O rings for future replacement. I just contacted them today by email to see if they are available individually. I've found similar spec'd O rings at local hardware stores, but nothing exactly the same.

Just an FYI that I love my 2 off-road gas cans. What's cool are the different sizes/capacities and colors. They also pour quite easily with the flex nozzle and rear breather: Off-road Gas Can I have no stock in this product, just really like them and suggest them to those I know might be looking.

Thread-jack On Thanks for that info, I figured everyone must be dealing with this issue so I never brought it up. It does NOT disable. I've been in 4Lo in snow/ice and it pulses as I apply the brakes. Me thinks it's beyond my limited "fixin" capabilities to diagnose and repair, but I'd rather fix than try a work-around. Thread-jack Off

I've noticed since going to 33's that the pulse seems too slow to be effective anymore. I'm sure there is someone on here smarter than me who can explain why that has happened - like reduced wheel rpm with increased diameter and such...or maybe it's just in my mind. My real wish? I'd like a switch-mod to temporarily disable my ABS while wheeling. It's mostly annoying to me, but at times it can be downright frightening - like when I'm completely nose down in Moab trying to inch my way to a soft landing (so as not to "endo") and it decides to pulse for the final 2 feet drop into a rough touchdown. Sometimes I'd rather just slide smoothly than pulse. Any ways, just my thoughts.

That's what I was thinking also when I read the title.