Rick13

I agree that even piecing it together may be best, but if you just want to give the springs a little boost/help while your still saving, you might want to look in to the "Mr Gasket" coils spring spacers and/or the block type of insert. Spacer: Block Inserts:

Yeah, I think "they" recommend the outers because they take more stress (especially with spacers or rims with less backspacing) and they are a bit easier to get to (but not much in my opinion). If they look good, I agree a repack is probably all you really need.

I realize you probably want a quick answer, but there are a lot of threads/topics here that can answer your lift/tire questions. Most of us could fill a page on each of your questions, but you might want to try multiple searches on key words your questions and see what you've narrowed down to for your given situation. In short, about a 2" suspension lift with some 31" tires will give you decent lift - comparable to a stock 3rd gen 4Runner. I've heard the OME lift (about 1.75") is perhaps more ride friendly than the Automotive Customizers lift (2"). I put 29.5" tires on my stock Pathy within a month of buying her in 2004 and it ran well with them, not much additional clearance though. Just my 2 cents.

Sounds right. You may have said this and I missed it, but I always compress one side and then install the spring compressor. Then, when you let it go to full droop most stock and 2" lift coils just fall out. If you run in to trouble (like I did before I owned spring compressors), you can always remove the upper bumpstop. You just have to remember to place it back inside the new coil BEFORE placing it in position. Just my thoughts.

Congrats and welcome.

Glad you are OK along with everyone else. I'm in Littleton and interested in your ARB. I'll PM you.

Very nice build. Really like the tire size. I had great customer service when I did mine, but that was kind of way back in the mix of SFD's. I also had issues with the steering linkage, but he changed the design a couple years ago for the newer kits so not sure if I can help with what you have. I ended up going the old fashioned way of pulling a steering spline shaft/knuckle from a 91' Honda Accord (IIRC). My sister lives in Billings. If I ever see myself heading that way with my beast I'll PM ya. Hey Silvapathy, my bumper is about to fall off and I'm most likely going to go with your look this fall.

OK, just spent the last 15 minutes looking at your pics. I'm not even sure what to say. What a PITA though. I'm just trying to get a clear picture of what was intended with the bolt hole locations in the bracket and the plate itself. So, is it possible to attach the bracket to the skid (hand tight, but still able to reorient it's position), place the skid in to mounting position (as if you were going to bolt to the center skid, and then rotate the bracket to see what it might line up with? My thought is that you might get a better idea of what they may have intended. My last thought...is it possible to mount the bracket on the top side of where the gas tank bracket? It doesn't seem logical to me from a "strength" perspective, but wondered if that made things "line up". I thought of this when looking at how long the 3rd bolt is - that's a doozy from your first photo which made me think it might have to reach through something(s). Man, IDK, that's pretty jacked if they sent you something that won't bolt on and needs customization. That might just light me off.

Yep, long flathead screw driver from the top right in to turn the gear. I've had to do it too many times (to many lift variations) and will be doing it again to fine tune my driver's side that I've been living with for about 3 years.

Favorite tire is the GY DuraTrac (great for wheeling, great in snow, and compliant in most other conditions). Tons of stock SUV's/trucks all over Colorado that run them. Favorite all-around AT is the Geolander AT/S (serious good tire for most conditions, but probably not the best for true hard-core wheeling). Not sure of the size though. I used to have all kinds of sizes memorized from stock height through the 2" AC lift, but I've found recently that I just can't think smaller than 33's anymore. That part of my brain is gone. Welcome back!

Can you grab them with a basic wrench? They shouldn't be too torqued on there. I've removed these multiple times and have had trouble with one screw - it's almost "stripped". EDIT - was picturing grabbing it with a needle nose pliers or similar.

My apologies for stealing this, but it's one of my favorite signatures on this forum:

I've read about those also, but I believe that originally the modified Bilsteins (with an insert) had a part number that ended in "-mod". In fact, I think I originally read about that on PCOA quite a few years back. I think the part I linked to is the basic strut without modifying/lengthening for a lift. No big deal, just always like to weigh all my options. I'll keep quiet now.

Not trying to threadjack, but I had also seen these. I just thought they would be way too expensive: Bilstein B6 And no, the picture in the link is NOT the actual photo of the product. Here is what I believe the product looks like. Any ways, just curious what people are thinking of doing now that I'll be on my 3rd set of struts. Honestly, these KYB rode better than my Rancho RSX struts, but they did NOT last as long. Then again, my wheeling has been changing from more expedition/exploring to more true wheeling, so maybe that's my problem.

I had seen this recently while researching for other strut options (I seem to have blown yet another one) through the Australian Ebay - linky. Was going to do some more research (email/call them) to make sure these are what I think they are (and actual extended strut), but thought I'd post up just cause it seemed to fit well under this topic.

The 9000XL were really nice shocks when I ran them. I was surprised at how much the valve adjustment could make to the ride.

It really looks great. I've actually said it to multiple people that I think 35's make a 2" AC + 4" SFD really look right. OK, so here are my questions (sorry, just always thinking about my own options): Rim width and backspacing? Spacer size? Have you flexed yet? Rubbing out back? Much trimming up front? Much bump steer? What gears are you running? How's the acceleration? Seriously, it looks awesome. Maybe it's my 2nd beer speaking here, but 35's are where its at!

Holy poop stains! Well, according to the "Defect Notice" my Pathy (manu'd in May 2001) isn't involved. So I guess I don't have to worry about explosive metal shards striking my passenger during an accident with airbag deployment? Always worries me when a recall is super close to what I own, but doesn't include it. Think I'll swing by the local stealership and have them check it out.

Yeah, it can be a PITA to get a 33" on a steelie up and down, but I've been doing it for years now. I use both hands to prop it up above the rear window and then step on my back bumper and heave it up and in. I usually have quite a few things up on my roof basket (shovel, axe, jerry cans...) and I've really only noticed a 1-2 mpg difference at most...but I drive like a grandma so take it for what it's worth. I fit a 30.5" tire in the stock location and it was tight, so I always thought a 31.5 (or so) would actually fit but make it tight. If I could fit my 33, I'd much rather keep it down low for COG reasons as stated above.

I didn't jump on this because I've been talking to a "local" shop about one of their XJ winch bumpers being modified (mounting points) to fit the R50. I may actually pay him a visit this summer because the cost looks to be much lower than Calmini, ARB, TAG...and I don't have to pay shipping. Here's a looksie - If this actually works out, I'll be sure to post up. I'll also talk to him about the potential to save the build specs in case there is interest outside of just me. We'll see though, still lots to do on my end, so no one hold there breath on this.

Well, at first, I was like, "Welcome" (to the SFD world). But then, I was thinking...you should NOT be having that type of problem with only a few inches of additional height/change in angles. If it were me, I might actually try a Advance Auto/Orielly CV just to see if the raxles (sp?) have something that's just plain unique to them. But don't do it just because I said that, I'm quite unique in my approach to stuff.

I think you head south off of 152 and then through the town of Hollister. I've been there a couple times when I lived in Fresno. Yeah, have fun and take some pic's please.

Can you pull the NX4 strut spacer? If the problem is with the angles/geometry of the new axles, this might lessen the effect and narrow the search.

May not be any help here what-so-ever, and I realize you said it was only at a specific RPM (not vehicle speed or amount of throttle) but these are my first thoughts for a shudder-like feeling while driving... Tires/wheels in good balance? Are your wheel bearings in good shape or had the outers repacked recently? (Or maybe you can at least make sure they are properly seated) New ball joints look OK? And are all front suspension and steering components properly secured/torqued? Motor mounts in good shape?

This has been tried and it was found that the inner diameter of the WJ coil was slightly smaller than the pathfinder stock coil. So it could actually "seat" when under load but would unseat (shift up) when the load was lightened. That's why Shift220 came up with the coil seat adapter. I'm NOT saying it can't work, but just know that the pinned Sub Frame Drop thread has this topic in there if you want to see what was actually discussed/tried. I think I posted my thought of grinding out just a minute portion of the inside of the lowest coil wrap, but I went with an adapter instead. I had concerns of heating the coil too much when grinding and possibly messing with the integrity of the spring itself. I also didn't like how the upper portion of the cut WJ coil doesn't sit flat/flush against the upper perch and didn't want to see that on my lower perch as well. Hey, just my