Rick13

I wish my Pathy liked to fish...it just can't cast out very well. Seriously though, nice pics.

I used 2 "quick fists" to attach it to my Yakima rack. IIRC they are intended for mounting fire extinguishers (and the like) but I liked the price difference compared to the Yakima rack attachment: I like that hitch mount...I may have to make me one.

Just a quick one from my experience 3 years ago... Local Costco - wouldn't mount/balance because I was way over the recommended tire size for my vehicle (they would let me order/purchase from them though). Local Discount Tire - wouldn't mount/balance because at the time I had spacers on my front hubs (manager said they "wouldn't deal with those") My local shop (that is owned by a personal friend of mine) quoted me $195 more than my deal with Tread Depot. I showed him my online quote and he said "Holy carp". So, my one week of research/questions made the decision quite easy back then. I'll be doing the same research again this spring, but I'm really hoping that my local DT will price match and mount balance since I don't run spacers anymore. I agree, would much rather go local, but if it means I'm going to save almost $200, I will definitely order on-line again. Sorry, just wanted to clarify that I am NOT a "on-line" only buyer - especially for something as important as tires.

I hate mud. I'd rather "snow bash" then "mud bog" just to avoid the clean-up alone. Good luck with that alternator albino.

My phone is killing me on the double posts/quotes - sorry, deleted redundant post.

I don't know, but I purchased a set of tires from Tread Depot about 3 years ago when I had a free shipping code and a $60 Goodyear mail-in rebate. It made my 33's quite the deal at the time. I have yet to see anything like that recently (and I'm due for new tires in the spring). Tread Depot was awesome to deal with and I got my tires in like 3 or 4 days from order. The only concerning thing was that the UPS guy just rolled the tires out the back of his truck and on to my driveway - good thing I was home I guess? Next time I ordered (for my wife's car) I had them delivered to the shop who mounts/balances for me - I just called them and let them know when to expect the shipment. I'd also like to know what people think on this since I'll be installing new shoes in about 5 months.

I like it. Clean looking. Hey, if you decide to reshape and don't have a heat gun, I bought a Hazard Fraught (Harbor Freight) heat gun for $12 dollars a few months ago. I keep finding things to reshape/shrink wrap. Might be worth a try.

I started on my rear hatch BECAUSE of what I researched/read about the WD21's...which lead me to check the door switches next. Sure glad I could find the write-ups - thank you. I hope this is similar to Karmann's problem.

I had this a couple weeks ago. I found out by manually checking all my door switches one at a time and found out my passenger door switch was not aligned with the door frame (too many people use the armrest/handle to get in to my car). I just turned the dome light to "Auto", opened each door one by one, and depressed the switch of the open door to check if the light went off. Easy for my simple mind. Just an FYI - I have temporarily duct-taped a couple thick flat washers to make the switch fully depress (while I figure out how to fix it permanently).

I've pulled a 1700lb fully loaded popup trailer up/down the Rockies every 4 weeks or so this summer. I live at 5800 ft and have pulled it up/over a couple 10000+ ft passes. It definitely bogs down and kicks to lower gears fast with 33" tires and my stock 4.3 gears, but she still gets the job done. If I lived a sea level, had stock diameter tires, and my tow package I don't think I'd worry unless I got well over 2500lb...even then, I'd probably be most concerned with stopping (trailer brakes help me right now).

So I comment like 4 times on this thread and NEVER looked at your build...don't ask, I have no excuse. Looks great, nice build. BTW, the only thing I don't like is that dumb looking TJM bumper. You should sell that.......maybe to someone in Colorado?

Here is what I've been running for a couple years now: ProComp ES9000 (Part #929500) Extended - 29.5" Compressed - 17.5"

No, I believe if you measure from the fender/flare that the rear should be about 1" taller than the front - it's been a while since I looked at those specs, but that' what I recall. A 1" spacer shouldn't make a stink bug stance unless your front springs are sagging. That's why I showed the spacer and the block inserts. The block inserts keep the spring from compressing as much as they would like to, but they really don't change your ride height (unless your springs are beyond sagging and stay in a pretty compressed state). These may harshen the ride a bit, but might help you from bottoming out which I figured was your biggest concern. Really, with how cheap and easy the block inserts are, they'd be what I'd try first.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=mr+gasket+coil+spring+spacer Kind of a joke there, but seriously, IIRC these are pretty universal parts. I think I bought the coil spacers on Amazon and the block spacers at a nearby Advance Auto. The coil spacers I put beneath my coil springs (btw the springs and the seat/perch). When I had these it took more time to get my jack out than to insert them. I ended up putting them on the top of a modified Jeep coil spring a few months later and liked that much better - I think it dampened sound more than the old stock spring isolator. The block inserts I used for about a week but found that they will fall out when wheeling (specifically when at full droop on one side). For these I just jacked up from the subframe to get the coils to release a little then took a wrench and twisted them btw the coil wraps (at equal spacing around 2 wraps directly in the middle of the coil spring). Hope that helps.

I agree that even piecing it together may be best, but if you just want to give the springs a little boost/help while your still saving, you might want to look in to the "Mr Gasket" coils spring spacers and/or the block type of insert. Spacer: Block Inserts:

Yeah, I think "they" recommend the outers because they take more stress (especially with spacers or rims with less backspacing) and they are a bit easier to get to (but not much in my opinion). If they look good, I agree a repack is probably all you really need.

I realize you probably want a quick answer, but there are a lot of threads/topics here that can answer your lift/tire questions. Most of us could fill a page on each of your questions, but you might want to try multiple searches on key words your questions and see what you've narrowed down to for your given situation. In short, about a 2" suspension lift with some 31" tires will give you decent lift - comparable to a stock 3rd gen 4Runner. I've heard the OME lift (about 1.75") is perhaps more ride friendly than the Automotive Customizers lift (2"). I put 29.5" tires on my stock Pathy within a month of buying her in 2004 and it ran well with them, not much additional clearance though. Just my 2 cents.

Sounds right. You may have said this and I missed it, but I always compress one side and then install the spring compressor. Then, when you let it go to full droop most stock and 2" lift coils just fall out. If you run in to trouble (like I did before I owned spring compressors), you can always remove the upper bumpstop. You just have to remember to place it back inside the new coil BEFORE placing it in position. Just my thoughts.

Congrats and welcome.

Glad you are OK along with everyone else. I'm in Littleton and interested in your ARB. I'll PM you.

Very nice build. Really like the tire size. I had great customer service when I did mine, but that was kind of way back in the mix of SFD's. I also had issues with the steering linkage, but he changed the design a couple years ago for the newer kits so not sure if I can help with what you have. I ended up going the old fashioned way of pulling a steering spline shaft/knuckle from a 91' Honda Accord (IIRC). My sister lives in Billings. If I ever see myself heading that way with my beast I'll PM ya. Hey Silvapathy, my bumper is about to fall off and I'm most likely going to go with your look this fall.

OK, just spent the last 15 minutes looking at your pics. I'm not even sure what to say. What a PITA though. I'm just trying to get a clear picture of what was intended with the bolt hole locations in the bracket and the plate itself. So, is it possible to attach the bracket to the skid (hand tight, but still able to reorient it's position), place the skid in to mounting position (as if you were going to bolt to the center skid, and then rotate the bracket to see what it might line up with? My thought is that you might get a better idea of what they may have intended. My last thought...is it possible to mount the bracket on the top side of where the gas tank bracket? It doesn't seem logical to me from a "strength" perspective, but wondered if that made things "line up". I thought of this when looking at how long the 3rd bolt is - that's a doozy from your first photo which made me think it might have to reach through something(s). Man, IDK, that's pretty jacked if they sent you something that won't bolt on and needs customization. That might just light me off.

Yep, long flathead screw driver from the top right in to turn the gear. I've had to do it too many times (to many lift variations) and will be doing it again to fine tune my driver's side that I've been living with for about 3 years.

Favorite tire is the GY DuraTrac (great for wheeling, great in snow, and compliant in most other conditions). Tons of stock SUV's/trucks all over Colorado that run them. Favorite all-around AT is the Geolander AT/S (serious good tire for most conditions, but probably not the best for true hard-core wheeling). Not sure of the size though. I used to have all kinds of sizes memorized from stock height through the 2" AC lift, but I've found recently that I just can't think smaller than 33's anymore. That part of my brain is gone. Welcome back!

Can you grab them with a basic wrench? They shouldn't be too torqued on there. I've removed these multiple times and have had trouble with one screw - it's almost "stripped". EDIT - was picturing grabbing it with a needle nose pliers or similar.