Rick13

I think that's a very nice write-up. Always nice to see these go up in the air a bit. Have fun in Ouray (one of my favorite places on earth).

Me still thinks 2: http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-parts-r50-1996-2004/genuine-nissan-parts/exhaust-cooling/208-catalyst-converter/-c-4700_4701_4724_4726.html But I'd love to see the pic's of 4!!! It's not because I don't believe you, I've just never seen it before. BTW - mine is a California model...bought and drivin there for it's first 6 years of life.

Could someone take a photo of the 4 cats please? I've spent quite a bit of time under my rig and I've only seen 2. Agree with the EGR thought - the lower combustion temps of the recirc keeps less NOx from forming.

Yeah, I've read about that guy...definitely not one to trust. I'll talk to my 3rd Gen T4R friends (that's who I wheel with most of the time), most of which have NOT done this mod. I remember one of them talking about not wanting to gulp water from the bay on crossings, but I don't remember them saying that it had a replaceable plate.

I think changing a CV is a great first wrenching project. Unbolting the lower control arm can make it a bit quicker. I changed one in about 45 minutes and I am in NO WAY an experienced self-wrencher. Keeping the original and rebooting I'd also recommend. I don't think the "core charge" is worth giving it to a parts store. Also, I've been running the GSP for some time now and have been through some of the toughest wheeling my vehicle has ever seen...and she's still holding strong. Just throwing that out there cause the price is definitely right, especially with a 20% discount code for Advance Auto or the like. Just my so take it for what its worth.

It flexes quite well for what it's worth, though I've never really tested the full flex (without a shock) to see how much it might be limiting me. I got a killer deal through a special discount at 4 Wheel Parts (a place I really don't like a whole lot) so that was really why I went this route. If you hadn't read about it before now, just be aware that you'll have to insert a bushing/sleeve in through the upper shock "eye" in order for the upper bolt to fit snuggly (otherwise there will be quite a bit of play). I helped a friend with his lift and I found a perfect insert at Ace Hardware.

My ProComp ES9000 have held up well. It's been a while and I'd actually have to check my own post to verify, but I think the part number was 929500. I actually borrowed that shock idea from at least a couple other guys on NPORA who had gone SFD before me.

Thanks for the reply and photo. Wow, you have tons of room (actually more than I have with my 285/75/16). Makes me want to check tread width spec's on 305's next go round. So, the NX4 spacer, did you purchase the middle mount spacer (btw the upper coil spring and the upper top plate). Whenever you get a chance, I'd love to see the stance from the front or back. I'm totally curious now that I see your setup.

I've got nothing against the QX4 and have seen some pretty sweet ones (like Michigan Ave and someone else but can't remember the screen name) but I do really like my LE. Here is a description from Autoworld: Technically advanced yet simple to operate - two hallmarks of the Infiniti QX4s unique All-Mode 4WD system when it was introduced in 1997 and which keep it unchallenged two years later as the most sophisticated all-wheel drive design available in North America today. Derived from the advanced ATTESA E-TS all-wheel drive system used in the high-performance Japanese-market Nissan Skyline GT-R sports coupe, the QX4 system was developed to enhance traction and stability in everyday driving conditions, while also performing equal to or better than traditional 4WD systems in rugged off-road conditions. The key advantage of the All-Mode design over conventional systems is its combination of fully automatic, seamless operation, requiring no driver intervention and driver override, yet still allowing manual control as desired. The system offers the driver the choice of 2-wheel drive, 4-wheel drive or "automatic" setting, in which the system instantly distributes torque to the front wheels - in the precise amount that is required to restore traction only as required - and then returns to rear-wheel drive operation. The result is optimal traction in all conditions, while improving fuel economy and enhancing cornering capability. It is a totally flexible system that makes "average" drivers feel comfortable, while at the same time rewarding the driving enthusiast. All-Mode 4WD System Hardware The heart of the All-Mode 4WD mechanical system is a wet multi-plate clutch in the center differential. Managed by an electronic control unit, the multi-plate clutch precisely and instantly apportions the right amount of torque for the driving conditions to the front and rear axles. A critical aspect of the system is that the multi-plate clutch provides infinitely variable torque transfer as opposed to the limited pre-set "steps" of adjustment typical of other systems. The amount of torque apportioned to the front wheels depends on two factors. First is the amount of wheel slippage detected by the control unit, such as may occur when the vehicle is traveling on a dirt or icy road (wheel slippage is determined as the difference in speed between the front and rear driveshafts). The second factor is throttle opening. All-Mode 4WD (when in the AUTO setting) also transfers torque to the front wheels during initial acceleration (more throttle opening means more torque is distributed to the front wheels). For rigorous off-road conditions, an optional limited-slip rear differential (LSD) further enhances traction. LSD provides even greater traction and control in the most challenging driving conditions. All-Mode 4WD System Software Governing the QX4's All-Mode 4WD hardware is an advanced computerized control unit. This unit gathers information from front and rear driveshaft sensors (to determine wheel slippage), a throttle position sensor, an engine rpm sensor, a transfer unit lever selector, and the Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) control unit. The control unit continually compares the data and automatically selects the right amount of power to be transferred to the front and rear axles to achieve maximum traction. In the event that front and rear wheels are slipping, the greater amount of torque is directed to the axle with the least amount of slippage. A pair of controls provide simple and effective operation: An instrument panel-mounted drive mode display switch used to select automatic or manual operation, and a floor-mounted lever which engages and disengages low range (4Lo). This allows drivers the opportunity to choose the drive mode most appropriate for a particular driving surface.

Hate it !!! Seriously though, made me take a second glance - our colors are really close so of course I think it looks awesome. Would you terribly mind taking a photo of the tire clearance from the struts? That is one of my favorite sizes of 33's and I thought for sure it wouldn't fit with a 3.75" bs wheel (16x8). From my limited knowledge, I don't think the stabalizer bar will help your centering issue. To center the wheels in the wheel well you probably have to think about adjustable trailing arms (longer), but I'd be concerned with driveshaft issues (if the axle gets futher away from the TX) and upper/lower coil spring perches lining up (if you rotate the axle so it lines up with the driveshaft better)....but again, this is all coming from a weekend mechanic. Or were you talking about centering them under the vehicle? If so, I had to get a panhard bar drop bracket to recenter them from right to left. Super excited about your tire size selection though, way to go!

Yeah, but rock crawling isn't my hobby, the Moab comment is what got me. I've been all over Moab over the past 7 years. In fact, in the past year (3 long trips) with the SFD on 33's I haven't seen a lot to turn me away (except for true carnage trails that give custom buggies trouble). Any ways, it's always nice to be one of the unique rigs on most of the trails around here and Moab. My point = aftermarket may suck, but the fact that I can hit about 95% of ALL trails in the Colorado Rockies and a good 80% of all Moab trails with my current setup makes me get a bit defensive regarding it's abilities. Any ways, to each his own. And now I'm tired of talking about it. Gotta get ready for another run to Moab in 14 days.

Yes, please, whatever you do, don't pick an R50 to do ANY this... Rockies - 6 Rated Obstacle: Moab - 7 Rated Optional Obstacle: Moab - 5 Rated Optional Descent Line: Moab - 7 Rated Optional Ascent Obstacle: Moab - Steepest section of slickrock in all of Moab 4x4 trails: ...cause it just won't make it. That would just be It may not be the smartest wheeling choice, but sure love it!!!

I agree that there is limited aftermarket support (and I've even personally complained about it), but given the IFS (and maybe more specifically, the struts and not a coilover) and unibody design, it doesn't seem like the vehicle was designed for aftermarket options in regards to suspension/body lifts like other SUV's in it's general class. So, the small number of coil spring lifts (and their limited height) and the single sub frame drop manufacturer has at least given R50 owners the opportunity to be competitive with a 3.5" susp lifted/1.5" body lifted T4R. And now, watching a few owners running tires over 33" and even some SAS'ing their R50's has gotten me a little curious as to where the modification bug will stop with our vehicles. Also, although I'm not a big fan of the ARB or the KMA winch bumpers (or even the KMA rear bumper/swing tire carrier), I'm glad they are out there. Again, not really disagreeing, but just thought I'd put a twist on it.

I'd be carefull with that combo. My 285/75/16 are about 11.3" in tread width and barely clear the strut with the 3.75" bs. And yes, without the SFD my rim/tire combo would have rubbed the snot out of my both front and rear wheel wells/fenders/flares...flare removal and trimming would have been in order I do believe. OOPS - BTW OP, your rig looks really slick. Nice setup.

Nice. What kind of DayLighters did you go with? (Fog, Driving, or Long Range? Wattage?) Do you like 'em?

This scares me a little. And I'm not saying this to be a horse's backside, not at all. My point is that I don't know a whole bunch about wrenching, but even I know about camber bolts and how to adjust them. I'm worried, NOT about you, but about your alignment man. With such a small amount of coil lift within the strut, I can't imagine that they'd be very far out of alignment. If I were you, I would purchase a set (like the ones linked) and have available for your alignment guy. If you need them, you should only need one bolt per strut. Then, if not needed, return them unused for your money back. (Moog Camber Bolts (Advance Auto) Here is a simple diagram of how they work: Please (anyone) post up if you have a different take on this.

Pretty similar to what's been posted. After a lot of farting around with different pressures (btw 26-36) and different pressures for front/rear, I have settled around 30 front and 28 rear. I get decent hwy mileage (did I just say that?) and the ride is tolerable. I found the ride was quite a bit softer around the mid 20's but my mileage dropoff was noticable. I didn't find any better mileage above 32 and the ride was downright rigid. Just my with my setup/tires.

2001 LE (w/Auto Mode all wheel drive) "shifted" in to 4LO:

Yeah, but it does help.

Wow, I'm happy for you. Wish I could be there to help you install. Would you be so kind as to start a build thread?

Found this a while back but never ordered (just borrowed Thunderbolt's): Locknut Socket

My the short answer would be...probably. I've heard good things about the OME coils too, but have no personal experience with them. Based on everything I know now, I think everyone should jut go as big as you can the first time (cause you'll always find some reason to just get a little bit taller). So if I were you I'd just get the full 2" lift and some good 31's. That's about how I started and I took my family camping/exploring all over the Rockies for over 3 years. It might work well for you. If I could start over, I would have gone 2" AC lift, 1" strut spacer, 1.5" front wheel spacers, and some 32's. I think that is an awesome setup that wouldn't have left me wanting for more only 1 year after my 2" lift and 31's. Any ways, just my thoughts.

IRRC I have just over 13,500 miles on my DT's. Based on tread depth measurement, I think I'll get about 30-35K miles (so another 2 years (about 11,000/year for 3 years = 33K miles). I know that seems like a short range, but I don't wear my tires down too far because I'm part of an emergency 4x4 driver group (for severe snow events) and we have a minimum tread depth requirement. BUT it can make it nice when I go to sell them on Craigslist - I put that money towards the new set (I get between $120-160 each set).

I bet this topic could be discussed until everyone is blue in the face, but we all have our own experiences and opinions. But I love to talk tires, so here's my opinion based on my experiences: I've run Bridgestone Desert Duelers, BFG AT's, and now GY DuraTracs. The DuraTracs are my favorite. They have been extremely compliant on dry/wet paved roads, they have paddled through 30" snow drifts and maintained decent traction on hard packed snow (better then my BFG's), have gone through 2' of mud (which I know is NOT super deep but was happy to see the outer lugs clear), they air down well and make it through craggy granite rocks, loose sharp shale, and up/down sandstone (slick rock). I like that they look super aggressive from the side but seem to be a combination between an AT (good amount of factory siping and semi-close lugs in the center section) and an MT (wide/deep outer lugs). The sidewalls are even holding up well after taking a lot of abuse last summer. Just my opinion and it is fairly limited to my small tire sample size, but none-the-less...

I had purchased spacers because I had bought the 33's prior to completing the SFD - not real smart, but it worked - but after the test fit, found I didn't need the spacers (I bought 1" spacers originally). Boy, not sure about the 16x10 (especially with a 16" rim). Might be a bit wide for the available metric tire sizes. I love how my rims look BUT, I honestly like how SilvaPathy used his original rims and spacers up front. Not suggesting it, but I kind of wish I had gone that way.