Rick13

Have you checked in to the possibility of using these? Rugged Rocks - Gears I'm close to being in the same boat as you (my LSD is practically useless and I'm quite under-geared for my tires), so I'll be watching this thread (and I will PM you if I ever get off my duff and do something this winter).

Ha! You crack me up. Thanks a lot. You better let me know next time you head out this way again so we can hit some trails - meet you in Moab or the San Juans. Not sure about all the parts (forgot the list he had). I remember him saying the accident wasn't crazy bad, but insurance had deemed it "totaled" (which I totally understand with vehicles of our age taking a good lick in an accident, but is sad none-the-less). I talked to him a couple months back and he still had some random items (like a Hi-Lift and shovel or axe attachment to the Yakima rack and I think some other odds/ends). Really nice guy to deal with. Any way, the ARB is stout, I can definitely give it that. I've winched off it 3 times and the thing doesn't even flinch (I've seen other bumpers "give" a little under full load especially when yanking at a significant angle).

I hate loosing any flex, so I wouldn't like adding to the bump stops on mine, but I definitely understand the rubbing issues - my tires have "repositioned" my rear flares over the past few years. Would you have to get longer bolts if you add the puck/spacer to the stops?

Well, you definitely won't be the first with WJ rear coils. I'm on my second set, but yeah, they can work with a little customization (modified seat/adapter). Something like this? I think the estimated lift heights aren't all correct and I'm sure the prices aren't the same (I did this over 3 years ago):

Yeah, with my bumper flapping at highway speeds I did the 01silvapathy bumper "mod" for a while. I REALLY liked the approach angle and the ease with which I could mount my lights: But then, with COPathy's bad luck (totaled his R50 recently), I was able to purchase his ARB: I've never like the ARB bumper (for several reasons), but it was really hard to pass up on a bolt-on bumper with all the "fixins". I still think the modified XJ, custom build, or custom fab yourself are the best ways to go for real off-roading with this beast. And I'm mostly talking about having one less bulky with better angles. I'm still a bit disappointed my design/build plans with a fabricator here in Colorado didn't go through (because I bought this ARB), but I hate to look a gift-horse in the mouth, ya know.

Sorry, lurking... Darek, so is your leak from the output shaft and not between the "middle" and "rear" parts of the case? Sorry if I missed that. I'll be happy for you if it's as simple as described! Not trying to thread-jack, just trying to learn something.

Very nice, really like your setup.

I may be in a similar situation, so I'm watching this thread. I was in some really slick snow/ice and watched both drivers front/rear tires spin while all my friends laughed at both passenger tires sit completely motionless. One of those situations that I thought was impossible with a my setup. ??? Anyways, weighing my options right now. If I open up my diff, I might convince myself to actually re-gear (of course front/rear). I know = crazy talk unless I make it happen. Anyways, watching this cause I know close to nothing about how to fix this issue.

Probably neither, I had to click on the picture to open another window and then enlarge it from there.

I agree with all said (especially Karmann) - hope you're OK. Anyone else see the bumper sticker on that tow truck?!?! That cracked me up! "Is there life after death?" "Touch my truck and find out"

My struts probably squeak...but I can't hear them over all the other squeaks my rig makes now.

I wish my Pathy liked to fish...it just can't cast out very well. Seriously though, nice pics.

I used 2 "quick fists" to attach it to my Yakima rack. IIRC they are intended for mounting fire extinguishers (and the like) but I liked the price difference compared to the Yakima rack attachment: I like that hitch mount...I may have to make me one.

Just a quick one from my experience 3 years ago... Local Costco - wouldn't mount/balance because I was way over the recommended tire size for my vehicle (they would let me order/purchase from them though). Local Discount Tire - wouldn't mount/balance because at the time I had spacers on my front hubs (manager said they "wouldn't deal with those") My local shop (that is owned by a personal friend of mine) quoted me $195 more than my deal with Tread Depot. I showed him my online quote and he said "Holy carp". So, my one week of research/questions made the decision quite easy back then. I'll be doing the same research again this spring, but I'm really hoping that my local DT will price match and mount balance since I don't run spacers anymore. I agree, would much rather go local, but if it means I'm going to save almost $200, I will definitely order on-line again. Sorry, just wanted to clarify that I am NOT a "on-line" only buyer - especially for something as important as tires.

I hate mud. I'd rather "snow bash" then "mud bog" just to avoid the clean-up alone. Good luck with that alternator albino.

My phone is killing me on the double posts/quotes - sorry, deleted redundant post.

I don't know, but I purchased a set of tires from Tread Depot about 3 years ago when I had a free shipping code and a $60 Goodyear mail-in rebate. It made my 33's quite the deal at the time. I have yet to see anything like that recently (and I'm due for new tires in the spring). Tread Depot was awesome to deal with and I got my tires in like 3 or 4 days from order. The only concerning thing was that the UPS guy just rolled the tires out the back of his truck and on to my driveway - good thing I was home I guess? Next time I ordered (for my wife's car) I had them delivered to the shop who mounts/balances for me - I just called them and let them know when to expect the shipment. I'd also like to know what people think on this since I'll be installing new shoes in about 5 months.

I like it. Clean looking. Hey, if you decide to reshape and don't have a heat gun, I bought a Hazard Fraught (Harbor Freight) heat gun for $12 dollars a few months ago. I keep finding things to reshape/shrink wrap. Might be worth a try.

I started on my rear hatch BECAUSE of what I researched/read about the WD21's...which lead me to check the door switches next. Sure glad I could find the write-ups - thank you. I hope this is similar to Karmann's problem.

I had this a couple weeks ago. I found out by manually checking all my door switches one at a time and found out my passenger door switch was not aligned with the door frame (too many people use the armrest/handle to get in to my car). I just turned the dome light to "Auto", opened each door one by one, and depressed the switch of the open door to check if the light went off. Easy for my simple mind. Just an FYI - I have temporarily duct-taped a couple thick flat washers to make the switch fully depress (while I figure out how to fix it permanently).

I've pulled a 1700lb fully loaded popup trailer up/down the Rockies every 4 weeks or so this summer. I live at 5800 ft and have pulled it up/over a couple 10000+ ft passes. It definitely bogs down and kicks to lower gears fast with 33" tires and my stock 4.3 gears, but she still gets the job done. If I lived a sea level, had stock diameter tires, and my tow package I don't think I'd worry unless I got well over 2500lb...even then, I'd probably be most concerned with stopping (trailer brakes help me right now).

So I comment like 4 times on this thread and NEVER looked at your build...don't ask, I have no excuse. Looks great, nice build. BTW, the only thing I don't like is that dumb looking TJM bumper. You should sell that.......maybe to someone in Colorado?

Here is what I've been running for a couple years now: ProComp ES9000 (Part #929500) Extended - 29.5" Compressed - 17.5"

No, I believe if you measure from the fender/flare that the rear should be about 1" taller than the front - it's been a while since I looked at those specs, but that' what I recall. A 1" spacer shouldn't make a stink bug stance unless your front springs are sagging. That's why I showed the spacer and the block inserts. The block inserts keep the spring from compressing as much as they would like to, but they really don't change your ride height (unless your springs are beyond sagging and stay in a pretty compressed state). These may harshen the ride a bit, but might help you from bottoming out which I figured was your biggest concern. Really, with how cheap and easy the block inserts are, they'd be what I'd try first.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=mr+gasket+coil+spring+spacer Kind of a joke there, but seriously, IIRC these are pretty universal parts. I think I bought the coil spacers on Amazon and the block spacers at a nearby Advance Auto. The coil spacers I put beneath my coil springs (btw the springs and the seat/perch). When I had these it took more time to get my jack out than to insert them. I ended up putting them on the top of a modified Jeep coil spring a few months later and liked that much better - I think it dampened sound more than the old stock spring isolator. The block inserts I used for about a week but found that they will fall out when wheeling (specifically when at full droop on one side). For these I just jacked up from the subframe to get the coils to release a little then took a wrench and twisted them btw the coil wraps (at equal spacing around 2 wraps directly in the middle of the coil spring). Hope that helps.