Rick13

Very nice. Any side shots to see how they fill out the wheel wells? I think you'll really like your GY DuraTracs. I've had mine for 6 months and they have been great through a Colorado winter.

Yeah, and I bet Andrew runs with scissors!!! Anyone think Andrew has had enough of our ? Congratulations on all the great comments you've received Andrew (even if it's just us extra "Dad's" giving our gratuitous safety advice said only in your best interest - me included) and for having your topic quite efficiently !!! Now I'm going to go to my user subscriptions and unsubscribe cause I'm of getting the emails on this...it's driving me a little . Here you go Andrew and not in a way...

Glad you got it fixed on the cheap. Because it looks like you might need a few more comments about not using a jack stand... ...you could always do what we do on the trails and just stack the tire you took off and your spare under the frame near where you are working.

My first thought was CV, but I'm not so sure after watching your video...but I'd check that first as others had said. Dude, good luck!

Yeah, that's kind of why I posted it up. I figured that even though we are all R50's that there might be some slight differences (or even large ones!).

I think I'll go with this for my rig (2001 R50): I swore I had read this exact topic about a year ago, but I also know how doing searches can be before posting. I've done this calc many times over the past 7 years of owning my R50 (filling up at the first sign of the warning light) and I get anywhere from 2-3 gallons. I also know that there can be great fluctuations in when this indicator comes on so I'd base it on your personal experience with your particular truck. Just my

I think there could be a few things, but in my personal case it was a failing strut bearing and upper mount that was in disrepair that "clunked" while turning right at low speeds (especially while lightly braking). I believe there are other reasons but will let less car-tarded folks respond...

Well, I was doing about 45 mph when someone pulled out in front of me. This is the first time since installing the link that I actually "felt" the difference. There was very little roll and my quick left-right action was quite controlled. Pretty cool. Can't wait to wheel it...

Didn't see it mentioned, and I'm not even sure you have it on your particular rig, but I'd watch out/remove the ABS sensor/line also (mine were clipped/retained to each strut when removed last time).

Just to throw out one more option...the stock scissor jack on top of the Hi Lift off-road base. I've only tried it once, but it worked quite well. Stole the idea from a friend who uses the off-road base and his stock bottle jack.

If you went with the 1" strut spacer in the front you could go with a gasket coil spacer in the back: Mr Gasket 1" Coil Spacer (Universal) I can vouch that they lift just under 1" (they compress a little after install). Think I paid like $9/piece for them about 6 months ago...

Just thinking of that first picture you posted, looked awfully familiar and reminded me of the painful install (IMHO): And some commiserating with the positive camber:

Already received mine from JA today in the mail...that seemed really quick. I got a little excited and put it in this afternoon. After a quick drive around the block I didn't notice much difference. Maybe a little stiffer feeling going in to corners and less body roll going up my curb/sidwalk/driveway. I will get it out on the open road tomorrow and will be testing it in Moab (w/Thunderbolt) in May. Will post up findings on both soon...

Looks really nice. I had to add another camber adjustment bolt to one side to get it all aligned...just an FYI. EDIT: Should have added that I think it looks extremely well balanced - nice choice in rear coils...

I didn't expect much at all from our inquiries, I just thought it was fun to think about and see what kind of response we might get. On the other hand I did expect them to put down the crack pipe before replying to a letter of interest about their products. Seriously, for $1500 I could have had a completely custom exhaust system and that was specifically tuned to my vehicle, made by racing experts in a weeks time. Knowing the guy building it, I'm quite sure that it had the possibility of being completely reproducible (lowering the cost for subsequent clients). My point being that if times are so hard and the market just isn't there, maybe they should be looking for a different market share for their products... I actually think that smaller shops are the way to go for something like this, Borla has a name to keep up and I'm sure their R&D is bit more involved than the shop I could have taken my rig to...

Wow, is that how much a "reach around" goes for these days?!?! Yeah, that price is ridiculous. I used to know a guy when I lived in Cali that quoted me $1,500 for a custom dual exhaust...and I thought that was a bit of a rip!

Thanks for the respone... IIRC Iron Rock sticks around 175 lb/in spring rate. I didn't know they sold a 5.5" lift coil. I had seen the 3, 4, and 6.5" lifts - so wow, 5.5 sounds like a good choice. I had a friend with a plasma cutter cut as little coil as possible - basically cutting so that what is left is almost in-line with the wraps. Basially puts the free length at 16". My springs are TeraFlex 4" lift coils and were on close-out (cheap!) but have a high spring rate (190 lb/in). I have 2 different size coil spring isolaters/spacers, so if I don't get enought height, I'll just add them in as needed. Any ways, glad you posted up your results...nice to see.

I'm really glad you posted up - since mine should be here in a week. I know Thunderbolt said it made cornering/turning "more responsive". Sweet.

If your clunk is while turning the wheel, it could be your strut mounts/bearings, which should truly be replaced when you replace your struts. Just a thought.

Complete...but I was thinking the same thing. Maybe it goes in to a database that helps determine the direction of new products.

Very nice. The 5.5" WJ springs...where did you purchase them from? Or really all I would like to know is if you have the spec's on them - free length, spring rate (lb/in). I didn't get my rear brake line yet, but I'm curious to see how different WJ springs affect our lift height. Mine are 4" lift springs, 16.25" free length, and are 190 lb/in spring rate (I load mine down so got a higher spring rate coil). Thanks, can't wait to see the rest of it!!!

OK, more of the the rear is a no-brainer in my opinion, but I'm not sold on the front just yet (but I'll try it this summer):

Just placed my order today. Really nice folks and I like the thought of supporting a shop that is actually supporting our vehicle. As with others, I'll post up my take on the benefits of the install.

I didn't have the need to relocate the breather tubes, but I did exactly what was previously suggested. Took the breather off the front diff and walked it in to the local O'Reilly's. We walked to the back and matched it up to a similar diameter tube (of compatible composition) that was about 5" longer. So $4 and 10 minutes later I was good to go.