solid snake

It is recommeded to change the t-belt every 60k miles, if you are not sure then I would strongly recommend to change it, along with the t-stat, water pump, and radiator hoses while you are in there. If the t-belt breaks, then it would cost you a lot more to repair the vavles after they bend. here's a write up; http://www.jimbennett.net/timing_belt_replacement.htm

I want to do some planning ahead and was interested in doing the maxima swap, or may be swap the heads from a n/a 300zx. I think some of the members here have done the engine swap, don't know about the heads though. I was reading throught the forum and it seems that the 300zx would need to come from a pre 89. I really would like to have a newer engine. I also remember 88 mentioning about swapping the heads from the 300zx. Question is which year for maxima engine and heads for 300? If I do the swap for the heads, would I probably be pushing about 200 h/p?

Yeah, ask about milage, compression testing, what components were replaced, (especially T-belt), if there are any gaskets that need to be replaced and most importantly, warranty BTW welcome to the board

The K&N intake should give you a moderate performance boost, gas milage wise you should be looking at at least 4 mpg. Make sure the kit includes a heat shield to avoid sucking in engine heat, if not then you may not see any performance. I think it's a worthwhile investment.

The bypass hose is fine, no leak, and haven't done a compresion test, I reburpped the system and had the heater running full blast, it seemed to help out, I haven't really tested it out running idle for a while. No loosing coolant, no white smoke, or foamy oil either. I'll check with the local NAPA store for hardware.

Thanks Nutz. Are the studs you are quoting me from the stealership? if not from what auto store. i checked with checkers and they don't have any studs, they only have them for chevy v8's. As far as the head gaskets, I'm really starting to reconsider replacing them. I know it is not header related, I just thought of replacing them since I haven't found what my temperature problem is yet. Here's he post I was reffering to: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=8449 No leak from heads.

sounds pretty good, post our truck's pics and off road.

Nice truck, start modding it and post pics.

Thanks Slick, will change out also That's the same thing I was thinking, the hardware does not look stock. I think the PO was in here before. i hope it's not that hard to replace, the nuts don't look like they're gonna break, but you never know. PB blaster gonna be my best freind. well I figuered that since I'm in here I might was well replce them. As some of you might remember from a prevoius, post I still have a temperature problem, t'stat, t'belt, hoses, radiator cap, radiator, and 16" e-fan are new and I still have a temp problem. The only thing I can think that my be wrong is the head gaskets. Thanks for the advice Earth, I'll be getting ready for the header replacement.

That's what I'm saying

I'm going to receive my new headers on tuesday and I just want to share with you guys some of the problems that I may encounter, here are some pics of what is going on right now. I also have a few questions to ask. Here are the pics. Since I'm going to be working on this, I though that I might as well replace the head gasktes, but since I'm replacing the head gaskets I should go ahead and replace the valve cover gaskets and the intake manifold gasket. What other gasket do you think I should replace?

I can get the lift for about $700.00 from rocky moutain suspension, unless you know of a cheaper site filter should be another $40 and optima $120.00

Thanks, I really want to test them out and write out a review, since I mounted them I haven't really tested them in my off road stomping grounds, but will test pretty soon.

Ok here we go: K&N filter $45 flowmaster and chrome tip with labor $90 JGC coils $30 previous Tires and wheel $600 T-belt, thermostat, front brake replacement and front rotors resurfacing, and lube chasis; including parts and labor $120 window tint $20 pro comp offroad lights $120 push bar (was free, needed some polishing and rust removed) $20 cv inner boot $14 labor for install of boot $30 msd ingnition box $180 msd coil $30 pro comp es 9000 shocks $120 stem to eye shock converter kit for front shocks $25 radiator $160 e-fan $80 passenger side fender, with repainting $50 M/T Baja Claws $580 Eagle alloys series 102 $400 and just recently Thorley Headers $250 grand total of $2964 :o and I'm not even done! I still want trailmaster suspension lift, cone filter, and optima battery, thats another $860.

I would say Lucas tranny additive. I put some of that stuff in the tranny and it worked great. You could add it to manual or auto tranny. Hard shifting went away and it seemed to run smoother.

:o :o :o :o $407.00 for a sensor and labor! Man what a rip off, summit racing has NGK's for $50.00. Hell it's an easy DIY if it's not seized like Mookie said.

That's alot of cash for labor, why don't you just a flowmaster series 40 and a cat from summitracing.com. I paid $70.00 for the flowmaster at a local shop and had it installed for $20.00, that was labor and pipes.

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Or I can always swap the left side tires to the right and vice versa, no? They're mounted already, but everytime I want to take a pic there's something that comes up which doesn't let me. Yesterday was that the pathy was with my wife, then she got home and NPORA locked me out, I got the page can not be displayed error, then today NPORA is back up and running and my wife took the pathy to take my son for a check up. Man, I really want to take a picture already. That way, hopefully I can go TOTM

Hmmm, good question, never thought of that. I guess I'll stick with having the 235/75/15 stock tire as spare.

The wheels weigh about 21 lbs, if I remember correctly. Yeah, I saw those prices for 33's $285.00 at summit racing :o That's why I decided to go with 31's. I finally got them mounted yesterday, as soon as the wifey gets home from her mom's will post pics of them mounted on the pathy

Cool, I'll check this one out then. I hope it's just the t-stat

Yeah, I use to live in South Central L.A. I know what you mean about rust. I buried my tonkas for a couple of days and got them out and played with them. Now that I remember, I use to have that truck in the bottom right. This looks like the collection I had.

Man, does any one remember the all metal tonkas? Those were cool. I use to ride on top of the dump truck and beat the s#!t out of it and wouldn't get a dent. I loved those trucks. I had the dump truck, the crane, and the bull dozer. Ah, nostalgia!

It is a 170 t-stat. I bought it at Auto Zone, it is called the FailSafe, supposedly it says that "DESIGNED TO LOCK OPEN AT APPROXIMATELY 280 F TO PROVIDE MAXIMUM COOLANT FLOW DURING OVERHEATING CONDITION." I'm gonna really consider buying a diffrent brand though. I just saw this info online too, if it stays locked at 280, why doesn't it stay lock at 170 then, since it's a 170 t-stat?