solid snake

So know that you figured out what the wire is, how about that pathy pic?

I since I didn't see any diagnostic lights flashing I assumed that the a/t module is crapped out. I'm going to try to get one from a bone yard and see if that will fix it. if not, then I'll drop by to the stealership. Should there be any diffrence between pathy a/t module, besides manual and auto. Is there any difference, like the ecu?

yeah, they look pretty worn. My lugs are bigger than those. I would agree with the above.

The brake light is activated when the emergency brake is in use. Try to see if the cable for the emergency brake is not streched out too far and activated the light. As for the battery, check the terminals. Does the pathy crank? Check the conections for the alty also.

Ok, tried doing the diagnositics, and do not get any judgement flickers, i used both the procedure in the link that Eli posted and the pinned topic at the garage section and no flahsing lights foir diagnostics whatsoever. should I assume that the A/T unit is crapped out?

I've raced a 4runners, exploders, and expeditions. The exploder had the small v8 engine on it, and even though I lost, the pathy was only about a car and a half away from me.

well the tranny cooler definetely help. There is a pinned post for changing the tranny oil. 88 put his cooler between the condenser and the radiator and according to him, works perfectly fine. As far as a flush, if you haven't changed the oil and it's been over 30k miles, then definetly do the flush. I would do the flush and see how that works first. Tranny overhauls can be very costly, may be about 2K Try checking your electrical side of the problem before going with the over haul. may be it's a loose connection or something.

Ok to answer your question here is a write up: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5325 and you can also go here: http://www.damagedreality.com/tmaster.html

i also think that the stock cat and change out the muffler, then you can see some minor back pressure problems. It's more recommended to change the cat too, to really see a big diffrence in the exhaust set up.

Sweet KV, are those rims 15x10's?

Since the pathy no longer locks up any more, would the lock up solenoid cause both the jerky shifting at 1200 rpm as well as the hard shifting if so, then this could be the cuplrit of my problem, but since this is a stealership item only, then my next worry would be the price. :o

Nope, only 16 times, well 17 if you count the flash when you first turn on the pathy, but I don't think that counts.

Ok here's video:

Ok, finally had the cash to change the atf and the a/t filter. Still having jerky shifting at 1200 rpm, not as hard before I changed the oil though. Still shifts hard. I still have the power button flashing, having a hard time determining which flasher are longer than the others. Based on the self diagnostics from the garage section, I ruled out the possiblilty of the TPS since I intalled a new one and still had the problem. So now I think it could be the shift solenoid or the speed sensor, but not sure due the flashes. I'll try to post video of the flashes.

Hmm, I would need to check on that too. I clearly remember how this problem started though. I driving down the road at abotu 60 and then I felt a slight change that came from the pathy, the revs went up and down abit, but didn't think much of it at the time.

:idea: May be this is the problem that we are both having. Let me see if my symptons are almost the same as swimmers. Takes a bit to shift to second. When speeding, it's taking longer than normal to shift, but it also shifts hard, like it is pulling the pathy back a bit. When braking and getting close to the 1200 rpm, it upshifts and downshifts a bit, with out pressing the gas. Now, when it takes a while for it to shift out of second to third, it's almost like it's got the e-power button on, but with out the higher rpm shift points. Before I had this problem, for example, I would be driving about 50, at about 2500 rpms, I would depress the accelrator and the rpms would go to about 3000, until the tranny decided to downshift or I pressed on the accelerator again. This is not happening anymore. May be this should be a next culprit. I'm still having this porblem. I actually got a refund on the TPS since I ruled out the possibility of being that. Next thing to check should be the speed sensor, but i have no idea on where to look for it.

He said horsepower! All kidding aside, these engines came really underpowered. I mean you can even feel it when you're trying to peel out at a stop, but other cars seem to be quicker . What most of us have done is keeping regular tune ups on the engine. But when it comes to adding a bit more horses, this is where exhausts come in to play, ignition boxes, may be even a cone filter conversion. Stay away from bigger tires, lifts since these would mean a little more drag and more weight for the pathy. unless you have deep pockets, then go to jim wolf technologies and check out what they have available.

try changing the fluid. it may be worn out. newer fluid is more viscous and have better agents than old. Mine gets pretty hot too. Like B said, it's not a real good place due to the exhaust, tranny, and motor.

Ok, Since I finally figured out what was wrong with the hardshifting. I replaced the TPS and the flashing went away at the frist start. Then when I started the engine again, flashing started. I think it's something with the wiring, I checked the connects that goes directly to the TPS next to the TB and the other connection that leads out of the TPS and they look fine. Anywhere else I should look?

Is that what they are rated at? Cause I remember a link that took you to fordmuscle.com and they say it's about 2,000 cfm. hell, if they are rated at 3,500 cfm, I'll try to look for one around here, even though it's gonna be pretty hard since there's not too many late 80's early 90's taurus'. before I install that fan, I'm gonna go to the bone yard and try to find a 95 maxima alty.

Yeah, that's what I was thinking too. Thanks for the feedback, now I gotta save $110.00 more to buy.

I was thinking of buying a dual e-fan rated at 4k, but started to wonder if this was kind of an overkill. Then I saw another e-fan rated at 2,500 cfm, which is 1k more than what I have right now. With the one on right now, when I turn the a/c on the temp stays a little above the half way mark. Then I had a problem with the compressor about a month ago, where a valve ruptured and the freon escaped. The reason for this is that the a/c guy told me that the fan I have wasn't pulling much air and caused the rupture. So now my question is, should I get the 4k or the 2,500 cfm fan?

There shouldn't be problem since most parts are interchangeable with the WD21's. If you decide to go aftermarket though, make sure you measure the stock backspacing and bolt pattern. Other wise, it should be a direct bolt up.

Why not try ebay, or the stealership

I like it, but considering the fade, I would print off the design and take it to a vinyl shop