solid snake

The engine would obviously will need to be swapped, but does the exhaust manifold use the same design as the vg30e, that way we can swap headers no prob.

How about this one RB26DETT :o

Isn't the engine bay a bit narrow for that?

http://www.stupidvideos.com/video//song_dance/Booger_Song/

Welcome Kelly. You should check out the garage section and the how to's for any questions you may have.

Cool, nice lookin rig. I'm planning on buying those xterrains after my mickey-t's baja claws are spent.

Welcome Back Mr. Jim. I hope everything goes well with you in life.

Well not necessarily DIY, I was just planning on getting what is required and go to a shop so they can weld everything together. But I was just wondering to get a step by step, so I can give the info to the guy who is going to do it for me.

Checked out their site and they only have a how to install the new CL.

Yeah, Im pretty sure that this would be the case, but I do remember reading a post somewhere that they made the CL more nimble by welding bearings.

Ditto. Know anyone who has beefed up their CL to do a write up for a DIY?

The mickey thompson baja claws are six ply side wall, according the some info that I have read though, the tread is now six ply also.

Ok I'm gonna add this one since I need to do it anyway. Changing out the rear main seal, went to a mechanic, got quoted $450.00 for labor cause he has to remove the tranny and some of the suspension. Went to a second shop, and was quoted $250.00 only unbolting the tranny and then unbolt motor from frame. I have been going the the mechanic who quoted me $250.00 for quite sometime and I do trust his work. I would do it myself, but lack of tools, experiance and a engine hoist.

I had the same problem. What I did is broke the top of the rotor off, there was a small screw that you will need to unscrew and the base to where the rotor is in contact with will come out. from there you will need to spray the contacts with either pb blaster or wd-40 then try to remove. clean the bronze base off and reinstall. This is how I did it, don't know if it is the correct method or not, but you may want to check the timing, cause I accelerated it a bit.

So how are you going to mod this one up? SAS, 33's, snorkle?

Whoa, just checked out the site and pricing. All of a sudden I felt a big empty whole in the pocket. It would have been nice to see what kind of h/p gains you would have and if it would require 92 octane or not.

On the tranny issue, by pass the stock tranny cooler and install an aftermarket cooler. The bigger the better. As far as the oil is concerned, you should try to use redline synthetic, I used b&m synthetic on mine and works great. I would also recomment to pour in a quart of lucas transmission fix. for the noises, check your suspension parts. If its nothing really major, like worn out cv's or ball joints, check your bushings on the suspension parts. I don't know if you get any popping when going over a bump or turning the wheel, but there are 2 nuts next to the lower control arm that need to be tightened. They will be toward the front of the suspension. Would have posted a pic, but can't find one.

The wire that is coming from the amplifier is what connects to the stock coil. I don't know what color the pos and neg would be for the pre 90 models, but I know that the blue is neg and black is pos, or is it the other way around? I can't recall right now cause I cant go out right now. Why not get a electrical tester, turn the key to the acc and then connect the neg end of the tester to a good ground and pinch one of the wires to find out which is pos. As far as the wires are concerned for the msd, why not skip the connector to the stock coil and use the msd wires to connect to the blaster coil. you will need the amplifier, and I think what you are mean as amplifier is the stock coil. the amplifier comes before the coil, so clip the wires before the coil.

Ok got new info for all of you. I guess I would not needed to take it to the stealership to get it checked out anymore. When I finished doing the alty swap all the problems went away, just like Knoxville. Everything works great, overdrive torque converter locking up properly, and hard jerky shifting is gone. I don't know how modified knoxville's pathy is, as far as electronics is concerened, but if you take a look at my sig you can see what I have, beside a basic audio system set up. The dual fans are pulling 50 amps at start up and the stock alty is only rated at 70. Anyone care to have some sort of diagnosis to why this happend. What i was thinking is that there was not enough juice going to some sort of electronic component to the tranny and it was causing this problem.

That looks awsome, congrats on the tire carrier and bumper.

Anyone know where to find the bj dust boots? I tried autozone, checker, napa, and summit.. couldn't find them. What I was thinking is that the upper bj's are more suspectable to damage when the t-bars are cranked than the lower bj's, due to the angle at which they are set. If this is true, then I can only replace the dust boot, since the grease is coming out of the lower ones already and I can save about $60. Im going to go ahead and replace the tie rod bushings while I'm at it.

I just swapped a maxima alty and I haven't seen the flashes since then. before swapping it though, I poured in a bottle of lucas tranny additive, had the same hard shifting for a bit, but I eventually just ignored it since I was looking for the alternator. after the install I did notice it stopped, I didn't know if it was the additive or not. I haven't seen the tourque converter lock up anymore though since the problem started. When I release the gas at about 50, the revs just drop to about 2500 and no lock up.

That's wierd, you were probably thinking the same thing I was thinking then. Cause I was gonna go ahead with the install anyways to test it on the pathy. The guy at the autozone connected the negative lead to the alty's metal casing and not the negative screw. I don't think that would mess up the test, but when I went to checker they connected everything how it goes.

It's a 90. What I did find out is, like WD21 from 90-95, the parts are interchangable, so between 86-94 maxima alty should work. I verfied it thru the part# from the checker website. Now you do need to be carefull because the DOHC version of the maxima has a diffrent bolt on pattern than the SOHC. The one you want to use is the SOHC version. The DOHC version puts out 8 more amps IIRC.

will do, will have to wait until sunday since im getting off late from work tomorrow.