solid snake

I saw louvers on a cherokee, I thought they looked pretty good on it, don't know if there were openings on the hood though. I thought of doing something like this, but didn't want any water to get inside, since I'm going to install a one filter and try to get the most out of it by installing louvers. here's a drwaing of how it looked. btw the openings were toward the windshield.

:o I want mine to look something like that, I was planning on keeping the stock bumper and just use longer screws to mount it in place.

Why not sand the rust off, spray some rustoleum, then spray some bed liner on the chassis This i'll guarentee no rust for a long time, at least if you are a weekend warrior.

Thanks k9sar, I'll have to print these out and taken them to my mechanic friend since I don't have a voltage meter. Or i'll try to borrow one.

Ok, new updated. Checked the connection at the coil, and that retighten the wires that come from the msd. Check engine light went away. Suddenly when I placed it in reverse and started to accelerate, check engine came on. depressed accelerator and it went way. pressed it again.., yeah, you've guessed it, check engine came on. So, now I think it has to do with the TPS, but no error code for tps showed up in the ecu. All this started when I took my a/c to get fixed. I didn't know what the guy did until I saw that the intake hose was not even secured at the air filter box and the throttle body. I secured the hoses already. I'm pretty pissed about it. I think I should charge the a/c guy the TPS, if that's even the problem. :furious: This is how I felt throughout the ordeal!

Cool, I'll check the connections for the coil. I have the msd installed, so I guess I'll check that first and determine if this is the culprit. May need to solder the connections for extra protection. as far as 51, I hope someone chimes in on this. I wonder if the problem is related since the ignition is important for fuel burining. Would bad wire set cause the check engine to come on?

This happens to me everytime i park at home. my dog pisses on the tires :furious:

I tried to start the pathy today and it sounded almost like it was going to choke. Then check engine light came on, I so I ran diagnostics and got trouble code 21 and 51, so basically ignition signal and injector circuit. This is the first time this has happend and I moved the wire plugs around a bit at the distributor and checked the check engine light and it went away. So, now I'm pretty sure that I'm going to need a new wire set soon. Would this cause the check engine to come on. What else should I check that is related to these codes, as far as distributor, coil. The starter worked fine and turned the engine on quickly, alternator shouldn't be culprit since lights come on. What other suggestions do you guys have? :help:

Cool Pfinder. Let us know what mods you plan on doing first.

What would happen then if the inevitable occurs, (Jim stops paying the bill, and NPORA would shutdown?). I know many of us would hate to see this, this is like my second home, as well as many others who have been here for a long time.

Well what i ment was to bleed the master cylinder and calipers cause I had a similar problem and this helped, and if the fluid is low, then why not bleed the system and clean it . If the fluid is low, the abs light will turn on.

:cool2: Love that they have a link to our forum! Maybe we can get Vengeful to edit some of it. sly

No, theyre pretty popular here in AZ.

Hey, hey. This was the only pic I had of a side view at the time, besides it was for this post: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9584

I will need to look at a diagram to see what that piece is for. As far as the anti-lock brakes, check the fluid level in the resevoir, on the master cylinder, the brake pads on the rotors and drums, if the pads are good. try bleeding your braking system, cehck for leaks. The touring/sport button you see is for adjusting the shocks on the truck from trouing/ street or highway use, to sport/ offroad etc. If the shocks don't work any longer, I can't see the benefit of having that option. The power button is used for "sporty driving or driving up long slopes. As the tranmission may always shift in higher engine revelution (higher vehicle speed), you can obtain powerful acceleration in passing or climbing". This info is from the owners manual.

Here ya go.

So here's how the pathy compares to other SUV's Rodeo Explorer Cherokee Blazer 4Runner And my Pathy

Ditto on that. How the hell would you mistake a pathy for a CRV?

Ok, drove it around and it doesn't shift hard anymore, or try to shift and undershift anymore. I'm still planning on doing the fluid as soon as I have some cash.

I know this has happened to everyone, it happens to me all the time. Mine's been mistaken for all of the above. I really hate it, and then I say it's a NISSAN PATHFINDER!

I recently installed thorleys on my 92, yes it's an auto. I didn't have any clearance issues like you are having. Mine was all directly bolt up, no problem in trying to fit everything. Had a shop extend the egr valve tubing so it can fit nice and neat with out any bending. Here's the link: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=8933&st=0

Haven't changed the fluid since i bought the pathy a year ago. Reverse works, Still have to check lines, as far as tranny cooler, i had to replace the radiator cause it crapped out on me in March, replaced it with new rad from autozone, don't know how close to stock that is, as far as clogging. Yeah, I found it. really great info. When I saw the TPS diagram, I remembered that on wednesday the a/c guy had to remove the intake hose and probably removed the TPS switch. I disconnected it and connected it, turned the engine on and no more flashes, just turns on then off. I think that this may have solved the problem, but that doesn't mean that I shouldn't rule out the possibility of other sensors, or tranny being f'ed up. I'm going to drive it around later on today to see how it shifts. If I remember reading a post, I think i need a total of 14 quarts of t-fluid to compeltely change the fluid in the torque conveter too right? I was planning on buying B&M tranny fluid and a quart of Lucas t-fluid for slipping. Any recommendations as far as what fluid I want to use? So I should plan on spending a total of about $120.00 inlcuding a/t filter for a DIY using the two bucket method? Thanks for the info.

This is the second time that the pathy is shifting hard when it gets to about 50 or 60. When I come to a stop it downshifts at around 1000-1500 hard too. It feels like it wants to shift in gear but downshifts. it does this before I come to a complete stop. When I was getting back home I was trying to find out exactly where the problem occurs. I let go of the accelerator and once it starts falling in to that 1000-1500 it starts doing it. One other thing i noticed was when I start the pathy the power button for the tranny starts flashing about 10 to 15 times then turns off. I don't have the power set to on, it's on auto. When I drive around, the tranny feels like the power button is on when it shifts, but it doesn't feel as powerful...if that makes any sense. By the way I do have an auto tranny...I know, I know. Any help will be greatly appreciated, cause I don't have any cash right now to invest in a new tranny. I could barely pay for my a/c to get fixed on wednesday. :o

Well i finally got it fixed on wednesday. i took it to a a/c specialist and said it was a valve that was f'ed up. he told me that the reason this happened is because the e-fan i got in the pathy right now is not pulling enough cfm's to cool the a/c condensor, and it caused a valve to rupture and leak all the freon. He told me the fan is enough to cool the motor, but recommended me to install another one that will blow air to the condensor. So basically set up the fan between the grill and the condensor. So $50 later and about 3.5 hours later, the pathy was blowing cool fresh air again. Good thing i still have the old fan so I'm going to install it and hook it up to the compressor.

sorry for sounding completly moronic, I'm still new to the whole lsd and diffs. The purpose of trying to swap a r180 to a r200, or get a lsd in the front is to get more traction What i do know is that a lsd is better than an open diff, cause both tire spin at the same time, as opposed to one tire, at least for the rear wheels. so when you engage in 4x4 does that mean that there is only 3 wheels that are pulling the truck?, of course supposing that you have a lsd in the rear diff.