solid snake

I know you guys are gonna hate me for this but I got the flowmaster for $75.00 at a local shop and I went down to mexico for the install with piping for only $40.00. Oh and BTW, they did a really great job at it too.

Thanks for the advice, so I shouldn't have very little hope that the tranny made it out alive then, right? Hopefully it's just a seal, but if not then I'm gonne have to go to the junkers and find another tranny. The dipstick does show some fluid, but it also looks a little foamy. I changed the fluid back in august IIRC and with 3 engine oil changes since then, I hardly think it even got to another 15k so i can change the tranny fluid again. I'll take some pics, just got to warn you that it's little messy from both atf and motor oil since my rms needs to be changed out too.

dude, take a look at your stock muffler. You need a flowmaster with the offset outlet, if you want to keep the stock specs, to get stock measurement just try to measure the inside of the exhaust pipe. As far as the hf cat, get one with the same measurement of the muffler.

Ok, checked the drive shafts and they all are in good condition. I noticed that the tranny pan and the passenger side tbar has atf all over it. can a busted tranny oil pump be the cause of this problem?

Well the thing is that I haven't been able to shift in to 4wd since my wife took it to the dunes. I noticed that the hubs didn't want to lock up. I figuered that the rings would have needed to be repaired, so I just figuered I get it checked out when I take it to the suspension shop when I get the bj and cv boots on. I put in in 4hi then 4lo and no movement at all. I placed it back in 2hi and moved the gears around and nothing. I can hear the the tx case shifting into 4wd but it just doesn't lock. How can I check on the u joint?

So I was driving to work today and was passing a tractor, when all of a sudden I heard a slight pop. Tried to accelerate and nothing. So I let the speed I was driving in coast me to the side of the road. Took it out of gear to parking, shifted to reverse, nothing. Shifted to drive, nothing; shifted to 1 and 2, yeah you guessed it, nothing. No movement at all. Now I've done some research in the garage and it seems that reverse is the first thing that goes out on our tranny's, but the case was that my tranny went out when i was driving it at about 50 mph's. Anyone has any suggestions?

For cams, try http://www.schneidercams.com/. As far as the cv boot is concerned, try this linky: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=255, your most likely going to need to remove the cv axle to replace the boots, unless you want to go the cheap way...ductape

The engine would obviously will need to be swapped, but does the exhaust manifold use the same design as the vg30e, that way we can swap headers no prob.

How about this one RB26DETT :o

Isn't the engine bay a bit narrow for that?

Cool, nice lookin rig. I'm planning on buying those xterrains after my mickey-t's baja claws are spent.

Welcome Back Mr. Jim. I hope everything goes well with you in life.

Well not necessarily DIY, I was just planning on getting what is required and go to a shop so they can weld everything together. But I was just wondering to get a step by step, so I can give the info to the guy who is going to do it for me.

Checked out their site and they only have a how to install the new CL.

Yeah, Im pretty sure that this would be the case, but I do remember reading a post somewhere that they made the CL more nimble by welding bearings.

Ditto. Know anyone who has beefed up their CL to do a write up for a DIY?

The mickey thompson baja claws are six ply side wall, according the some info that I have read though, the tread is now six ply also.

Ok I'm gonna add this one since I need to do it anyway. Changing out the rear main seal, went to a mechanic, got quoted $450.00 for labor cause he has to remove the tranny and some of the suspension. Went to a second shop, and was quoted $250.00 only unbolting the tranny and then unbolt motor from frame. I have been going the the mechanic who quoted me $250.00 for quite sometime and I do trust his work. I would do it myself, but lack of tools, experiance and a engine hoist.

I had the same problem. What I did is broke the top of the rotor off, there was a small screw that you will need to unscrew and the base to where the rotor is in contact with will come out. from there you will need to spray the contacts with either pb blaster or wd-40 then try to remove. clean the bronze base off and reinstall. This is how I did it, don't know if it is the correct method or not, but you may want to check the timing, cause I accelerated it a bit.

So how are you going to mod this one up? SAS, 33's, snorkle?

Whoa, just checked out the site and pricing. All of a sudden I felt a big empty whole in the pocket. It would have been nice to see what kind of h/p gains you would have and if it would require 92 octane or not.

On the tranny issue, by pass the stock tranny cooler and install an aftermarket cooler. The bigger the better. As far as the oil is concerned, you should try to use redline synthetic, I used b&m synthetic on mine and works great. I would also recomment to pour in a quart of lucas transmission fix. for the noises, check your suspension parts. If its nothing really major, like worn out cv's or ball joints, check your bushings on the suspension parts. I don't know if you get any popping when going over a bump or turning the wheel, but there are 2 nuts next to the lower control arm that need to be tightened. They will be toward the front of the suspension. Would have posted a pic, but can't find one.

The wire that is coming from the amplifier is what connects to the stock coil. I don't know what color the pos and neg would be for the pre 90 models, but I know that the blue is neg and black is pos, or is it the other way around? I can't recall right now cause I cant go out right now. Why not get a electrical tester, turn the key to the acc and then connect the neg end of the tester to a good ground and pinch one of the wires to find out which is pos. As far as the wires are concerned for the msd, why not skip the connector to the stock coil and use the msd wires to connect to the blaster coil. you will need the amplifier, and I think what you are mean as amplifier is the stock coil. the amplifier comes before the coil, so clip the wires before the coil.

Ok got new info for all of you. I guess I would not needed to take it to the stealership to get it checked out anymore. When I finished doing the alty swap all the problems went away, just like Knoxville. Everything works great, overdrive torque converter locking up properly, and hard jerky shifting is gone. I don't know how modified knoxville's pathy is, as far as electronics is concerened, but if you take a look at my sig you can see what I have, beside a basic audio system set up. The dual fans are pulling 50 amps at start up and the stock alty is only rated at 70. Anyone care to have some sort of diagnosis to why this happend. What i was thinking is that there was not enough juice going to some sort of electronic component to the tranny and it was causing this problem.

That looks awsome, congrats on the tire carrier and bumper.