solid snake

well since I got my tranny fixed, when i start taking off, I can hear this weird noise like a wire scraping on the pavement, it'll stop when I brake and come to a complete stop and then you can hear it again at low speeds. Once I'm over 50 you can hear the noise any more. Is this what seems to be happening to you. I listened more closely to it and it sounds like its between the front part of the tranny to the motor or in the passenger side wheel. cant really pin point it because I can only hear it while in motion, and I can be under the pathy while it's moving.

Yeah, I like cheap mods!

Ok did some more research, looks like the 80's pathy do come with 60 amp alty. Thanks for pointing that out for me! Well you get an extra 30 amp, as opposed to 20.

Nope should be 70

Do you still have the factory stereo, if not I would just by pass everything and start from scratch.

What year was it from. Cause I checked all the years up to 94 on the alty. I cheked autozone and checkers and since they replace auto parts to oem specs, they were all rated at 90 amps.

oops, that's what I ment

That sounds like a plan too. I already have the 6x9 speaker on the back though. I was thinking of something more like a cutting a hole under the rear seats so i can place my sockets, ratchet and some screwdrivers to free up the back a bit. I have a sub box in the back and it takes almost half of the cargo area. The place where i keep my tools is just a milk gallon crate, so there's not much stuff there. The only problem I see with this would have to be coming back into the US when crossing the border cause some border patrol agents pop a mirror under the car, they might think it's a little suspicious and send me to second inspection.

That was funny. I once ordered a cheeseburger with out cheese, man did that piss them off. Good thing it was my friends cheeseburger and not mine, cause I wouldn't want to see spit in my food, or something worse.

Has any one tried to fab up some compartment spaces. A few places that look like alright places would be under the rear seats, or in the cargo area under the carpet. I dont know how deep you can go before looking at the gas tank on that one, but I'll check it out tomorrow. As far as under the seats, what I was thinking is to open a hole between the two seats and making a box that is 12" long x 5" wide x 5" deep. I don't see any real problems with that set up since the rear sway bar is not too close to the underside of the seats and the drive shaft won't come that close to it. Anyone has any other suggestions. I remember seeing a thread that involved making compartments around the cabin area and the cargo area, but I was thinking of being abit more conspicuous.

Thanks! i forgot to mention that. Stock pathy amperage is 70. I didn't have a v-belt strap, so I just walked down to the mechanic shop down the street form me to get the pully swapped, no charge at all

I would highly recommend for anyone who is running a e-fan or offroad lights to upgrade their alty because this not only causes havoc with your electrical system, but the tranny can be affected as well and can lead to damage, like what happened to me pssd. Tools required: Ratchet 12 mm socket 10 mm socket Phillips head screw driver The process to install the new alternator is pretty straight foward, and a direct bolt on. First thing you want to do is look for your donor, the alternator that would fit into your 86-95 pathy would come from a 85-94 maxima. Make sure that you are getting one from SOHC maxi and not a DOHC, especially with the later year maxi's. Here's the diffrence: As you can clearly see the mounts have diffrent angles. The other between the two is that the DOHC generates 5 more amps than the SOHC. This is the diffrence between a pathy alty and a maxi alty: The maxima alty is slightly more beefier than the pathy. Ok, if you decide to get your donor alty from a J/Y, then having it tested out at autozone or checker is recommended. First thing's first. Disconnect the positive lead on the battery. Unbolt the tensioner bolt with the 10 mm socket and with the 12 mm socket unbolt the bolt holding the alty in place to the tensioner to remove the belt. unbolt both the two bolts that hold the alternator to the engine block with the 12 mm socket. I would recommend to remove the back bolt first, and then remove the front bolt, while holding the alty with one hand. Once you have removed all bolts, wiggle the alty slightly to remove from block. Disconnect the pos lead to the alty with the 10 mm socket and remove the ground with the screwdriver. It the screwdriver does not help, then you may want to use a smaller socket, I think it was a 7mm, don't remember. Remove last plug in harness. Take the both alty's to a shop where they can swap the pulley for you, unless you already have air tools. Once the pullies are swapped, take the maxi alty and install all factory wiring again. Start by reinstalling all engine block mounting bolts, do not tighten yet. Install the tensioner to the alty, along with the belt. Tension the belt acocrdingly so it is nice and snug. Tighten all mounting bolts, reconnect the pos lead on the battery and start the pathy! Here's some pics of the alty installed: Over all the swap should take about 30 mins or less. I'm pretty impressed with the upgrade. The tranny problem i had started when I installed an e-fan and ended when I upgraded.

When I installed the msd, I installed the killswitch how the instructions showed you. It's worked on me cause I forgot I left it on and when the engine doesn't want to turn, I remember to flip the switch.

Ok new update. Tranny needed to be rebuilt along with the t-converter. One of the planteries was done for along with the one of the bands that was in pretty bad shape. seals were replaced too. Kind of think of it though, i think that this was kind of inevitable due to my earlier problem with the tranny that was associated with the alternator. For those who don't know what I'm reffering to here please read this: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9741&hl= due to the erratic nature of this problem on the tranny, I don't think it was going to last me that long though; even with this being an electrical problem.

Oh yeah, forgot that there was 3 bolts holding the alty in place. not counting the tensioning bolts.

just gonna have to wiggle it around. Mine was kind of stuck when I took both bolts out, but managed to pull it out.

Ditto

Cool that's one way to check this out. I took it to a shop and they didn't find anything wrong with the tranny, all the gears and internals are fine, checked the hoses and there are no ruptures; he was going to check the sensors today, but I'll let the mechanic know about the t converter.

I know you guys are gonna hate me for this but I got the flowmaster for $75.00 at a local shop and I went down to mexico for the install with piping for only $40.00. Oh and BTW, they did a really great job at it too.

Thanks for the advice, so I shouldn't have very little hope that the tranny made it out alive then, right? Hopefully it's just a seal, but if not then I'm gonne have to go to the junkers and find another tranny. The dipstick does show some fluid, but it also looks a little foamy. I changed the fluid back in august IIRC and with 3 engine oil changes since then, I hardly think it even got to another 15k so i can change the tranny fluid again. I'll take some pics, just got to warn you that it's little messy from both atf and motor oil since my rms needs to be changed out too.

dude, take a look at your stock muffler. You need a flowmaster with the offset outlet, if you want to keep the stock specs, to get stock measurement just try to measure the inside of the exhaust pipe. As far as the hf cat, get one with the same measurement of the muffler.

Ok, checked the drive shafts and they all are in good condition. I noticed that the tranny pan and the passenger side tbar has atf all over it. can a busted tranny oil pump be the cause of this problem?

Well the thing is that I haven't been able to shift in to 4wd since my wife took it to the dunes. I noticed that the hubs didn't want to lock up. I figuered that the rings would have needed to be repaired, so I just figuered I get it checked out when I take it to the suspension shop when I get the bj and cv boots on. I put in in 4hi then 4lo and no movement at all. I placed it back in 2hi and moved the gears around and nothing. I can hear the the tx case shifting into 4wd but it just doesn't lock. How can I check on the u joint?

So I was driving to work today and was passing a tractor, when all of a sudden I heard a slight pop. Tried to accelerate and nothing. So I let the speed I was driving in coast me to the side of the road. Took it out of gear to parking, shifted to reverse, nothing. Shifted to drive, nothing; shifted to 1 and 2, yeah you guessed it, nothing. No movement at all. Now I've done some research in the garage and it seems that reverse is the first thing that goes out on our tranny's, but the case was that my tranny went out when i was driving it at about 50 mph's. Anyone has any suggestions?

For cams, try http://www.schneidercams.com/. As far as the cv boot is concerned, try this linky: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=255, your most likely going to need to remove the cv axle to replace the boots, unless you want to go the cheap way...ductape