solid snake

Does anyone know of a good website where I can buy relays? I only need 2 and most of the websites I go to only sell in bulk. I found some on ebay, but I really want to shop around. Just in case anyone might have any, I am looking for a 4 pin, 50 amp relay. I tried autozone and checkers, but they hardly know what they are doing there.

Could be, you might as well check the pos lead from the alty to the battery, the main wire. It can be bad as well and needs to be replaced. Especially if there is corossion on the lead.

Same way you got it out

Trust me there is a way to push it thru. The shield that 88 was refering to is that "stupid bracket" in your pic. I replaced my starter with out taking anything off. Like I said, try rotating it around, I think you have to place the shield between the oil tranny lines and the sway bar to push it thru.

Welcome to starter replacing hell. I spent close to 4 hours trying to pull that freakin starter out. I don't remember correctly how I did it, but you have to rotate the starter until you find that sweet spot to push it thru. The guys with Body lifts will start bragging, I can already hear it.

Whoa sounds like you have your hands full. Well as far as time, I wouldn't worry about getting it done under a certain time limit, especially when changing the timing belt, this is something you want to take your time on doing and not rush cause timing is everything on these engines. Make sure that everything is in place correctly. As far as oil is concerned, it depends on what you want to run and the type of area you live in, cause temperature is a factor. The manual recommeds 5w30, I run 10w30, 5w is too runny for me. If you can run synthetics, that would be great. I would reccomend 3 1/2 quarts of oil. For the head lamps, there have been a problem with the actual switch for the lights that is mounted on the steering column. Take the plastic cover off the column and then unscrew the switch from the column, unhook the harness and clean the contacts, this is a temporary solution. There's a thread about rewiring the headlights in the garage section.

Huh, when i first bought my pathy, I was inspecting oils, air filter, and plugs 1-4, and decided that they were good. When it was time for a tune up, I changed the oil and filters. Some thing needed some work, so I decided to take it to the mechanic and asked him to change out the plugs. Well, when it was time to change the plugs again, I got to number 6. Pulled it out, and plug had some rust. It came to my surprise that no one had changed this plug in a long time! I was pissed cause no one ever changed it, and even the mechanic didn't change it. So moral of the story, DIY.

Ask and you shall receive:

Well, other would suggest headers since tha manifolds themselves can warp. But if you are able to fix it with new studs, then take the cheaper route. These mods are deffinetly a DYI project, so you can save money on labor costs. As far as the seals, do it for cheap insurance for the future.

Dude, it doesn't have to cost you that much. May be about $500.00 with what you have mentioned already. First off, like 88 said, fix that coolant leak. I would recommend to replace the hoses lower upper and upper bypass hose to cover your butt. If the temp sensor is working, obviously becuase it was showing you that you were over heating, why replace, instead replace thermostat. Timing belt starter, and may be consider headers to replace manifolds. Upper hose: http://www.autozone.com/R,APP1040719/vehic...oductDetail.htm lower hose: http://www.autozone.com/R,APP1045460/vehic...oductDetail.htm Bypass hose: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....065&PTSet=A Thermostat: http://www.autozone.com/R,APP79374/vehicle...oductDetail.htm Water pump: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....=54&PTSet=A Timing belt: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....161&PTSet=A Starter: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....123&PTSet=A Headers you can order from summit racing for a set of thorleys about $350.00. There you go just did the shopping for you!

Or you can always try to have some one accelerate while pressing the break, while you check to see if both rear tires spin at the same time, incase you don't have that orange sticker.

It would be to your benefit to pull both heads just in case. As far as the headers are concerend, if you get slick's set, I would suggest for you to replace the exhaust manifold studs and install the exhaust manifold gasket before installing the heads back into the engine, space is very limited in the engine bay and it's a pain in butt trying to replace studs while the head is in the eingine. It is do able, some other members have installed headers themselves, slick and I included. If you take the route I recommended it should take you about 3 hours to install headers once you have the heads on the block.

why not just swap that entire head, to avoid the guess work?

Dude, I think that this is the same problem that you are having here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14586. One thing I would mention to check as well is the connection to the MAF sensor. It has been a culprit for many pathy owners on the board. Sometimes my pathy for no reason what so ever would idle very low and sound likes it wants to shut off, kind of like a lawn mower too. I press down on the harness and it idles back to normal.

I agree with MWS here, I would really recommend for you to find out what is going on with your truck. Do us a favor, first find out what is really going on with the truck before you start spending money on things that you don't need. If a broken cam would have been the problem, then you should hear some really weird engine noise coming from the heads. If the tensioner is borken, get it fixed and TDC'd, hopefully this should fix your problem. Bad timing would cause your truck to either run sluggish or with more power, trust me I know. I had a problem with the timing when i was replacing the rotor in the dist...long story. I accidentally moved the timing on it and it made my truck feel alot more peppier, sadly it couldn't go past 50 mph. Got it TDC'd and problem was gone.

Ha, I'll be cheap and use cardboard and paint it up, secure with crazy glue!

I don't want to

4 all 4 boots, about $70.00, from autozone: http://www.autozone.com/N,11200025//shoppi...peResultSet.htm both lower bjs $70.00: http://www.autozone.com/N,14600206//shoppi...peResultSet.htm Yup 4 tre's are $100.00: http://www.autozone.com/N,14600194//shoppi...peResultSet.htm

Not really, I have only done a few out of what I listed

Oh man, I'm planning on replacing uppers, lower, cv boots (all 4 of em), brakes, tre's, tk1 mod, and alignment. Man this is gonna suck on the cost. already have the upper bj's lifetime warranty on front disc brake already have brake shoes for rear lower bj's $80.00 cv boots $60.00 tre's $100.00 and I'm still trying to calculate tk1.

As far as the plugs are concerned, many would suggest changing every other oil change, but if you end up going with NGK's Iridium, like I did, I plan on keeping them for at least 6 months before changing out. I read somewhere that they have a life time replacement? Don't remember. Wire set, has been recommended to be changed every year. Things i would suggest to change in order to have good fuel economy: PCV valve O2 sensor plugs wire set air filter gas filter clean throttle body clean MAF sensor change oil use a good fuel injector cleaner if you haven't done so, or don't remember when it was last replaced, change timing belt thermostat radiator hoses upper bypass valve, look next to the distributor cap and rotor replacement for distributor keep tires properly inflated change tranny fluid and filter. I think that this is pretty much it.

In the front of the pathy, where the lower a arms connect to the cross member, there are 2 bolts on each side that need to be re tourqued so the popping would stop. I can't remember what ft/lb you need to re tourque again.

Updated!

Cool, let us know what you can come up with if you can use the last TT's for VG30e. Once your done with it, post a write up.

Well, I also switched batteries, my friend let me borrow his, hooked it up and it was fine at first and was a little hesitant to turn on, then she did and now it's not turning on what so ever. Not even a click coming from the ignition.