solid snake

Hello all my NPORA peeps! I need help finding a gremlin. Every time I turn on te a/c my battery gets drained. What I have done recently is that I had to replace the oh so beloved upper bypass hose. That in its self was a freakin chore. I think I would have wanted to change my starter again than do that, I do not have a body lift mind you. Anyways, I disconnected the temperature sensor connector, that yellow connection that is behind the rear timming belt cover, I took the distriubutor cap off, and disconnected 2 ground leads that were screwed on to the intake manifold, toward the top of the UBH. When I was done replacing the hose, I lost one of the screws that goes to the ground lead on the intake manifold. What I eneded doing is putting both neg on one screw, put everything the way it was and that was that. Now everytime I turn on the a/c my battery is drained. Does anyone know what the negative leads are from, if they are from the a/c, by putting both on one screw, is that is what killing my battery? What I'm gonna end up doing is replace the battery cable, cuz I know it's in pretty bad condition. But this is all I can think of, the alty is good, it charges the battery good, when ever the a/c is off, the starter was replaced a few months ago, and besides, whenever there is juice in the battery it fires right up.

I would try to milk the most you can from the insurance and get another pathy that doesn't need alot of work. Keep the current, just in case some parts are starting to go and you can quickly replace.

Does it still have the stock alty? If it does, your only getting 75 amp to power everything, including the fan. Depending on how many amps the fan pulls, the alty may not be putting out much amparage to power everything else. Try upgrading the alternator, hopefully this will fix your problem.

Very sweet JJ. So does this mean you are willing to hook us up with porting and polishing at a NPORA members discount price?

At least its good that a newbie is using the search function!

Sorry I assumed that you had an automagic. This is how I figuered I had an lsd though.

How about accelerating while pushing on the brake, while some one checks for both rear tires to spin? If you have the orange sticker, then it is 100% likely that you have the LSD.

Keep us posted on this one, hopefully you can find a solution to this.

Ooh, that same thing happened to me earlier this year. The tranny didn't run, basically it was the tc that was gone and I went ahead and replaced the pump and some of the more worn out components as well. Check this out: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=13458&hl=

Thanks everyone for your help. I opened the panel and started sparying lube like crazy on the lock mechanism and the key hole, problem gone!

Hey how's it going everyone. I am having trouble turning the driver side key hole, I need to use both hands in order to open the lock with the key. Does anyone of a cheap fix for this?

I know how you feel. We got kicked out of a great place to off-road that is about 5 minutes from my home. That place was great, cause it was sand dunes and some look like a real challange to climb. The reason why there was no offroading allowed was because it was native american land. There was another spot called jack rabbit trail that's about 10 minutes away and we all got kicked out of there too. I have no idea why, it wasn't as great as the one closer to my house, but it was still a trail.

Does anyone know of a good website where I can buy relays? I only need 2 and most of the websites I go to only sell in bulk. I found some on ebay, but I really want to shop around. Just in case anyone might have any, I am looking for a 4 pin, 50 amp relay. I tried autozone and checkers, but they hardly know what they are doing there.

Could be, you might as well check the pos lead from the alty to the battery, the main wire. It can be bad as well and needs to be replaced. Especially if there is corossion on the lead.

Same way you got it out

Trust me there is a way to push it thru. The shield that 88 was refering to is that "stupid bracket" in your pic. I replaced my starter with out taking anything off. Like I said, try rotating it around, I think you have to place the shield between the oil tranny lines and the sway bar to push it thru.

Welcome to starter replacing hell. I spent close to 4 hours trying to pull that freakin starter out. I don't remember correctly how I did it, but you have to rotate the starter until you find that sweet spot to push it thru. The guys with Body lifts will start bragging, I can already hear it.

Whoa sounds like you have your hands full. Well as far as time, I wouldn't worry about getting it done under a certain time limit, especially when changing the timing belt, this is something you want to take your time on doing and not rush cause timing is everything on these engines. Make sure that everything is in place correctly. As far as oil is concerned, it depends on what you want to run and the type of area you live in, cause temperature is a factor. The manual recommeds 5w30, I run 10w30, 5w is too runny for me. If you can run synthetics, that would be great. I would reccomend 3 1/2 quarts of oil. For the head lamps, there have been a problem with the actual switch for the lights that is mounted on the steering column. Take the plastic cover off the column and then unscrew the switch from the column, unhook the harness and clean the contacts, this is a temporary solution. There's a thread about rewiring the headlights in the garage section.

Huh, when i first bought my pathy, I was inspecting oils, air filter, and plugs 1-4, and decided that they were good. When it was time for a tune up, I changed the oil and filters. Some thing needed some work, so I decided to take it to the mechanic and asked him to change out the plugs. Well, when it was time to change the plugs again, I got to number 6. Pulled it out, and plug had some rust. It came to my surprise that no one had changed this plug in a long time! I was pissed cause no one ever changed it, and even the mechanic didn't change it. So moral of the story, DIY.

Bienvenido a NPORA Miguel!

Ask and you shall receive:

Well, other would suggest headers since tha manifolds themselves can warp. But if you are able to fix it with new studs, then take the cheaper route. These mods are deffinetly a DYI project, so you can save money on labor costs. As far as the seals, do it for cheap insurance for the future.

Dude, it doesn't have to cost you that much. May be about $500.00 with what you have mentioned already. First off, like 88 said, fix that coolant leak. I would recommend to replace the hoses lower upper and upper bypass hose to cover your butt. If the temp sensor is working, obviously becuase it was showing you that you were over heating, why replace, instead replace thermostat. Timing belt starter, and may be consider headers to replace manifolds. Upper hose: http://www.autozone.com/R,APP1040719/vehic...oductDetail.htm lower hose: http://www.autozone.com/R,APP1045460/vehic...oductDetail.htm Bypass hose: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....065&PTSet=A Thermostat: http://www.autozone.com/R,APP79374/vehicle...oductDetail.htm Water pump: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....=54&PTSet=A Timing belt: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....161&PTSet=A Starter: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....123&PTSet=A Headers you can order from summit racing for a set of thorleys about $350.00. There you go just did the shopping for you!

Or you can always try to have some one accelerate while pressing the break, while you check to see if both rear tires spin at the same time, incase you don't have that orange sticker.

It would be to your benefit to pull both heads just in case. As far as the headers are concerend, if you get slick's set, I would suggest for you to replace the exhaust manifold studs and install the exhaust manifold gasket before installing the heads back into the engine, space is very limited in the engine bay and it's a pain in butt trying to replace studs while the head is in the eingine. It is do able, some other members have installed headers themselves, slick and I included. If you take the route I recommended it should take you about 3 hours to install headers once you have the heads on the block.