OldSlowReliable

anyone know if it matters what year?

When I got mine, they were like 23 each...if that...

x2 on new ones.....I installed em myself when I was 12....a 2x4 and less than an hour, and now it holds up just fine..

Done it to mine to check for codes (didn't realize I could just slide it) IDK how he knows, but I'm assuming he took it to a garage and they told him it needed a new one....all I know is its fully loaded w/moon roof, and it would make a nice DD, and has an alarm and such that will be helpful @ college... so it is really just plug n go? cool, hes asking a fair price, but my mom wants me to get it for 400 bucks and thats her only price....

Looking at this GREAT 95 pathy that the guy says all it needs is a new computer. Priced a few JY's and about average is 50, but some are 20-30....I figure I go over there (140 miles) with an ECU, see if it is the problem, then if it IS, I buy it and drive it @ college. If it ISN'T, I walk away... My question is, how hard is it to swap out an ECU and are there any special things like reprogramming the key fob, (it has remote start and alarm) and if it matters what YEAR I get... thanks again guys and gals

i think there may be a relay under the hood on the pass side fender.....not sure though

although I personally don't have daytime lights, and this may be a stupid/dangerous Idea....here it goes! I read an article in a 4x4 mag a long time ago on how to disable your ABS for offroad. It used two 1 blade adapters, a relay, and a switch and by basically running the switch between the two sides of the fuse port for headlights or whatever, you can control when they are on. Flip it on, and they do their normal thing. Turn it off, and they are off.. the only issue I forsee, is IDK what else runs off that fuse, so you could be losing brake lights, and other functions.

If I ever get another pathy for non-4x4ing just driving around, it would be a 5 speed....I can't STAND not having control of the shifting. If I had a manual w/33's it would probably be well mannered on the road cause I could control the rpm's and gearing, when it shifts, and be able to hold it in 1 gear on the highway instead of it jumping around.

I think a brake may have gotten stuck which was causing the pulling while on clean roads, I know for a fact I have a sketchy caliper in the front (or atleast I think I know) I got the alignment @ sears the day after I got my new tires on(mid october?), along with new TRE's and sleeves all around.... Haven't cranked the T bars atall since the alignment...and I have the stats for the alignment so I think i'll take it to belle tire and have them give me the current stats (to compare) But, how would one wheel turn more severely than the other, but not be a-skew while straight? about the crowned road thing, yes, I was, and I know what your thinking....but it was a pretty severe pull which I've NEVER felt in the pathfinder on that road before...as its the main road running around my town and I travel it EVERY time I drive any car... school-wise.....I got rejected from MSU (going to appeal after I take the ACT again), accepted to EMU and Wisconsin-Stout, haven't heard from CMU, FSU, WMU, or Alma...so no, i don't know.

So today we had our first snow so its the first time in a while I've really driven the pathfinder significantly...and its acting odd.. First, for a fair amount of roadway, it was pulling to one side, so to keep going straight I had to hold it @ about the 11 oclock position or so...but the later it was able to stay on that same area of road with the wheel perfectly straight... And I noticed a bit ago that my drives side seems to be further out from the centerlink than my drivers side... so when its turned right, it looks like its turned MORE than the drivers side, while if I turn it left, the drivers side is more turned than the passenger... To me, this seems like something is wrong with the drivers side tie rod, as in its bent making it shorter....what you think?

I just fixed mine by putting a small rectangle of masking tape (1/8" thick or so) and taped it to the drivers door where it connects with the sensor......

there was a 90 2dr with the vg30e for sale just south of me.....ooh it was perty

Those $149 headers look promising (cheap, lol)0 I pay around 400-500 bucks every six months for PLPD on the pathy and my malibu for myself....

x2 on skidplates, nothing like 1/2" steel or anything, but a nice simple no frill transmission/oilpan skidplate would be cool I would probably buy one of these if someone made em (its so you can safely run a harness) http://www.xtremerallytuning.com/prodimages/Sparco%20Subaru%20WRX%20STI%20Harness%20Bar%20Charchol%20li.jpg

theres SO much you could make for our community...cause not too many people DO...but the big factor as I mentioned above is gonna be cost, if you can make a comparable, good product for half the price, thats a LOT of potential

manufacturers recommend 8.5-11, and with an 8" wheel, it will hold the tire onto the wheel better in low PSI situations....plus, I've seen them on 10" wheels, and it just looks ugly, the tires don't look good, but for instance my BFG A/T's look HOT on a 15x8 wheel, just the right amount of sidewall curve

aren't you talking about a hitch-mount? what about those w/o a hitch (such as myself)

haha your funny... The idea I ahve came from another member's, but mine is a slightly bigger scale version...i'll have to go get some pics one of these days of the template I made..

"Would it be alright to run 33x12.5 tires on 15x8 wheels?" Yes, its just fine! (im speaking about the combo itself, not including any possible snag spots on your truck) infact, Belle Tire installed a set of brand new $1200 tires on brand new cragar 15x8, and didn't say anything about it except "man, that truck looks GOOD"

oh yeah, I've also been working on developing a winch mount that would bolt on to a stock truck without any modifications (aside from drilling four holes or so) just working out the kinks and mathematics... affordable aftermarket bumpers would be SWEET.....

I was thinking about trying to start up a rock slider business just the other day....if the materials are bought in bulk, there really isn't too much of a reason why you shouldn't be able to get a pair of basic 3/16" sliders for around 150.... Things I would prefer to buy from a distance vs building them myself or having a shop do em are- -Just a basic setup with like 2x4 or 1x3 as the main bar and be able to use it as a step, with options for body lifts... -A basic setup with a 2x2 main bar and get it nice and tucked up near the body (cost efficient) -The basic setup with the tube jut-outs that you mentioned -3/16" wall seems like a good idea personally, not so thick that it is HEAVY, and expensive, but thick to the point it is doing its job... -Be nice if they came assembled, but that may be out of the question for shipping purposes.... (even partly assembled would be cool, like all the welding done except for the risers to the main bar Basically, the big thing here is gonna be COST.....that's the only angle you would be able to beat the other guys on....is if you had atleast ONE template where you could get the cost down to around 150-200 (as in all the stuff is cut and ready to go, just gotta weld/paint)

I also found that it depends on speed a little bit, like where my speedometer was resting, it would sit in low rpms when the speedometer was @ or around 50 or 70 (which is not the speed I was actually traveling) so maybe it has something to do with that?

after 33's mine started doing that too, had to coax it into shifting or else it would rather sit @ 2500 to 3000....I wasn't too worried about it...

mine did that when I went through puddles too fast, I assumed it was water in the exhaust...

not really.