OldSlowReliable

I had, and was using the correct one, and it twisted right out....plus, I need to find a replacement for this one, because the only junkyard with a bounty of these is 180 miles south (at my dorm residence) and this needs to be drivable for my mother all winter, starting when I leave..

Mine are the black ones...and I filed off the coating before I welded...the weld never broke at the bolt, it either snapped between the two surfaces, or sheared the bolt... I'll try the cut-slot idea first, then go from there...but Idk, this bugger is really in there... anyone know the stats on these bolts? I wouldn't mind replacing them with something with a hex head while I'm in there...

Atleast then I could get a fresh surface to work from...as in weld a nut completely to the shaft, I can only get about 1cm of weld surface the way I have it now..

If I cut the head off with a grinder, I always do it horribly, will end up cutting into the hub, and probably fusing the bolt shaft to the hub surface. If I drill out a bit, I most likely won't do that...but it will work by removing the head?

I don't really want to get pb blaster on it in the event I need to weld more I'll try it, I tried putting another one in there, and it just twisted out the same.. Would drilling the head off work? as in, could I then remove the hub and finish from there?

Doin pads/rotors/bleeding this weekend while i'm home...ran head first into a bad headache... I'm not used to having to remove all the hubs and stuff....all the cars i've done brakes on, the rotors pop off when you take the caliper off, and are held on by the lug nuts...as you know, the pathfinder isn't like this.. I got 5/6 allen head bolts out of the hub assembly, and removed all 6 of the hex head bolts that bolt to the spindle through the rotor.. the 6th hub bolt is stripped by the allen wrench, and the wrench just twists out of it when I apply force...I had put wd40 on it already which is how I got the other 5 out... I can't get a good grip with vice grips, and broke off a drill bit and an ezout while trying those.... Went and grabbed my welder out of the storage unit, Either my weld breaks, or the bolt breaks every time I try and get it.. Wtf should I try? I need to do the brakes one way or the other...and I'm pretty sure I got a little weld splatter on the rotors anyways. Tomorrow I'm going to go at it with a drill bit the size of the shank, so I can get the hub off, maybe grab it with vicegrips once the hub is off and the shank exposed? Thoughts are appreciated

if you're going to smear stuff on your windows...try regular old shaving cream, I use that on my motorcycle helmets to stop them from fogging up in cold weather..works great

change it from interior circulate to the other one....alteast thats what always works for me..

Mine were in perfect condition before my bodylift...wish I woulda kept em after the fact..

Could you just put a push button switch somewhere connected to the fuse wires for the fuel pump? Just curious..

yes, you should do all the timing belt maintenance stuff while you are in there....save time much less prevent another bad repair..

In my experience, people who aren't used to driving with an lsd/locker will spin out easily (and even some people who know the truck) because they will be on a slick surface, and give it a little too much gas, making the lsd kick in and spin both wheels together, usually losing traction all together. Just a guess though

I just did front rotors/pads on my 98 malibu, and will be doing my pathfinder's front disc (and attempting rear drums) on thanksgiving break... the malibu had a factory issue with calipers, and destroyed the rotors/pads, so I had to replace them completely. I used the cheapest rotors w/a 1 year warranty from Autozone, and got their duralast gold ceramic pads for $50 for the entire front end. These come with a lifetime warranty. I have noticed somewhat of a soft pedal, but its probably just a matter of getting used to bad brakes.. Other than that, they are SILENT, brake very smooth, grab AWESOME, and will make the tires howl if you so desire while breaking. I'm not so impressed by the rotors, they look ****** (easily flash-rust) but work just fine. For $100 out the door, I'm very happy..and considering my truck gets 3k miles a year if its LUCKY, and won't be getting more than 1 or 2k for atleast 3 or 4 years... I'm not too worried about getting less-than-invincible brake components (i.e. 100k mile pads/rotors type of thing)

It does make snow-donuts alot more interesting! I can get spinnin pretty nice!

My LSD is a dream....couldn't imagine anything different... However, my family has spun out the truck in winter because they are used to WJ's and things w.o lsd's and such

and its not like they are terribly difficult to do...lol, I've welded zerk fittings in plenty of applications, if you don't know how to use a tap/die set

Yup...my RC/SL uca's came with zerks, I put them facing the wheel (out of stupidity) so I can't grease em w/my gun, but the oil change places will do it if you ask...I don't squeek after they finish doing it

I did that, and it said is was on empty... the gas just made it difficult for me to lift the tank back in because it would slosh around and kick itself off whatever I had it on...

On my rust-eaten truck, mine did take a bit of effort w/the breaker bar, but nothing too bad, and they didn't break... 1- Unscrew carpet retainers in back cargo area 2- Remove fuel pump access cover 3- Start the truck, and pull out the fuel pump fuse, the truck with stop running. 4- Suck the gas outta the tank (or use one of those special pumps...if you have a couple extra bucks) 5- Disconnect fuel lines and fuel pump wiring harness via access hatch 6- Unbolt the mounting screws that hold the skid plate, remove skid plate 7- Remove your last mounting bolts, either do what I did *lay on your back and use your legs to hold it up) or figure something out with a jack to help you not drop it.. If you don't remove the gas, it will be impossible to get it back in, I tried with a multitude of contraptions, but just sucked the last 4 gallons out, then it went straight in

I put LED's up front with my new bumper...I love em....much better than stock, and the double flash really isn't that bad.... I'm willing to live with it honestly lol

Make it. Mine only needs a small modification before it is winch-capable

That'll happen with stiff short springs... the trick is soft long springs to get the same lift but not "drop a spring" on big articulation.. You won't likely hit full extension on the street, but offroad you run the chance of dropping it... You can either get softer springs, get spring retainers (DIY job), or just put em back in if they ever fall out..

You can start by not wearing high heels...i've found that always gives another inch or two for leg room whilst driving my 4x4....jk lol You could look & see how the slider attaches to the cushion, maybe craft some 2" tabs to move it back or something?

Yeah, I welded mine on, but wanna make sure they stay where they are incase of a big hit...so you just used a nice metal bit?