Mookie

As suggested, I'd replace that centre link too. If you happen to use 4wd you could find your steering quite wonky and almost unpredicatable on snow if the centre link is badly worn. The O2 sensor change is good to. Mine went out on me 3hrs after leaving Alberta for Ontario. Couldn't figure out why I was backfiring, sputtering, dies out on hills and headwinds...made for a long and frusterating trip! For the starting issue, have you tried the basics like checking your battery volts, cable connections? I'd run the codes to see if that shows anything like a crank angle sensor for example. Going through the sSates and cutting up or through Ontario on the way out?

Yes, and no. Normally, once the engine gets to temp, we have plenty of heat, but I found that on very cold highway trips, if my rad isn't blocked, I barely get heat until I slow down. You replaced your t-stat this summer didnt' you? Another thing to try is to bleed the air out. Just undo that little bolt on top near the firewall on the driverside.

Hey Eli, I get ice ice or hard packed snow in the vents too. Slip a piece of cardboard between your ac condensor and Rad. Cut a hole(s) in it for some air. (The poor mans winter front). That will give you your heat back for those highway drives.

Just a shot in the dark, but try and wiggle the ignition switch when the key is in. Mine did the same thing and it turned out to be a bad switch.

Good luck on everything. Keep us posted.

For the oil leak on the front of the engine, you may want to pull the timing cover off to take a peek. I've seen a pretty nasty leak from the Crank seal but it's not that common. As already mentioned, the puff of blue sounds like your rings are going. A headgasket leak would show more signs of white smoke out the tail pipe and you would see it on the oil dipstick.

Have the rear brakes been looked at?

That is a great read!

Good points mentioned here. I'll repeat a few: -Cooler time as many suggested. -Check the rubber shifter boots. Those hold a ton of heat out. Even one small crack will heat things up. -Make sure your heat shield is still attached to the Y pipe downstream from the flange. -If your vehicle is exposed to winter environements, make sure there are no holes in the drivers side floor board. -Leakage from the Y pipe flange will burn a hole in your floor board. You won't notice this with the carpet underlayment and carpet for quite some time. -I've read quite a few storys about fires starting from this leak, myself included. Long hill climb on the highway, smoke started to pour out of the vents, wha-laa! Floor carpet catches fire and one panicked Mookie jumps out cutting out the carpet and emptying the fire extinguisher. With the hill, my CB didnt' get the range for desperate calls for more extinguishers. Another reason why I got my Ham license.

Very nice. My Garmin is 3yrs old. It's old now compared to what's out now.

I see you already got the info from RAC Canada on the SOXC site.

Not being able to see what you are working with, I can only suggest to start visualizing what you will need to do. Hold the guard in place and start making cardboard templates out. It may require more fab work.

Basically you will have to build or extend your exisiting mounting points on your grill guard 3" or whatever the measurement is to make up the difference.

If I'm understanding the question, I think the question is how to fit the grill guard with a body lift rather than making a grill guard. If that's right, you will have to fab up some new brackets for it. If I read it wrong, then whoops.

From the damage done on the front end, you should take a quick peek at your oil pan to make sure it's alright.

I have one too. Alot fun! It also comes in handy for Trail Maintenance days when we have groups of projects and trucks. Just leave it on PA and you can monitor the project progress and any emergencys on trail. For club use, same thing. If one group is recovering behind or in front of the main group, at least you can run to the truck and respond when they ask how things are going and if you need another winch truck etc. But my hand held Ham radio recieves CB channels, so I mainly use that when out of the truck.

That's pretty much what I was getting when stock. Now it's 250km city and barely 300km highway- according to the GPS.

If you haven't already, run the codes. When mine did that, I thought timing belt too as I was happily driving along when the engine just died. Cranked over fine, but no fire. Turns out my problem was the Crank Angle Sensor.

Yippers.

I remember that video too from a few yrs back. Her name is Tracey and she drove her jeep back to town where a Pirate member took pics of it after talking to her.

It's the instrument cluster voltage regulator. There are a few post regarding this with a few more details. A search ought to bring those up for you. Btw, it's easy to replace - about a 15 minute job.

For me, I love the adjustability. On the trail I "empty" (lowest setting) the shocks. On the road I'm bumped up to 9 on the front and about 7-8 on the rear depending on the load I'm carrying. 99% I'm carrying tons of spare parts and tools so I'm usually setting the rears based on the type of road surface. Even with the settings on 9, I'm still rocking and rolling. Keep in mind, I sit up high with no sway bars and a very, very soft suspension. I need to put on my swaybars...guess that will be a next year project. DJ also reflects what others have said - settings around 3-4. RSX, no experience.

Where are you rubbing with the 31's? Front or rear? With worn or sagged rear springs, it's common to hit. I'd just replace the rear springs and that should get you back to stock height if you use stock springs. Using JGC or Ford coils will give you to much lift if you don't want to turn the T-bars. Yes, when doing a body lift you need to replace *all* body mounts. You can't just do the front only.

That's a pretty good price. You could try North Shore Off Road in Vancouver. http://www.nsor.com/. Hit the email price quote link as they will discount the price if via the net. Sometimes they can get good prices and it all includes shipping. Unless that's where you got the quote from... :o I got mine when Rancho has a buy 3 get one for free deal in the spring. Still came to around 400.00 dollars though. This was through a local 4x4 shop in town.

Welcome! If the R50's are like our older Wd21's ('87-'95 Pathys), did you put the tranny in neutral first before attempting to shift into 4lo? As I said, I'm not sure if this is required for the newer Pathys or not. Someone will correct me and point us in the right direction!