Mookie

I'd just by a length of fuel line hose - that should be fairly cheap.

It does sound like the water pump is about to go. Did you notice the temp gauge moving towards the hot zone yet?

Corey, common problem as our Pathys get older. Like k9sar said, look at the small 3-4" hose between the fuel rails. It's right by your distributor cap. Usually just have to tighten the clamps.

I'd also have to say N4W is a great site for what you are looking for. In the Calgary Nissan 4x4 club, we have 3 Sas'd Pathys and a couple of Sas'd Toyotas - not much floats around tech wise on our site because we're so small and all local. Actually, come to think of it, we just talk all about that stuff at wing night

My Hella 500's driving lights were somewhere around the 120-150.00 Cdn. I bought them for the same reason you stated. In combination with my high beams, I have them aimed to the left and right of my stock headlights so they light up the ditches when I'm on the highway. For trail, since I'm going so slow, I just use the Hella Fogs so everything is lit up directely in front of my bumper to the immediate left and right.

Do you want side illumination starting from your bumper going sideways, or do you mean side illumination further down the road on either side of your regular headlamps?

My CB pa is mounted under the hood passenger side on the firewall. Just under the hood hinge. I also loose some sound because it's under the hood and at the back. On the trail it's just fine for monitoring CB traffic. My amateur UHF/VHF radio pa I'm still trying to find a location. Probably up front outside hidden behind my front bumper skid plate.

-bounce- I'm around! The last 8-10 months have been extremely busy for me with work. I managed to pop in and do some quick reading, but not much posting. Looks like things are somewhat back to "normal" at work...fingers crossed, so you'll see me around.

I'm not familiar with the newer Pathy and the way their ECUs work. Is it possbile to reset and then run the codes again? And yes, I believe yours does have two 02 sensors. Have you tried and unplugged them and go for a spin to see if any noticable changes happen?

How are your plugs and plug wires?

Can't really add much more. I'm also thinking that a close inspection of the rear linkage and bushings is in order. Have you tried some measurements on the frame comparing it to the other side?

When my 02 sensor went, it caused problems you are describing under load. More so on the highway against headwinds, uphills, or anytime I'd have to really press down on the accelerator. During city driving, I wouldn't notice anything until the engine got to temp. So, since you are experiencing problems at idle, I'd also start at the MAF sensor. Like K9sar said, on our older Pathys, the ground wire was a common culprit so not sure if that applies to the newer Pathys. If you unplug the MAF, it will run very poorly, so not the best way to judge. Unless of course there is no change when you unplug it. The MAF is out of my area, so I'm sure the others will post up to correct me or to add!

Glad you're ok. There are a few pics of some Pathys that have had their tops cut off. Rob out of Eastern Canada did it after rolling his. He cut off the top and put a 6point (I think it was 6, could be more) cage in the back. Custom made a nice cover for it too. I believe there are pics of it maybe on the AC site or the N4W site.

Looks mean!

Before I Sas'd, I threw on the 35's with 3.75" back spacing just for fun. I had a 3" body and a 3" suspension. They fit just fine. Until you hit a bump, entered a driveway, or turned. I hit a bump on the higway and the front fenders and the rears self cleared themselves. :o Just have to trim here and there. Though, re-gearing and new steering would be highly recommended as things won't last very long with 35's stock.

How about a 'guest' Pathy on one of your runs? Will be driving out again next summer for family visits to the Guelph area.

When I used to have a 3" on, I barely noticed any body roll from stock.

It doesn't take much of a drop in fluid level to trigger the light. Topping it off should do it.

You should be able to undo the bolt in the middle and tap out shaft. What end did you move? At the top? Btw, this is what everyone does rather than use the extension that comes with the kit if one did come with the kit.

I'm going on year number two that my half door project is being pushed. Seems to always find it's way to the bottom of the list! I'm also going to try and have a removable top half window that I can somewhat seal. Our transit roads in between trails are incrediably dusty...after a weekend of wheeling with normal doors, you are coated in dust.

On my old Pathy, I just relaced the stock 1156 socket with a 1157 socket to hold an 1157 bulb (dual filament). Ran the stock wires up to it and done. There are other ways of doing it to (search on the other Nissan boards). I just used my dremmel to make the hole for the socket a little larger to fit the 1157 socket in. Now people can see my signals flashing from the side like most newer vehicles do.

Must be because I just woke up...groogy head Not sure what you mean by "if you drive on the highway"

When I had 31"s and 33"'s both on 15x8, I'd go as low as 8-10psi if the trails were funky enough. If things weren't to bad, the average was right around 18-20psi. Winter runs have to be careful as ice tends to start the leaks so depending on the trail, you'd find yourself airing up pretty quickly. With my 35"s on 15x10, I just air down to around 20psi average. It really depends on what type of trails and the conditions of the trails and how you drive.

As said by jj, since you are planning to trade it in, look for a used engine. See if you can find one locally. Check out the local papers and see if anyone is parting out a Pathy. Even some junkyards have engines they have pulled that would work. This would get you moving again for quite a bit less $$$.

That's close to a Jackpot! We rarely get in Pathys and HB's, so when they do come in, it's a fight to who can get there first. :o