Mookie

Search this board and other Nissan boards. Everyone who has done one does it differently depending on their budgets, 4 wheeling environment, fab and welding skills, etc, etc. To start, reading about Yota and 4 runner SAS's are a good point to learn and pickup on what is needed. Or, get a good set of tires and get lockers.

If you don't have AC, moving it to or behind the glove box is quite simple. There is enough wire in the loom to reach except for the ground which you have to cut. If you have AC, you will have to be a little more creative. The tupperware route is good to, but I've read of some people having condensation problems with that method and others don't. Could also be climate dependent?

True, but once you lock them in, you can shift out and back into 4x4 at any time.

Great place to live! I bet you see a ton of rigs around your area eh? Do you have one of the steering upgrades? I'm assuming you're still IFS.

Not sure of the setup on the pre '90's but if you have an AC idler pulley, those can squeel like a pig when they go.

I think I'd get a 2nd opinion. Are the growling sounds constant or do they vary with your speed. What happens when you are driving and you put the tranny in neutral?

If my poor failing memory recalls correctly, I believe he ran his lines thru that plastic conduit you use for electrical wires.

My friend has the in cab controls for his Rancho 9000's. He loves it. Since he just recently did a solid axle swap on his Pathy, he loves the almost instant control to tame body roll on the street. It's time consuming to run the air lines. I've seen half assed jobs and I've seen clean jobs. You really want to take your time at this point to do a clean install.

Like a few others have said, sounds more like the control arm bushings need replacing than the sway bar causing it. As stated also, the wagging or swaying is from the 'rear steer' of the rear axle moving around because of worn bushings. Much more noticable at highway speeds.

I welded on some tabs on each side of my roof cargo basket and used a couple of tractor floods. Great for turning tight corners around trees during night runs and for setting up camp in the dark on those weekends when you leave the city late after work.

If you don't want to go with AC and go with someone else like TMs body kit, you can pull one of your rear body bolts and take it to a bolt supply house and order them in. Or do what Jim did (I think this is what he did) and order the two longer bolts needed for '93's and up directly from AC.

Yes, the Harbody shifter lever is what you want. Now if I had the patience to grab one at the junkers, it would have been a whole lot easier

Intially I thought mine was ok. On the street on level ground, it would just barely go into 4lo. I found out on the trail that once torque was applied, it wasn't locked in enough and would just pop out. I had to bend it and notch the floor.

It's a toughy! I wrapped a rag around mine to protect it, then put vice grips on it to break it loose.

If you add a tranny cooler, most people by pass the stock one instead of running it in parallel as the reason stated by 88pathoffroad. For mounting, a popular spot is in front of the rad off on one side, or depending on the cooler size, in between the ac condensor and rad, or just about anywhere where it will get good air circulation.

Ahh, ok then. Check right around the sending unit. I think there are posts about this. Try a search under fuel smell or fuel leak.

If it's only on cold starts (usually the first morning start) you smell the fuel, check the little rubber hose about 4" in length that connects the two fuel rails. This is located just near your distributor cap. Usually by tightening the hose clamp will fix this. Another one of those 'common' Pathy things.

Removing it from the bottom is definitely the way to go. Though I do have a little more space to work with with the sas.

That is a great looking bumper.

Hey, I like my rear leafs... You can pretty much mount the shocks anywhere within reason. We did a rear multimount on Homer's Sas'd Pathy. 45 degrees for trail, pull the pin and put straight up and down for street. The EB's are a great resource...wish I had one!

Buy some 'dedicated' penetrating oil rather than using WD40. And then start soaking it for a day or so.

Some tire shops wont' mount a 10.5" width on a 6" rim. Most will though. All you need to do is run just a little less air pressure so the center's won't prematurely wear out. Just monitor the wear now and then. When I had 31's, (Pathy came with 235's) I like the 6" rim as I could air right down during winter runs.

Like 88pathoffroad said, 31's came stock on most SE and some XE's depending on the package bought. No problem fitting them. My SE came with the smaller 235's. Guess the original owner didn't want to shell out the mula for the 'big tire package' :o

I like to take mine on a trail now and then...