Mookie

Mine was alot! Lol. It really depends on the condition of the T-bars. You should be measuring as you go along to get the desired height. If you aren't already (but probably are) park on a level surface and then pick a spot on the frame (or another surface) and measure to the ground for both drivers side and passenger side. One side may need more turns than the other to get equal heights.

You would be replacing the newer MPI ('90-'95) with an older TBI ('87-'89). You would have to swap out ECUs, the wiring harness, etc, etc.

Same here.

It's common for either the drivers side or passenger side torsion bars to sag more than the otheras the years go by. When you crank them, one side may require more turns than the other to even it out as you know. If you are still having problems with one side sagging and not going any higher, re-indexing the bars should cure that hopefully.

Welcome, In addition to statikuz's post, if you have a Haynes or Chiltons manual, it will show you the steps. Like statikuz said, very straight forward. One thing to remember is to loosen the fill plug first before draining. That way if the fill plug is seized, it may take a few techniques to get it loose. This way you can still drive if loosening the fill plug takes longer than anticipated and you need your wheels.

I used a Dodge Caravan electric fan. Shroud/fan unit fits our stock rads perfectly. I paid a little to much for my adjustable thermo sensor. If I had taken the time and shopped around, or even mail ordered, I would have paid less...but I wanted to go wheeling right away.

I did a minimal install on mine so I'm not sure if it's worth the efffort unless you use an old AC compressor as you mentioned. On the good side, all the air lines are installed ready for a larger compressor and tank system for the future. I didn't use a York compressor or something similiar. I used a compressor out of a Caddy that was meant for airing up the air shocks. Because it's a tiny compressor, it's only good for airing up smaller tires. I used mine on my 35's and it starts to get warm. Combined with a small tank, it would be better. I took the air suspension out of my Subaru and will give that compressor and the tank a try as it's a bit bigger. It is handy however to just plug in your air hose, flip a switch and walk around to all your tires and air up. If you have a quadraflate, then it's a cinch.

Do you get swaying at highway speeds when you are not braking? Could be the rear link bushings are gone.

Yes. Alot prefer to use the 8" width as opposed to the 10" width with 12.5". There's the always ongoing debate of which is better.

I used to take mine to "tire" stores that had alignment racks. I'm surprised that Sears couldn't do it. I know of a few folks that have suspension lifts that use Sears for their alignments. Could be specific to the store/region and their equipment maybe? You may also want to try shops that specialize in Trucks. The last place I took mine before I started to do it myself, was a 'big truck' place. They were good at resolving problems rather than staying bound within specs.

Welcome.

Great write up! Like the pics. I guess I remove mine a bit different. After draining the oil, removing the oil filter, and undoing the starter bolts and wires, I just slide the starter forward as far as it goes, then back and up along the inside of the passenger fire wall. Takes just a few minutes to remove it. The trick is to wiggle it up and out. My starters kept filling up with oil and then I'd have to clean them out to work...so now I carefully cover the starter with a plastic bag when I do oil changes 'cause I always seem to be messy no matter how careful I am. :o

Search this board and other Nissan boards. Everyone who has done one does it differently depending on their budgets, 4 wheeling environment, fab and welding skills, etc, etc. To start, reading about Yota and 4 runner SAS's are a good point to learn and pickup on what is needed. Or, get a good set of tires and get lockers.

If you don't have AC, moving it to or behind the glove box is quite simple. There is enough wire in the loom to reach except for the ground which you have to cut. If you have AC, you will have to be a little more creative. The tupperware route is good to, but I've read of some people having condensation problems with that method and others don't. Could also be climate dependent?

Welcome!

Welcome!

True, but once you lock them in, you can shift out and back into 4x4 at any time.

Great place to live! I bet you see a ton of rigs around your area eh? Do you have one of the steering upgrades? I'm assuming you're still IFS.

Not sure of the setup on the pre '90's but if you have an AC idler pulley, those can squeel like a pig when they go.

I think I'd get a 2nd opinion. Are the growling sounds constant or do they vary with your speed. What happens when you are driving and you put the tranny in neutral?

If my poor failing memory recalls correctly, I believe he ran his lines thru that plastic conduit you use for electrical wires.

My friend has the in cab controls for his Rancho 9000's. He loves it. Since he just recently did a solid axle swap on his Pathy, he loves the almost instant control to tame body roll on the street. It's time consuming to run the air lines. I've seen half assed jobs and I've seen clean jobs. You really want to take your time at this point to do a clean install.

Welcome to the board Nice Pathys. What part of Alberta? If you're in the Calgary area you should come out for a few runs with the Calgary Nissan 4x4 club. We're also having the 2nd Annual Nissan Trail Jamboree in August. Trails from stock to wild...take your pick.

Like a few others have said, sounds more like the control arm bushings need replacing than the sway bar causing it. As stated also, the wagging or swaying is from the 'rear steer' of the rear axle moving around because of worn bushings. Much more noticable at highway speeds.