Mookie

You can keep the 15'' rims. Yes, you can go up to a 31" tire. (Remember, stock Pathfinders came with 31" tires as well as with the 28" tires so no lift required) Since you have the 28"s you probably have the chrome 15x6 wheels as opposed to the 15x7 alum. wheels). You can put a 31x10.5 tire on it. You may experience premature center tire wear but most just run them with less psi to combat that)

I've only towed upto 2000lbs when I was stock. It's easy to get going and up to speed, but it's the stopping you have to worry about and the 'pushing' in corners. If you have trailer brakes and use a lower gear descending down that hill I believe you should be ok - but... 31's will fit - they also come stock on Pathys. Mainly the SE's but alot of XE's came with 31's stock. If there is rubbing, then the torsion bars may have sagged and will require a few turns to level out the front.

They will all work. The auto linkage is cable with plenty of slack. The various makers just don't know that.

The Twin Turbo requires a huge amount of extensive front end work - cutting, moving, fabbing, etc. to fit it in. The single Turbo is easier but there are still a few mods to do.

On the sidewall of the tire is there some sort of psi numbers you can read? For 4x4ing, it will depend on what type of terrain you are on and what type of wheeling.

One of the guys that came to the Nissan Trail Jamboree installed his Snorkel (Navara) on his Xterra. I think the pain part of it is if you want to form it tighter to the top of the fender line. I guess they say to use a heat gun. He didn't want to risk screwing up and there is a slight gap, but most won't notice it unless pointed out.

I remember reading somewhere that the drivers side is for tying down and the passenger side is for towing. I've seen alot of people though getting another tow hook from a wrecked Pathy and putting it also on the drivers side frame as there are already threaded holes their.

Sounds like it could be the rear link bushings are gone. If you do a search in this forum and the garage, you will come up with some good info about this.

Your brake lines will be ok. However, your e-brake cables will be stretched at droop. You can use the lower bolt hole on the rear brackets and some fab up lower brackets for the front where it 'Y's". But, first and see how your e-brake lever is. If it's working 'normal' then just keep an eye on the cables at full droop.

I don't know his name, but he has a post on the AC board a few years back when he built it. I think he also built a custom rear one too.

Like the others have said, *Make sure they pull the plugs before any other attempt of turning the engine over* (That way when they do turn it over, water will be able to come out the plug holes...stand back though!) I've seen a few vehicle drownings and when the ECU went, the starter wouldnt work at all - meaning your starter is most likely fine. If there is any water in the cylinders and it does crank, things will bend/break fast as water does not compress so again, make sure they know how to deal with an severe water intake. Good luck.

If it stinks like rotten eggs, sounds like your cat may be plugged?

Have you tested to see if your stock clutch fan isn't slipping?

With the Stock front end, you have to baby it on hill climbs or anything that requires torque to the front end. Tie rod ends will bend fast and centerlinks will wear out fast. I bent my idler arm by sliding sideways on an off camber section. Do you have an idler arm brace? Check your idler arm to see if it's bent. The best way is to take it off and check because sometimes you can't tell until you put a straight edge against it. Once you lift the front end, the angles get tight as you know. Best solution is to lower it again an inch or so. Do you have new Upper A arms? The steering stabilizer woudn't have helped much as it's just the weak design of the front end. When I had IFS, my rule was as soon as the front tires started to spin I took a strap or winched through. To tired of replacing tie rod ends on the trail. On the straight and level trails, you can go anywhere. We have alot of cutlines with very steep sections so it was tough to always drive without hopping the front end.

What rims do you have now? Do you have the stock alloy lego or star wars style? From the picture as big_johnson stated, those are the steel chrome ones. However, they are only 15x6 as opposed to the 15x7 stock alloys. Not sure if that makes a difference to you or not.

Helps to have a buddy around. A second set of eyes watching the engine compartment for any thing that is being 'pulled' while you lift a side of the body up is always a bonus. That way they can yell 'stop!' so you can undo whatever line you forgot to disconnect

That's what I do. If I have done alot of water/mudhole crossings, I fill until all the water and contaminates come out.

I'm sure one of these days you just might find a good reason to justify some new wheels!

Welcome!

Sharp looking rig! Looking good.

Hi and welcome to the board. I think we need more details. What are you experiencing to conclude you need 'suspension work'? Rough ride, weird road handling, etc.? You can check the following to narrow down a few things: 1. Shocks -do they need replacing? 2. Torsion bars - are both or one sagging? Perhaps they need to be reindexed. 3. Rear coil springs. These tend to sag, tell tale sign is when you have rear passengers and you are bottoming out when going over bumps. 4. Rear control arm bushings...any swaying going on?

Yes, you should be able to get it aligned no problem with what you are aiming for. ...Whoops, back to original topic...

When I typed that out, I was just thinking what you said!

Just a tidbit of info, you can still get alignments with up to 2 - 2.5"" of T-bar cranks without new uca's. The angles aren't the best and that's where new uca's come into play. Just wanted to mention that new uca's aren't always necessary for an alignment.