Mookie

Nice upgrades!

Congrats!

I know you triple checked everything but it almost sounds like the belt is one tooth off. I've heard a motor run with a belt being one tooth off, and two teeth off. Sounds just like what you are describing, but it could be a lifter. Though, I'd check the tooth count between the pulleys once again just to rule it out.

That's the method I use too. Once in the center, it will just pop open with little effort.

Hello! If I'm not mistaken, the Blazer is a passenger side front drop. It will only work if you go with a divorced T-case (some use the Nissan 720), but then you are getting into a ton of more work. The more you modify, the more maintenance and debugging you have to do - which usually equates into a lot of $$ being spent. Keep as much as you can stock. As you know, I have leafs front and rear. I switched out my stock rear because of circumstances at the time I did it. Now, things are considerably cheaper, so keeping the stock rear is the only way to go. But I wanted 5.38s too Now, it's straight forward to do. Just cut of the brackets for the links and then weld on perches and hangers. You also have to do some fiddly brake line work, fab up new parking brake hangers and try to get the K5 parking brake system to work. You can always use line locks or a d-shaft lock, but those are more money and more fab work. I would say if you want to use leafs, use some that will offer the best solution to your type of driving and also what will offer the best to the compromise you want for streetability and for trail use. Match the spring rates. What usually happens with these sort of projects is a ripple effect - change one thing and you have to change another, etc. In a nutshell, leave the stock rear and save your self a lot of work, sas the front and you will find yourself wheeling much sooner. Hope this helps, I rambled but I'm headed into a meeting soon so no time to proof read.

Do a Google search and you should come up with a few write ups. Some of these guys have some decent pictures to go along with their write ups.

If your time frame is 2-3 weeks, as Pezzy posted, Northern Ontario is fantastic. edit: can't spell.

Nah, not at all :cool2: I've only seen once where it caused the pinion seal on the 3rd go all leaky-leaky.

You won't have any problems. There are a lot of Sas'd Pathys out there with no pinion correction for the rear. Before you get pinion angle problems, you'll hit the rear cross member first.

If you can. It is very loud in the cabin with the carpet removed.

iirc, what people use is the 90 degree gas elbow fitting. It screws right in.

5-speed - 3500lbs. Automatic - 5000lbs It's just harder on the clutch so the 5 speed is rated lower. Up to you and how you work your clutch me thinks.

I'll have to double check my bumper and headlight heights once again. When I was pulled over the officer measured my bumper heights and lights, but only ticketed me for flares and mudflaps.

Got it, thanks!

I haven't heard anything about that. But that doesn't mean anything these days as I'm swamped with work and have no connection with reality. -bounce- I'll see if I can find anything. Definitely post up the reply you get.

Mine also does that. Perhaps a bad injector? I've yet to spend any time on it to diagnose.

Not sure if this was mentioned or not. The older Pathys have different mounting tans for the flares than the newer ones. The cut off date might have been '93? Meaning anything before '93 should fit... but I'm not sure. We tried to fit mine on a '93+ and the tab mounts were different. Maybe some can confirm this.

Run the codes if you haven't already. If the crank angle sensor is gone, it will show up in the codes. Mine was a similar problem... driving along, turned a corner and the engine cut out. Turns out it was the c.a. sensor.

Definitely make sure you wash the *inside* of your wheels like yozi posted. Mud or even ice stuck will cause your wheels to be out of balance.

I will spray mine with clean water after a nasty mud hole crossing and or if my charge light comes on. I use a hand pump fire extinguisher as they have a decent stream of pressure.

It's best to use an independent swr meter to tune. (You' want to measure the swr in your transmission line)

Mine is also on the tranny hump on the passenger side. I used to have it attached to the plastic just beside the rear hatch window. Depending on where the fire is, I realized that day that there was no time to get out and run to the back and grab it as the Pathy need to be stopped. I was trying to put out the fire as I was still braking to a stop. My feet were doing quite the dance. My carpet on the drivers side floor boards caught fire and then quickly spread as it started going up my aftermarket light wires and conduit and then into the dash. This was during a steep hill climb on the highway. My heat shield that goes above the flange on the exhaust below the gas pedal was missing. I've since replaced and have had no problems with heat.

Bought mine in the spring of 1999. I remember thinking I had at least a few more months of owning a vehicle from the same decade.

I bought a Moog. It bent on the gravel road on the way to the trail when I pulled somone out of the ditch and my front end slid sideways. :o The stock ones are better.

Since it happens when the engine gets to temp, I'm leaning towards the o2 sensor too. Does the engine completely die? But if you turn of key off and then start imediately, the engine fires back up? Any mis firing at highway speeds or under load like going up hills?