Mookie

Sounds like the headlight switch. There is a contact for each beam. A common issue with our Pathys. A search of Headlight switch will bring up a ton of threads on this. Like the others have said, a sodder break in the DRL will result in the passenger side light out.

I'm at 750 too.

It really depends on how one has setup their front end. Some can position their axle 1-3 inches forward and not move their stock steering box, while some need to move their steering box, or others use a Saginaw box instead. My first round of steering linkage with the axle forward had me using the Saginaw box. After debugging after a few years, I could have modified the drag link and pitman arm and kept the stock box. Lots of variables.

Not a good thing! Mud getting inside and jumping the belt has happened to one of our members in the Calgary club. It jumped it one tooth. Enough to keep running, but sounded like hell.

A guy in our club spent some time in a mudhole with his Pathy. After we recovered him, he had low idle and when he stepped on the gas, it was a bad, bad knocking-clanging sound. Turns out after thinking it was a bearing, the mud had gotten in behind the lower timing belt cover and filled up the cavity. It caused the timing belt to jump one tooth. Maybe check behind your t-belt covers. You never know.

Good to hear! Some people have luck by gently pushing the tabs down. Some don't. Depends on how bad it is. I just grab a few from the junkers if I see them. Ultimate would be to replace with new I s'pose.

I'd check the headlight switch if you've ruled out the bulbs. Common problem with the tabs needing realigning.

What else do you see when you look at your steering shaft from the engine compartment? Look at the Rag Joint to make sure it's still attached.

Most of the time just tapping on it with a hammer will get it to move. That's most of the time. Otherwise, it's a bit of a pain to get the shaft to budge. Since you read the how to, maybe you already did the hammer tap?

My old '90 has them too.

Don't suppose you have any pics of your tranny gauge install on the cooler lines? Oh yeah, nice to see you back!

I bought a non Nissan water pump when I did my first timing belt. It went bad a couple of months later and there I was doing the T-belt/Water pump change again. Now my rule is if it's deep in the engine, or a pain in the ass to R & R, I'll go with a Nissan part. Of course I've never ever had a problem with other jobber parts.

If it is indeed 11 volts, I think it would be a slow turn over or no turn over at all like you are experiencing. Mine won't start if it's below 12 volts. If you are using the stock gauge, then it could be off a bit. Verify with a volt meter at your battery terminals.

Did you mean to say 12 volts instead of 11?

Sirius for me. Just because I'm cheap and I could sign up under my brother and get the family/friend discounted rate.

Once the engine warms up and under load, a bad 02 sensor can do what you are describing. It may not throw a code. If it stalls at a stop light again, turn the key all the way off and then on again to start. It may fire right up...or not Also, throw a bottle of gas line anti freeze in just in case you had some water in the gas.

It looks like aren't using an idler arm brace? That would solve most if not all of your movement. With out the brace, even 31's will eat Idler arms when wheeling. Using the grade 9 bolt in place of the shaft, you are moving around your weak spot. Maybe not be best to do when it comes to steering? If you continue to use the bolt and then beef up the mounting plate, it could work, but then you might be transferring to another weak spot and could find yourself sleeving the frame because the bolts holding on plate are pulling, etc, etc. I'd put the stock shaft back in, use the brace and monitor the movement. I know the Moog arms bend quite easily. I bent mine doing a snatch recovery out of a ditch.

Man, I keep forgetting to check mine. *adds to weekend list*

As in my previous posts, this is what happened to me. Sometimes it would get so bad that coming off the off ramp, I'd be back firing, and then it would just stall out. Headwinds and hills were challenging. It was the 02 sensor.

That hose between the fuel rails - you need to tighten the clamps on each end to rule it them out as these clamps are prone to loosening up. A visual check won't do it.

Check out this: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...l=tranny+cooler

When my 02 sensor was bad, highway driving would do the same. I could drive for a bit, and then it would start bucking, surging, etc. Basically missing. Once I slowed down as I coming off the highway or to a stop, it would die. Turning the key off and then back on again to start the engine would usually fix it for a few more miles. If not, I'd have to sit for a few minutes. Mine didn't throw any codes for it, but have you checked just in case?

Just adding on to '88s' comments - Some people even pry the seal out of the retainer as they say removing the retainer disturbs the seal/gasket around the pan. I removed it all including dropping the pan as I had to replace all my leaking gaskets.

Check other sites like Ronin.com, nissan4wheelers.com for more info on Sas's. Search these sites as they have a ton of info. Probably keep you pretty busy. You will most likely find out you will change your mind a 1000 times on how you want to do your build. - but the more you learn, the more you will dial in your needs. There are a lot of misc items that will nickel and dime you through out the project. Brake lines, new front Drive shafts, shocks, rebuild kits, new tools, shocks, and a ton of other stuff. Just something to keep in mind for the budget minded person.

The '79 will most likely be drivers side drop. *Edit* - Oops, I meant to say passenger side drop . Sorry 'bout that. There will be more extras as you go along. Are you using part of the D21 kit, or having someone do the fabbing?