DavefromOZ

Does the Pathy have a sunroof? If so, check the drain line, they can get clogged up with crud and cause an overflow.

Heres what I had made up by the guys at work

It looks pretty good mate, I'd check to see how it runs, then just swap the entire engine over, that way you can take time to rebuild yours.

Nope, in the US.

I know there is a kit being worked on at the moment, should be commercially available as soon as the R&D is complete.

I was wondering that as well, but realised what the line that is "plumbed" into it is, that there is an improvised oil catch can.

My 93 Terrano has 162,000 KM, being a diesel, I think she will be running forever.

I have a buddy who is driving around with 4 studs on 1 wheel, I keep shaking my head in horror, but he hasnt had any problem, and he wheels it pretty damn hard. Should certainly be 'safe' to drive, but dont ignore the fact that its missing.

Yeah, I have seen the fix here before, I believe you can do it using a couple of washers. I tried to search, but I left my mind on the beach last night.

Hit up 4x4parts.com

I have a newspaper stencil that JADM4X4 drew when he had his winch bar off, not sure if its an ARB or TJM, but either way it will work. I think its still in the back of the truck, might drag it out tonight. and see if I can make sence of it if the dog hasnt destroyed it.

No doubt you could use just the factory bumper mounts, as long as your D rings are only for looks. Spend the extra time fabricating the lower mounts at the same time as the rest of the bumper, because if your anything like the majority of us, you wont get around (ie too lazy) to take the bar off again to do it the second time.

I believe you use the same mounting points on the lower frame as a brush guard, then also tie to the mounting points for a standard front bumper for the additional support. Thats how I am designing mine anyway.

Yours will be different to this procedure as you have a WD21, the standard R50 hubs are always locked.

As long as the cushion fits between the tranny tunnel and the door, you should be able to get them in. Easiest way to check, measure the distance between your tracks, then go to a dealership and see if you can quickly measure the R51 track. Will more than likely need to fabricate some brackets to fit them though, just make sure the brackets are done well, need to remember its your a$$ thats going to be at risk, literally.

Yeah, as said above, 1100 for an exhaust is crazy. I was just quoted $550 for a 2 1/2" exhaust with freeflowing muffler, and I live in the land where everything is more expensive than the US.

Without knowing what pucks are made of, I would be very wary of using them. I'm lucky enough to work for a company who has a CNC shop and who works exclusively with aluminium, so when we did mine it cost me $15.00 total, just had to buy the hardware. I didnt need to extend the filler or the vent.

My opinion, anything with a frame...

X 2

Not sure mate, but I have a similar problem, I just keep degreasing mine and topping it up. You just reminded me to see if a mate has one out of his parts bus still.

G'day Mullo, welcome mate. To me it sounds like you have a dodgy CV joint, not a dificult fix. Make sure you pop into the Aussie thread and say g'day as well mate, Cyril is in Newcastle and Stocktons is his regular stomping ground.

Arent the hubs on the caR50 always locked, there for the CV's always turning? Or is that the 99.5+ models?

The mudflaps are just screwed into them, had to take one of mine off after it got eaten when my tyre exploded.

I've only seen the ones that Pete posted here in Oz, same as the ones on my 93.

I would suggest its broken exhaust manifold studs, very common problem. Search is your friend here.