GrimGreg

I have that issue at times with dino oil. Use a clean dry rag, as soon as you pull it out grab the tip off the dip stick with the rag and the without moving open the rag and see where it is wet compared to your stick.

Uh, yeah, why it was enginerded the way it is.

Sure it is the synchros and not the clutch being worn out and not fully engaging?

I also agree on the torque wrench, especially if you are looking for under $100. I bought one of these: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944595000P on sale for $65 IIRC.

You can adjust the pin in the booster a little bit to get a little more pressure. If you are just doing the D44 front, you should be fine with the stock MC. It's when you go up to the D60s and such that tend to require the Chevy swap.

My pinion sensor has been shot for 4 years now, brakes work just fine, just no ABS. Which, I'm actually happier with anyway. The ABS on the Honda I used to have almost made me rear end someone on dry pavement. I would rather pump the brakes myself if needed than to have the vehicle think I need to when I don't.

Bad engine mount, tranny mount or out of balance rear drive shaft?

Either gotta buy new, or scrounge the Junk Yards for one to swap in. The PO of my 93 had it go bad at 75k miles and had the dealer swap a new one in.

Yeah a shifter fix is to take the knob off then put a bar over it and bend it as far forward as it will go.

I know a lot of people that do that with wheels and tires anyway. They run small street tires to the trail then swap on their offroad wheels/tires at the trail head or camp site.

The vaccum line.

I think that is an OK price.

Duh, it's the same tranny

Doesn't the GL-5 actually "eat" brass, which is the reason Nissan tranny s can't use it?

Waste of money so that you can have something mondane say "NISMO" on it.

Mechanical locker, $250-$300 depending where you buy. Air locker $500-$700 depending where.

Yeah, now they are going pretty good. They are a major sponsor of the NOAS club.

Yeah, unless you open the cap, any pressure ought to be disipating fluid into the overflow, not out around the cap. A new cap will probably cost you $3.50, cheap.

Just do a cone swap.

Did you buy the 40gig? My 80gig model will play PS1&PS2 games. No obviously "Nissan" copies, but Motorstorm is pretty good for an offroad racer.

I gave up on NFS games when they went ghetto with the "tuner" crap. #3 was the last one I bought. I'm sorry, but if I'm buing a racing game I want a Lambo or Ferrari etc. for what I'm racing around in, not a pink Honda Civic. I've been more into the Burnout series as of late. Let out a little frustration by seeing how big of a wreck you can cause is always a good thing!

Yeah, the closest to that was the 4x4 EVO I&II. What was lacking in those (besides needing a wider range of vehicles and styles) was the terrain to be more reactive. The terrain was "pretty" for a game of the time those were made, but nothing really changed unless you drove through mud, but even then it didn't develop ruts, just slowed you down and gave a splash animation. It would be nice to see something that took into account the actual dynamics of suspension systems and such like a GT game, or schooled you in how to drive like a GT game does.

Only the 2wd HB had that "lighter" setup on them. The 2wd Pathfinder just never got any front guts, but the same basic suspension.

Let's put it this way, at least go someplace deserted to do it so when your tire that isn't made to take the speed blows out and you flip 6 times and end up in the ditch; you are the only one you hurt. Race cars have roll cages in them because they have tires made to take the speed and still blow out on them, and you can't control the vehicle at that speed with a blown tire. When they roll that bar and all the other restraint systems keep the driver safe, your little shoulder/lap belt (though the DOT says otherwise) won't do squat for you.