GrimGreg

I might have a set of them in my part bin, let me check, if I do I'll gladly sell them as they are collecting dust now.

I hope that is only a temp fix?

Could be, it is actually a common problem with the VG30e to have the ground wire to the MAF break.

Yeah, it is usually a valve issue on the REs, but it is usually caused by part failure causing a debris clog. Reverse usues the highest pressure in the valves and if it goes out it is usually from reduced pressure (hence his tranny working when the engine is reved). You may disagree Igranch, but 95% if not more of the Pathfinders with dead reverse means paper weight tranny.

I didn't say welding it would be good for street use (or tire wear), but it is a cheap way to lock it up solid (cost of welding wire/rod).

Yep, I used permatex RTV.

Do not know what tranny the diesels got, but for the autos on our V6 gassers, if reverse goes out it means dead tranny.

I tried searching and can't find a good post on it. Quick how to: 1. Remove the bottom cover of your steering column (4 large screws, 2 small (by the switches)). 2. Remove the light switch (2 screws holding it in) and unplug it. 3. Take a flat blade screw driver and pry off 3 corners of the flat translucent plastic "cover" piece (look at the switch bas you'll know what I'm talking about). 4. now that the reeds/contacts are exposed, take some thin 100 grit sand paper and some contact cleaner and go to work (be very carefull when sanding, I usually stick the paper in then switch the contact closed on it and pull out the paper, takes a little time, but gets it cleaned). 5. flip the cover back over it and "pop" the corner pins back into it. 6. Put it back in place and the steering column back together.

Do you have front corner lights? If not, I bet it is your switch contact that needs cleaned. I think the proceedure is on the forums someplace for pulling and cleanning them. Basically there are 5 reeds 2 low beam, 2 high beam and 1 parking (dash, tail and corner marker) each with a contact on the end. Those contacts can get a carbon buildup on them and not complete the circuit well. Usually one of the headlight ones is the first to go. Some people just buy new rather than clean them, I've cleaned mine on my 93 twice in 7 years and it still works great, quick and easy, no $$ spent.

x3 count the spacing.

There aren't any factory amps in the pre 90s models AFAIK. If there is one, it will be mounted in the rear quarter panel inside from your gas filler (behind the plastic interior cover). Here is a pic of my 88 with the panel removed; you can see my rear speaker, then an open space, then the trany ECU in the next space then 2 more empty spaces. That last empty space is where they mounted the front speaker amps in tthe later models (the rear speaker amps were mounted under/behind the radio in the dash).

Yes And it's the 87-89 turbo that has the right rear end IIRC.

Cheapest is to weld it solid.... Next cheapest would be to buy an open diff for the rear (junk yard, classifieds/ part out on here) then install a lock right in that. Probably looking at under $400 depending. I have known a few people who made a deal with another to swap LSD for open straight across. Edit to add, unless you like to replace CV axels for fun, leave the front open. The rear is strong enough to take full lock and LSD lock up, front, not so much.

If you have the stock deck (went and pulled my 88's out of the closet), then there is a black ground wire in the bundle comming out of the back that should provide the electrical ground. There might be a chassis ground that helps eliminate noise by grounding the case, is that what is falling off? As for the sound cutting out after so many minutes, maybe there are some components that have gone bad inside the head unit.

Really? Just about every manufacturer of shocks makes one that will fit the front (and rear) of our trucks. BTW, I would almost bet money that it isn't your shocks causing your "wobble". You probably have a worn center link, tierod or idler arm bushing (maybe even ball joints) causing the wobble. So even if the shocks are bad, replacing them won't cure your issue. A quick basic way to test a shock is to push down on that corner of the vehicle, it should bounce back up, then settle level again, if the shock is bad it will continue to bounce a little rather than settling.

Calls out the wire colors and what they are, also gives pin location in factory harness: http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Nissan-Wiring.pdf

Not thicker, just a different formula of metal that won't crack.

I'll admit I have, but not to prove anything, just to goof off with a guy from work who ended up next to me at a stop light. Even at that I gave it about 5 rotations and stopped, not really a burnout, but enough to squeal the tires. While I don't think it stresses the truck much, I usually want my tires to last more than 1000 miles.

Yeah, that works for the 48" and 60" models, but his is the 72" (BTW our rear bumpers are only about 64" wide for reference).

Yes those, they are L shaped, flip down the one leg and pull it toward the center of the glovebox (should pull out completely), same thing for the other side.

Yeah, mouse trap would be the best, poison it and it might crawl back into it's hiding spot and rot away....

Yeah it is usually part# 80579 per the drawing. I got a similar part (not exact but has worked over a year now) that was labled for "Dodge" from the part store in the rack of "HELP" generic parts, think it was $2.50.

Was it a manufacturing, or installation issue?

Remove your glove box (feel for 2 little tabs on the bottom hinges, they pull out), then remove the metal plate behind the glove box (4-6 phillips screws), then remove the resistor (little metal/plastic thing dead center with a wire sticking out of the back) you should be able to see if there is any crap clogging things up from there.