GrimGreg

My Dodge mini-van was doing that, pulled open the panel and sprayed the mechanism and linkage with PB Blaster, works fine now.

I spliced the high pressure line right where the red arrow is on his pic up there, YES YOU CAN DO IT!

There isn't anything different in an auto, besides maybe an extra change tray between the box and the shifter.

Is the unibody warped?

Make sure it is the bushing and not the body that is loose. The body is splitting apart on my 88 right by the bottom corner of the hatch opening. You can see the tail light move about 3/4" when you open the tire carrier.

That is the main reason most people don't mess with it. If it were as simple (like with a lot of domestics) as pulling the chip out of a socket and pluging it (or a new/different one) back in it would be more common I would guess. There were 1 or 2 companies out there that would basically do what you are doing, but they made custom maps. You sent them your entire ECU and they pulled the chip, re-mapped it and sent it back to you for $300 or so.

Shove your Coke up your Search the site a little, cup holders tend to be an issue for a lot of us (myself not included). Some have added aftermarket ones in locations they feel happy with. Some are happy with the later model stock ones in the center console (some just bitch and moan about them). Others have been able to find the ones that were made once upon a time to replace the ashtray. Another solution, though a lot more involved, has been to make a Jeep or other brand center console work.

Rough Country, not over priced yet still enginerded right for lift.

Can you snap a pic of your wiring situation? Might help diagnosis. BTW, you can ground to the metal dash support just fine, no need running a long ground anywhere.

Use a knife and carve/scrape it off.

Do an intake and exhaust mod and it will get up and go very well!

I've been scoping the later R50 racks, the thicker ones that say "Pathfinder" along them. If I find a used one I might have to bastardize it for my 93.

Yeah, one nudge to another vehicle and they'd have to replace it.

I would never go to a Firestone shop around here, I know what kind of idiots they hire and have had friends with horror stories. Doesn't mean the ones in the next town aren't good. I know a lot of Nissan owners like them for the lifetime alignment, but I'll string mine before I took it to one here.

There is this thing they sell now that has numbers on it, they call it a "tape measure". It is really neat, if you extend it the length of your roof and read the number, then go to the junk yard and extend it beside a Rodeo rack and the number is the same then it might work .

I bought 5/8" and 1/2" when I did mine, the 1/2" was almost loose, and the 5/8" was too big. So I went with the 1/2". What kind of new hose did you try to add into the mix? I cut out about 2" out of the hose in the middle then reconnected the cut ends with a barbed fitting, no issues.

You don't need to swap the whole case, just the speed sensor right?

That is what my 8 bins are like, they stack on each other nicely. I said catch all, but they are more like first toss locations. Old pic, much more crap in that shed these days.

More parts mean more things that can break, bind, or need servicing.

I actually cut the broken spot out on mine and spliced it back together with a 1/2" brass dual barb fitting and 2 hose clamps. (This after I replaced my original leaking hose/line combo with one from the JY that also sprung a leak.) I did that in July, and no leak since.

I think only some 86 and 87s had Pathy style lights, the rest were plain jane squares.

The heat is probably from your T-case lever, the rubber boot under the leather boot is probably torn.

If you want the cheap squares, do a Hardbody conversion.

I had my Hellas on my bumper for a couple years, just drilled 2- 1/2" holes in it (no need to remove the bumper to drill).

X2, been there.