GrimGreg

Could be, my locks jambed on my 88 last winter and it turned out to be that black plastic had "clogged" the mechanism.

Yep, a jack stand and a ratchet strap. Just roll down the window and put the ratchet strap around the top of the door and off the roof rack, garage rafter, or tree limb. Then set a jackstand so that it is about 1"-2" below the back end of the door (put a rag in the stand if you are worried about scratching the paint). The door will have movement, but not enough to get unweildy while you work.

Ah, lol. Yeah, common occurance when you don't keep up on maintenance issues. For the swap there have been a couple people to do it, much easier if you have the full donor vehicle to pull from.

I would bet on the contacts in the switch. Even if you checked it and they look good, they might be bent out a hair and not be making full contact every time.

I haven't really liked the look of any since the 280z (not zx), until now. Though I have always thought of the Zs as nice vehicles, and wanted one of any vintage.

Go buy a Civic.

An "air pump", it is part of the EGR and pulls exhaust gasses to be reburned in the engine.

To my knowledge the ones that will harm it don't say that they will.

Yes, and they have a different wire connection and locations. The 93 has a 12pin where as the ones before had a 10pin.

Generic Dextron/MerconIII should do fine (doubt you can find any II easily).

Nissan recommends using Nissan Matic "D" ATF, but Dextron III/Mercon ATF or equivalent may also be used. BUT, like I said before, some Dex III is not good for it, one in particular is B&M Trick Shift (regularly a very good fluid), it can eat parts. I use the Nissan.

Uh, no, it is exactly like my 88s, but with an add-on compartment under the radio (bolt on, can be added to any 93 or prior dash).

Autos don't use the GL!!!

I think a few people HAVE made their own for fairly cheep.

Be carefull, not all Dextron ATF is usable. Certain ones will actually do damage to the tranny components (similar to how the GL-5 will eat stuff). The dealer will sell you Nissan ATF.

The rearmost are the worst bolts, yu have to be lined up perfectly or they won't go. I actually dented my fender trying to shift the body over 1/8" to get them to line up. One thing that can help get you set close it to pull the block back out and get the bolt in and look to see if it is at an angle, if so manuver the body as needed to get it straight, then replace the block and bolt it up. Hopefully you didn't tighten down the other bolts already, becaus having them loose is what makes you able to shift it around.

A little, but the 94/95 have a full electronic cluster that you'll need to either convert your senders to mate with, or chop up and rebuild to use your old analog gauge parts.

You ought to post the specs on your lights man, I think more people would be happy with what you are running in the long run.

Like I said before, I would rebuild it and if nothing else sell it off to buy some more upgrades for the truck.

Hard to specifically diagnose stuff like that on the net. Have you tried jacking it up and spinning the wheel? The CV shaft shouldn't move when you spin the wheel, if it does then the hub is locked in. The cold "might" be causing things to litteraly freeze up on you. If you pull the hub body off (the 6 allen screws) and check the hub make sure it isn't wet or rusted in there. Give it only a light amount of grease if you grease it.

I always thought the 94/95 dash looked too Honda Civic. I like my square dashes .

You're welcome It's been talked about quite a bit on the site, just gotta look .

Your political view is for crap, but you have always been a good guy in person!

Yeah, should be able to get OE through a dealer.

Psst, that is what a "Birfield" is .