GrimGreg

Why you spray just one at a time.

The one that circles back is stock, that strip of wire IS the fusable link.

It's not a bad kit.

The double filter one will add almost a full quart.

IIRC with the single + large filter it adds less than a half a quart to total capacity.

Yep, it has a code that got tripped. I'm no help though as I don't know the codes.

Yeah, I couldn't believe how much of a difference new plugs made when I changed mine. Of course 5/6 of the old ones were way over gapped.

Again, find a friend with a welder and some fab skills to make custom mounts for one of their bumpers if you like em.

Suprisingly it made no noise, but there was a lot of debris coming through the wheel. The rotor was about 3/16" thick, and the "pads" were worn halfway through the backing plate, both were 1/8" thick at the thickest. I think what saved him from gernading it was the fact it wasn't a vented rotor, since it was solid it had a continuous wear surface.

I have a feeling he is mistaking the weld at the edge of your mount plate for a crack.

Looks like it might be time for a new drive shaft, you got a lot of spline showing on that slip joint.

The rears probably will, but I have no clue if they will or not, but I do the fronts will. I actually have rear shocks for an Xterra on my 93's rear .

You mean like this: What a friend of mine brought me, Chrysler New Yorker, the piston was still in the caliper.

If it is not a belt, one way I test what is squeak/squeeling is to take some PB Blaster and spray a little at each pully hub. You know you hit the right one when it shuts up.

Since when is yours an R50?

The fronts are the same size on HB and Pathy, and no different for any lift accept the Trail master.

I had a friend mess his up trying to adjust his on his HB. IIRC in the very basics, you loosen a nut, tweak the screw it is on, then reset the nut. What it does is draws the gears closer so there is less play between the teeth. If you have a Haynes manual, read 11-17 and 11-18.

Well, when my ASE certified father-in-law says, "those are crap just leave those off," I listen to him.

I think the reason it lists the 1.5" is because the kit includes parts to lift the rear of the HB that much. You "can" lift the front 3" without aftermarket arms, the BJs just don't like it.

I did the same, but removed the tie-rod for more play room:

The steering box can be adjusted if that is where the play is. Might also check the rag joint by the firewall, it has a piece of rubber in there to allow the column to colapse in a crash, it might be worn (doubtful, but never know).

Usually if the "shim" is a seperate flat piece in the box, I leave it in the box.

They can be swapped out, didn't say they couldn't, just FYIed on the dealer option.

IIRC if you go dealer you have to buy whole arms with new bushings preinstalled (ie they don't sell just bushings).

It is defaulting into limp mode, like B said, check your tranny ecu and other tranny wiring for loose connections. Since it is happening in rough terrain, something probably came loose.