GrimGreg

What mine did with the cracked coil casing. Coil put out good spark, when it wasn't arcing out of the crack in the side....

Quick fix is to pop off the pillar cover and unplug the tweaters.

I don't have that brand, but no matter the brand you can get mounts to clamp a basket on your stock bars. You can also buy aftermarket towers and bars that will fit your rack rails that are stouter and will hold more weight if you think it will be an issue.

Next time, use a wire hanger. Take a wire hanger and unfold it so it is all straight. Bend a hook and the end, then bend that hook so it is 90deg to the straight part. Next pull gentley on the rear upper corner of the front door (either side) and slip the hanger down into the gap. Fish it down to hook onto the lock pin and pull, door open. (Could probably also stick it down to actuate the power unlock button, but never tried personally.) I can get into my 93 using this method in 20 seconds.

Quicktime is a virus that will destroy your computer, it did mine! Check your save settings on Moviemaker, you should have options for the export file.

As was said, was just saying that if it needs replaced you might as well make a set up. A little steel never hurt anyone....well...nevermind...

Nothing of there's ever is.

What I do also. 3quarts run 2 min., wait 5 min, pull dipstick, fill based on it's reading.

For the rears on the 93+ (in headliner) they added sheet metal under the headliner to mount the speakers up there. Just an FYI you would need more than just the headliner. As for the rear pillars there is some sheet metal behind the plastic.

IIRC someone on AC posted up (probably been 3 years ago now) that there has only been one size ever used, same part number throughout. Actually I think it was in a thread where HooHaa was looking for a larger tank for his.

91s aren't TBI. (BTW, the MAF is on the TB on the TBI models so dead center.)

The anti-lock light just means you don't have functional ABS, but your brakes will otherwise still function normally. The main thing that goes out is the ABS sensor on the snout of the rear diff. (mine got shattered on a rock).

OK, you probably have a somewhat common issue with the MAF wiring. The wires can actually break off the connector inside the sleeve that covers them (usually the ground wire for some reason).

Well, you will have to swap out the bearings at the least, but you can run without CVs.

Yes you can, but be sure to put some duct tape over the back side of the spindle where the shaft went through to keep mud out of the bearings and hub.

After sitting that long you might want to get the injectors checked. You know what your filter was like, just imagine what that in a teeny tiny hole would be like. Sea foam is good, but it can only do so much. Another thing that would be smart to check is your plugs (and while they are out do a compression test), they could be fowled if the injectors aren't firing right. I mention the compression test because after sitting the rings might have scored the cylinders.

Yeah, good time to go for some aftermarket armor.

I thought the bypass hose was on the opposite side from the distributor?

I have ultra-low profiles on mine, they are about 1/4"thick at the center, stock were about 3/4" thick at the center IIRC.

Correct, the valve train doesn't need to be touched.

My 1.5" AC lift springs are red, but those could be someone got happy with the spray paint, or an another off brand....

Get on it!

Not the entire engine, but you might want/have to remove the heads. I was able to reach mine thanks to my Body Lift, just pulled the wheel off and easy access.