GrimGreg

Even with RHD, the exhaust crossover is above the bell housing and we all have a little bit of firewall in the way of that.

I use Simple Green and spray it all over, then let it sit for a few, then wash it off with a light spray and repeat until it is clean.

Herculiner is shinny black at first and will dull over time. I spray "Black Magic" on mine to make it shine back up.

Could be you have some snow or ice build up on the wheel(s) setting them off balance a bit.

I like Line-X a lot better, but neither is a product you can buy and apply at home. I've used Herculiner and Duraliner on my trucks, the Herculiner is much more durable, and has a lot more and larger imbeded rubber particles.

I removed it in the cargo area, on the floor pans I left the really stuborn stuff. For the cargo floor I just smacked it with a rubber mallet and it cracked apart for a good bit of it. Then I took a scraper and the mallet and chiseld the rest off.

I would attempt a crank first, it's free. If the crank doesn't work, then spend money

Me Grimgreg

Frame on it is better than my 93's.

Both autos. Well, I'm not sure if you have ever seen how bad the carbon can build up inside the intake manifold of the TBIs (I've never checked mine for that matter), but it can get hella nasty in there. Also, have tou done an compression test? Low compression means gutless gas guzzler every time.

I have just a single layer of Duraliner on my 88 floor, I don't notice a lot of road noise, but I'm not to picky about things like that, as long as nothing is whistling.

I actually got better MPG with my chunky BFG MTs, than with BFG ATs, same size.

One way to keep the hatch up is to: Open glass, then open the hatch. The glass will counter weight the hatch and keep it open.

Wow, you could be the first personin history to ever say that.

Don't need to relocate, but you can using new bolts and different holes already in the frame and bumper.

You could "cut and paste", would probably make reattaching the seatbelts and seat retainers much easier. Yeah, I just cut out all the rust, then threw a piece of sheet metal over the hole, attached the one under the rear seats with sheet metal screws.

Looks even better on my 56" JVC

Isn't unibody great!?

Bend them how? Toward the hatch or away from, or to the center? I still just use a stick, lol.

That is EVO II. I have the PC version around here someplace, AC actually has advertising in it. That last one you posted does look good, the rock crawling looks better than any I have seen to date. Still looks kind of simplistic graphicly though.

Yeah, it can get bad if left unchecked. I planned to remove my rear seats before I even found out how bad mine was, so just slapping sheetmetal over the hole was no biggy because I wouldn't have to figure out how to remount the seat belts. I turned the space into a storage compartment with the lid acting as an extention of the cargo floor. Here is my phot album for my 88, you can see more of the rust and repairs: http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/grim...8%20Pathfinder/

Most common anymore is Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 springs. For the Body Lift, Performance Accessories is the main brand available, a lot of companies carry it.

You have it dropped eh. In that case drain everything out of it and leave the openings open and work away on it. I ment fill it with gas, if it was on the truck and you didn't want to catch a stray spark, then having the tank full greatly reduces the fire hazard because there will be almost no fumes.

Did you get the part for him?

Just remember, no herculiner on the hootis.