GrimGreg

Technically that makes them concealled weapons you know. One time driving across country my friend and I had our knives laying up on the dash board, got pulled over and the officer said thank you for keeping them in sight, but then told us to stick them in the trunk.

x2, they aren't all made the same and most can only go one way.

I too keep ashes and butts there when Ior my friends are smoking.

That usually indicates an issue with the alternator, either the belt slipped (causing the lights to come on and go back out) or it is trying to die. Mine will flash on for a moment if I hit a big puddle and cause the belt to slip. I would say check your belt and belt tension, and keep an eye on the lights, if they come on and stay on then the alt has died.

Well, like was said, lifters will usually tap at startup and die off once they are pressurised with oil. if they are bad, then it wouldn't stop, but the lifter tick and exhaust tick sound different. I ought to record my 88 at statup, it has both.

WTF is that in? Most all 4x4 Nissans 86+ used a TX10a t-case.

Did a google search, tried AC because I remember a discussion about someone finding one for sale about 4 years ago, but couldn't locate it so I searched "Desert Runner Hardbody" and someone had this image posted on NOR.

It's old and abused, what do you expect?

IIRC, even though it is the same wires, so to speak, the resistance levels are different causing the universals to send the incorrect data signal to the ECU.

I would guess your switch contacts also, it might be just the uneven draw of the single light making some electrical hum.

Here is what Nissan sold stock:

Wasn't Steeve-O's originally 2wd, and he did a stock convertion before the SAS?

Another place to look, pull your cargo carpet up and remove the fuel pump access panel in the floor and look at where the pump goes into the tank, te seal can go bad allowing fumes out as well as liquid gas when the tank is full.

I know a guy looking for one too.

Gotta love Crap-mini.

The #1 TDC crank position "should" be with the gear mark at about 5 o'clock IIRC.

x2, about the same to rebuild or get a pre-rebuilt replacement. Mine was leaking the opposite way, the booster was forcing air into my MC and on into the brakelines.

Mine too, got a used set off of a lifted Xterra, had to use a jack just to install them, lol. Bolt the top in then jack the bottom up to the mount on the axel.

Yeah, that could work.

For bolt-on, ready made, part swap type things: Headers/exhaust, Flashed ECU, cams, VG33 head swap, MPI swap ... Tweaks; overbore, port and polish Custom (things that I have seen); super charger, single turbo, intake I have no idea why anyone buys a WD-21 and wants to make a race car out of it though.

Same method kinda, but put a straight slot across the top and use a big flat head screwdriver. Really though, Simon's "hammer a socket on it" would be my first approch.

They should both act the same.... How they act depends on the shock, some are gas charged so they are pressurized and want to extend if they have no resistance. Others are passive and will stay where you move them.

The lifter tap at startup is common, if it continues after your oil pressure comes up then you have an issue.

Stick your hand down onto the oil filter, then slide up against the block, then move your hand toward the firewall and you should feel it sticking out.

Buy a brick!