GrimGreg

CA = no rust is a Myth.

You can push start an auto, need a little more speed to "pop-it", but can be done.

Get a car, not an SUV.

Yeah, I'd help too if there wasn't that large distance issue.

x2 As for the idle, check that your linkage isn't bound up. The idle issue "could" be related if you do have an air pocket and the little thermo thing is stuck out.

Probably the switch contacts. Open it up and clean them.

Brand name is Typar. Look up "peel and stick flashing" on google.

No you can't convert the hubs, but you can replace them with manuals. Unbolt the autos, bolt on the manuals.

Page 6 Similar stuff to what I was talking about, but you don't need to heat the stuff I mentioned.

It will kill some road noise, but most road noise comes in through the openings around the shifters and such.

Yes, it covers that, but be sure it isn't sticking due to the top slider being dirty. I took mine in once and they scraped a hunk of dirt off mine and sent me away.

What they do is cover the metal completely so that it can't vibrate so easily (or at as high a frequency), no vibration = no sound.

I've never noticed much actual power difference, but the MPI has better throttle responce and sounds a lot smoother as it it reving out.

You should be able to get at least 2-3 times that, if not more for it. What area of the country?

"Cheap" dynomat alternative; look in your local hardware store in the roofing/insulation area, they have a foil backed self stick rubber product that is on a roll and about 6" wide.

Could be the bushings, also check the crossmember bolts up there, they can make noise after a while and need retorqued.

Check your coil, exactly what mine was doing when the case cracked on my coil and it was arcing out the side.

Are you sure it is the belt squealing? Just ask Kingman.

That alone could have killed your valves, that's what ruined them on my wife's Hardbody.

x2, only ever had minor troubles with it.

Cool, hence the "AFAIK", because a lot of others had said they had to switch them.

When mine (88) started leaking it was a pinhole leak in the high pressure hose. I cut out the bad section and reconnected the hose witha dual barb fiting and some clamps. It's been fine since.

The T-case noise might be a worn out chain. Though, usually you can get a complete one at the J-yards for $50 or less. Both of mine are auto, lets put it this way, I don't stall 20 times while trying to get over a single obsticle.

Hammer test, lightly tap along the frame and you'll know when you hit a rot spot.