GrimGreg

You can run it under the rear carpet fairly easy from there too (if you have carpet ).

Here's my current setup I enlargened a hole in the support under there and ran the wires down the B pillar. Everything is out of sight inside, and besides the grommet there's a bunch of clear silicone to keep water out.

For in the back like that, take a look under the rear fender there are a couple rubber plugs up under there that you can run the cable through.

Doesn't the MC need swapped as well?

Hence my recomendation of tube doors.

If you take them off by pulling the hinge pins then they will line back up perfectly, also leaves a nice place to attach tube doors if you wanted them.

94 was the model year the dash changed, 93 was the last year of the square.

I had about 10pounds of rusted metal piled up after I cleaned mine up. I was using all kinds of things to get all the pieces out of the inside; shop vac, magnet, hose...

To Re-index you just reinstall the t-bars so they are pre-wound a little. There are a couple methods for doing it on our trucks.

I don't rock out while wheeling, usually just listening to the CB chatter.

The negative runs down to the fender well and is bolted there the jumps down to the starter if I remember right.

$500 max with a bad tranny. That $500 plus the cost to rebuild the tranny and you might still barely get it under value.

The owner used to be on AC and had a pic of his Parthy in the air after that kit. I don't care about long travel, but I would like to be able to switch to coilovers and ditch the T-bars on mine.

Me either.

BTW, I made the T-case skid he's selling. It's 3/16" material, fully mig welded, covers same area as the stock and uses stock mounting bolts.

Actually something about 3"x5" would be good, buisness card too small, full sheet too big. My $.02

Not really, you're limited by the range of travel the CV has. What the lift basically does is put you towards the limit of your droop on the front, rather than sitting more centered in your travel range like stock.

They are engineered to allow proper distance between the UCA and bump stop after you crank the T-bars(aftermarket T-bars not required). The aftermarkets also are made so that your truck will be able to be alligned with the 3" crank.

A good cheap alternative are Blazer brand, they are pretty much just plain jane. I have thesePro Comp 4x6 Driving lights on my 88s bumper, very good for the price.

Vengeful mentioned NPORA in chat, so I checked it out.

All mine are off, but I'm reconnecting my 93s rear since the wife will be driving it more. I like the gentle roll you get without them, sway bars like to snap you back to level too hard (my opinion).

OK I did a new mod, and got some better pics of old ones. "New" PIAA 80Pro XTs -bounce- Better pic showing my 2 seater convertion Rock lights (welded to the frame since they ground at the base) My cutting board skids "Bottom" added to tire carrier Next project is to build a bullbar for the front

My guess would be a bad shift lock component. If I remember right there is a switch that the brake pedal hits allowing the shifter to unlock, maybe it has broken or needs adjustment.

I found a Budweiser Bottle lighter under my center console when I pulled it out. Best part, it still worked .

I just picked up a big E-fan from a Mercedes Diesel at the Yard. It's going to go in the 88 eventually (still need the thermostat kit). I already went electric on my 93 and I love it, on the highway there's enough air flow that the fan never even kicks on. I wired the thermostat control to run it even when the truck is shut off, like when I stop and park.