GrimGreg

Good idea Jaca! The plugs can still be pulled to stick a preasure washer into them right? I pulled about 5 lbs of mud and rusted flaked off crap out of my frame when I fixed it :oops:

Area above the rear axel, both sides. Stick your finger in the holes and feal if it is flaking, and take a hammer and tap on it in areas away from the holes. Mine looked OK till I hit it with the hammer, went right through it. After I cut all the bad out :X

It's a piece of intake tube with plugged holes in it, remove the plugs and plumb the vacuum lines in One issue with our intake tube it has 1; 1/8" vac line, and 2 other 3/8" lines running into it. Most aftermarket "one tube fits all applications" type things have just one line plumbed. Or going from a plain tube, you would have to put 3 connections/ holes into it somehow.

OK, went to PepBoys yesterday and they have a new line of intake parts there, basically a build your own kinda thing. It's "Specter" brand (couldn't find them online) and they sell parts and pieces like MAF adapters(with interchangeable mount plates for various types) a Vacuum adapter section (a very needed piece for our intakes), straight and elbow pieces, rubber reducers and transitions, cone filter adapters, cone filters, and various other bits. I might have to build one, be the Pathy guinee pig

Only thing likened to a pop I get is when I floor it and it starts gasping

Nope, that extra 1" changes a lot. You can get by without extending hoses and such with the 2".With the 3" you need to swap/extend radiator hoses(or cut out the radiator support and drop the radiator) , power steering hoses, gas filler neck, etc. But the lift blocks and bolts do install the same way, if that was your meaning

One reason I asked is it looks like the 2 sides need something more to tie them together to me it looks like the only connection between the 2 sides is the winch plate in the pics.

One way to find out if you have LSD is to block the front wheels, lift the entire rear, put it in neutral and spin one of the rear wheels by hand. If they both spin the same direction then it has LSD, if they still turn opposite (being in neutral) then it's open.

I agree, at least an ass-suing. The body is amazing sometimes what it can withstand and not break, just hope the feeling comes back for ya.

Nice, any plans to add top bars to it?

I had the same issue, but never took the time to take my own measurements and compare, and probably won't till I get serious about doing the swap.

If you could get the foam to stick to and completely cover the inside surfaces of the frame then it would be OK. However what would probably happen is you would get tons of air pockets where water and dirt will sit in there and rust it out faster. Then a whole new issue of trying to fix it by welding plates on and not catching the foam on fire. -thnkboutit-

Like Slick mentioned a wheel weight, also a bent rim or a broken belt in the tire can cause a shimmy. Rotate the wheels and see if it moves to the rear. I have a nice bend in one of my wheels and it gives you a nice little wiggle at low speed.

With my 31s and slight lift (JGC coils)I have rubbed the top of the rear wheel wells. In the front my bumpstops are large enough that I haven't done the same.

Yeah, Jim's way eliminated swapping out the box for an adapter plate. He just used the stiffiner out of the box and threw hose around it as a gasket. I still want to do that with my 93 since half the box's clips have broke.

His is a Conn-Ferr basket on a Yak rack. I got a Coleman Basket for $100 at Target a little less than a year ago and threw it on my stock rack.

Unless you go custom, there are 2 options on the intake; keep the box and get a K&N (or other oiled element), or get a cone filter adapter and get rid of the air box. If you plan to offroad in mud or water I'd suggest option one, if not option 2 will give you a little more throttle repsonce. I think your studs are probably after they realized the issues and started using better ones (which I think was mid-year 94 on). As for clutch, dunno, I have 2 autos

Actually the later models had more issues with the frames being easily rusted out. My 88 came from a higher winter road salt area than my 93, but my 93 has worse frame rot.

With my BL I can reach right in over the wheel and through the gap to access mine easy.

Yeah, unless the CV has spun loose of the splines, or busted completely the shaft wouldn't spin intependant of the end. Maybe just a loose clamp and centrifical force made it move a little .

Special tool? I used a pair of diagonal cutters and pried on one and it poped right out. Read the manual and it said to push it out from the bottom though. Meh, I didn't do any damage to it my way .

:confused: Both of my Pathys' solid lines end at the front of the engine block and have hose running to the stock cooler.

Guess we might as well not post anymore on anything Just had to poke at ya

Do you want just a rack or a rack with a basket?