GrimGreg

Ever go to Trailmaster's site and read what tire you can fit with their 4" kit

My PIAAs have an led on the switch that is green when off red when on.

Glad everyones OK, doesn't look to bad in the pic. Any mechanical damage, or just a wavy driver's side body?

I have a similar setup, PIAA 110wx2 on the roof, ProComp 55w x2 on the bumper.

You actually like the blue interior more than the red? :oops:

Not true, but the fix isn't simple. 1. Find a good aluminum welder in your area 2. Have them fill the hole solid 3. re-drill and tap being more carefull this time

For the outer end there is a C-clip/snap ring holding the shaft on, remove the clip, pull the shaft out. On the inner you remove the big round seal at the end (I just pushed the axel in against it, it popped right off) then remove the snap ring on that end and slide the spider bearings off the end.

I like the look, but they don't do much good. The ones I have are steel and are only attached to the plastic on the hatch side of the light. Had a tree rip one off once.

Yeah, guys without frames need to overcompensate

:idea: One simple way I saw someone do on their Xterra was to swap the nut at one end out with a nut that had a plastic knob molded on it. Just twist the knob by hand and the link is undone.

The hot air inlet is the main sticking point. It's a little vacuum controlled door on the intake that lets in warm air from around the exhaust. You can either remove that all together or try to make that part so you can be sealed when offroading. To seal it offroad you would need to seal around the vacuum actuator with silicone, and keep a 1 1/2" (IIRC) plumbing cap ready to throw on the inlet tube at the bottom. As for ducting, if you get a 3" rubber plumbing fitting it should be able to conform to the rectangular end on the inlet of the aircleaner (a little further mod may be neccisary to get a good tight seal). Then just run whatever tubing you make your snorkle out of into the other end of that 3" fitting. All of this just theory, but what I plan to attempt on mine as well.

You'll get a popping sound if you turn too sharp in 4wd with everything in sound working order, pop doesn't=toasted .

Only reason Stick is used in a lot of heavy duty work is because it's easier to drag around 2 lead wires than a whole welder -thnkboutit- .

Wow, with advice like that its a wonder anyone would do their own work It took me an hour to pull my axel shaft and replace the boot on it. No banging or cussing needed. As for tools, just a pair of diagnal cutters, snap ring pliers, and small hammer for the boot. I do recomend a good long extention and swivel socket for the bolts holding the axel shaft to the diff flange. The only "hard" part of the whole job was getting the upper BJ reconnected at the end. The noise is probably from the lack of grease in it atm (probably all sprayed out when you put it in 4hi). As for the drift, like others said, 4wd might just be exagerating an exsisting wear issue in the steering or suspention components.

Thats what my local dealer told me too. I'm probably going to swap to bolts when I finally do mine.

Yeah, what kind of lights do you want, off-road, or on road? (The brand you seam to want is obvious.)

Only thing remotely worth a damn would be the navigation, but an aftermarket stand alone GPS is better, can take it with you if you leave the truck

I wouldn't buy an off-brand welder. You can get a nice Lincoln cheap just about anywhere.

Only reason Nissan is bringing that here is to compete with the Scion XB. :oops:

Actually read the blurb about it, might be cool if it came with a gun turret option for the "bubble" Still don't like it

Yeah, looks like they shopped at Footlocker to make those tires (when did Nike start doing tread designs ). Looks like it would be just as much a POS as the current model.

Names get missused and confusing....Westin uses Bull Bal for these POS:

Thats how most mechanics check old vehicle codes, just easier. I understand your angst though, ask them to tell you what specifically is wrong and get no where...

To fix it back to original won't be cheap, the replacement pieces are some $$ even for non-oem.

:oops: I would never buy any vehicle new (unless I became independantly wealthy and didn't care if I wasted my money). At the very least look for a lease return, let some other idiot loose all the value on it (especially if you wanna wheel it).