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I'm the second owner of my pretty much stock 03 Pathfinder SE (auto, part-time 4wd) since 2015. Things happened in 2020. Decided to convert the Pathfinder to manual. Bought a manual trans from a 2002, took my time, and in summer 2023 finished rebuilding it. Not including that here as it's pretty routine - all new synchros, bearings, input shaft and some gears that had chipped teeth, then back together. If you have a 2000, 01 or 02 part-time or rwd you can swap in a manual, get a manual ECU, (deal with NATS), and be done. (You can't manual swap a full-time 4wd, fulltime unit only works with an auto) My problem with the 03 was Nissan discontinued manuals in the US in late 2002 for model year 2003, which also had new revisions with a more advanced ECU including electric throttle body and other changes. So I could either go 'backwards' to a US 2002 manual ECU and install throttle cable, find a wrecked US manual truck and swap everything across - or get an 03 manual ECU and make it work. I didn't want to go backwards. I'm also in WA which doesn't do smog checks so no issues modifying or mixing and matching. Luckily, Nissan still sold the 03-04 as manual in Canada. Looking at parts diagrams in Amayama it looked like the Canadian auto 03 model was near-identical to the US model, so the manual couldn't be that different, I figured. The worst outcome was it wouldn't work at all, or that I'd have to keep spending money until it worked or I gave up. I took the gamble. I reviewed the earlier Pathfinder auto to manual guide linked on this forum, and also looked up a lot of 350Z conversion forums as it's the same engine and ECU. Also Nissan Skyline and 300ZX forums as different engine, but same transmission. I found the throttle body changed part numbers in 07/2002 from cable to electric, so that was the cutover date. Anything after that was right. I searched individual junk yards in Canada until I found a place selling a clutch pedal and bracket, ECU, and flywheel. The tell with the 'right' car was there were no throttle/cruise cables in the engine bay pics, cuz electric throttle. The yards that had what I needed were in rural Alberta. Apparently Alberta has a lot of R50 Pathfinders in their yards. I mainly used car-part.com. I sent the ECU away to get NATS disabled so I wouldn't need to deal with it. Got everything in and worked end of summer 2024, and wanted to share here. Pics and posts to follow once I get an image service set up.

He has been an NPORA member for nearly 20 years and a regular the whole time. Recently he worked with us in the background to get the forum back online, root out problematic DDoS sources and test for reliability. And now adamzan has agreed to join the Mod Team. Welcome adamzan!

I have not yet been given an actual cause for this nearly week long outage, but after spending hours on the phone with the host company today, repeatedly reminding them that they had assured the site would be back up before this past weekend, here we are back up and running... finally! edit: Turns out the host utilizes AWS facilities, so this was related to the major AWS outage that occurred at the same time. Don't know why they couldn't just say that from the beginning.

First things first - remove the transfer case Lots of extensions needed to get to bellhousing bolts. I bought proper long ones after this. Auto transmission detached Flexplate Flexplate removed Source of my rear engine oil leak (after clean up) - rear pan seal job was badly done Sealed it up good. Also I didn't take a photo, but you need to remove the steel inner collar. It's a total pita to get out. It centers the torque converter, but the manual transmission uses a small brass one. There's videos online, the 350Z auto to manual conversion videos cover it. I couldn't get it out for hours and broke various tools, I thought that was the end of the project. But I got it out eventually with the exact right sized puller. Fortunately the R50 chassis has the clutch master cylinder hole already there under a plate Turns out the auto trans computer sits on the other side of the clutch blank plate so both come out at once Factory clutch master cylinder. I thought about steel clutch lines, but ended up using an ebay 240SX clutch line kit. Works fine.

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Good day everyone, one morning I was on market place and found a VG33ER forsale for a decent price and for a and was a good few hours drive but I picked it up with no prior intention of swapping my pathfinder. The swap is pretty straightforward along as you have all the parts from an ER to swap. It is also 02 Xterra ECU swapped on the original body and engine harness. The pulley is swapped now as of writing to the 4x4parts 2.4 quick change pulley on the stock SCB cut off. It makes a significantly more amount of power than before and is absolutely worth it if you can afford the premium gas. ALTHOUGH, it seems the MPG has been improved since the swap at least at partial throttle which is pretty cool. It's also running factoy R50 airbox with all original sensors. Here's what was swapped Lower intake Injectors Fuel rails (minor differences) Supercharger Spark plugs Spark plug wires Thermostat 180 to 170 AC tensioner only NOT alternator Belts Crank pulley Water and ps pulley NOT alt ECU and plug Pas side valve cover (only for PCV valve) To swap the ECU most of the pins are in the same locations how ever not all. you WILL have to solder a larger pin on the orange IACV wire and to make the SCB safety work you can reuse and replumb the map/baro switch as the SCB and it works the same. All valves, sensors and anything else are original 97 pathfinder. You will have to run different length belts for all 3 now that the V belt is deleted, the crank and water pump are different size and the super charger belt needs to be a 5 rib and shorter unless you swap the AC comp. Cruise even works too! It drives incredible and I could not be more happy with the result. before the pulley it feels like a more peppy VQ but after the pulley it pulls harder than one for sure. When I dump the clutch I'm always first off the line even to the diesel guys that book it off the light (i'm looking at you Dodge owners) and it seems to run cooler than my friends bone stock X since mine has a hole in the hood and gets good cooling. Thanks. Donor engine in back of my r50 On floor after getting it home repinning the ECU plugs Cleaning Radiator shows up Installing charger and intake *borart voice* VERY NICEEE

Rock auto has reman and some new off brand ones that are decent just don't get the cheapest of cheap sometimes those aren't that great. GB stuff is pretty good from what I've heard never tried it personally though Also, you only need 1 post you don't need to add to multiple sections of the forum

Just incase anyone needed to know, you CAN fit a fully dressed VG33ER in the back of an R50!

Here's a link to the service manual. Page 196. basically warm, then hold no load 2k rpm for 2 minutes then check timing in N should be about 15 degrees +/- 2

I have an extra distributor that I marked core. I have had it so long I forget why I marked it that way. I figured I would try and put that one in and see if the issue goes away. The issue went away. I couldn’t get it any closer than 17 degrees. That’s within the range the manual gives. I am relieved to know that it should be the distributor. I will get an another one and cross my fingers that it fixes the problem. I will report back after the new one is installed.

The manual transmission chassis cover plate was unavailable, so I cut the existing one to fit the manual shifter The service manual says to fill the transmission from the shifter hole, so I did Intermediate covers and soundproofing Manual transmission trim installed The original auto transmission connector block. I connected up the neutral position switch to the PNP relay so it only starts when the shifter is in neutral. And connected up the reverse lights, just four wires

I made an adapter for my transmission jack to securely hold the manual transmission in place. I've used ordinary jacks to reinstall car transmissions before but this thing is pretty heavy even without the transfer case and I didn't want it falling on me About to go in Lining up manual transmissions just right to install is always annoying. Sometimes you gotta take it completely back out and down and start again. Sometimes it pops right in You can see the innards of the transmission before the transfer case is attached. Without sealant the transmission oil would all seep out Technically the manual transmission transfer case is different - it has a small gutter under the input shaft, and subgears to absorb shock. But nothing that is needed for the conversion. The auto transmission transfer case works fine. But you have to apply sealant as the back of the manual transmission is open

A pic of the back of the new flywheel showing 03-04 signal plate A view of the clutch fork from the outside. It pushes towards the engine, which pulls the pressure plate 'off' the clutch and flywheel

So first I tried a 350Z flywheel - but it was too high and wouldn't allow the pull clutch to work so couldn't release the clutch. So pulled the transmission out again, and next I installed a US '02 flywheel But the signal plate is way different, it's for the cable throttle ECU and the engine wouldn't start 00-01-02 signal plate on left with like 300 or something holes. 03-04 signal plate on the right. The right side has 3x 10 holes. That's what I needed, but flywheel not flex plate I found I needed part number 123105W90A (03-04 only) which is unique to the R50 Pathy due to the pull clutch. It was hard to find but found one in the UAE from I think partsouq Correct flywheel installed I found the starter motor had to be shimmed back about a 1/2 inch otherwise starter gear would hit the flywheel. There's an official part number for this, a plate the starter sits sandwiched under, but it's out of stock so I just used washers OEM clutch plate is an Exedy Pressure plate installed It's pretty big as pressure plates go, but the pull clutch means the clutch pedal is light (is why they chose it for the Pathfinder - more grab but lighter to use)

Clutch pedal installed. I couldn't find a Pathy brake pedal - probably because its bracket wraps around the steering column. I kept hitting the brake when I went for the clutch, so I ended up just cutting the brake pedal the same size as the clutch pedal and it looks factory now You can't really see, but the clutch pedal bracket goes where the auto trans computer used to be. It has a clutch starter switch but I didn't connect it (did connect the neutral start switch though) The Pathfinder manual uses a pull clutch (not a regular push clutch) which I had to figure out how it works Got the OEM parts Assembled. It 'clicks' into the pressure plate on installation. Then to release you pull out that pin, and the fork falls out. You lift the collar on the clutch release bearing to release it from the pressure plate. It's kinda hard to explain without seeing it in action.

I had never rebuilt a manual trans before. Followed the service manual, "Beer Garage" (since deleted), and youtube videos and took my time. I used a toaster oven to make dropping the press fit gears back on easier. I bought a factory shifter. But I thought it was too tall so I cut about an inch off it and welded. I am not a professional welder at all. But it has held up fine. I also found and bought a NOS Pathfinder clutch, and a 350Z flywheel. I figured a 350Z is the same engine and clutch, and the clutch and flywheel fit together. Seemed so far so good.

My one tip is to make sure you can get the fill plug loose before draining the oil.

I'm running a Magnefine on mine as well. I don't know that it's strictly necessary, but I wanted to give my high-mileage slushbox every chance I could, especially after seeing a little glitter in the fluid when I flushed it. I routed the lines on mine so the fluid goes from the trans, through the stock cooler in the rad, through the aux cooler, through the filter, then back to the trans. My thinking was that the OE cooler can only bring the fluid temp down to the coolant temp, so it should be the first stage. I put the filter on the return side just in case the cooler (which was not new when I installed it) had some schmutz in it. That I don't know. But I've had the filter on mine for the last 30k miles, and it hasn't complained.

Finally got this engine built New pistons, Rings, Bearings, Timing Chain, guides, tensioner, Water pump, clutch, plugs, leads, oil pump First Start on Thursday, Yesterday I took it around the block, got a heat cycle through it then retorqued the head, set valve clearances and dialled the timing in. It sounds and feels great! Ready for the next 500,000 hopefully!!

well got it all on the ground yesterday and drove it around. gotta get the alignment done, new tierods, rack bushings and possibly another set of camber bolts. I have everything in the garage but just ran out of time. Also front diff isnt in since pinion seal is trashed and i think its leaking behind the passenger axle. may just source another diff from the junk yard. Otherwise it drives around! just got to get these AC coils and 9446s to settle in and well be good! https://imgur.com/3XhUaw5 https://imgur.com/6QKYQiV

I know a lot of people like to delete stuff like those lines but the truck just runs better when you don't try to engineer it yourself lol.

so little update. Got my SFD ordered back in like november and it showed up in december BUTTTTT the lovely people at UPS messed up the box quantity with item quantity and the tariffs/duties skyrocketed to 2400 bucks per box. which means 4800 for 2 boxes with 500bucks worth of parts in them lol so its been re routed back to the shipper in canada and is currently "lost" per ups but they found it in montana. It has been an absolute shyt fest and waiting. So in the meantime i put on some 2in AC coils from 4x4parts and debating on if i want to rip the trans out of it to do the clutch now and replace the input shaft bearing since it is howling and making all kinds of racket. Heres a pic of the truck last night after i did the coils

yep ! that's a good guy ! happy that the forum is back online... facebook groups are just not my thing when you search things ! way to go adam

Thanks! Glad to help out.

Not able to upload photos with insert image 2" AC coils with 4" SFD, kyb struts, missing link, LR RKB101060.C8 about 6 inch rear lift, Bilstein 5125 33-185569, Warn Hubs, -3.75 backspacing, 33x12.5R15 Duratrac Wrangler, tire carrier with full size spare https://imgur.com/gallery/AIvp4br

Okay, so I figured out why I was having such an issue. It was the wrong seal. Sigh.

So I finally figured out what the issue was. It was the injectors. Not sure if a couple were plugged or what exactly. After replacing them, it idled like it was supposed to. Passed smog no problem. Thanks for everyone’s help.

if you cared enough to try, the caliber bolt spacing measures the same if I remember correctly from 96-99 r50 they run 17MM bolt calibers and the 00-04 use the larger 19MM and larger rotors

Hell yeah dude! Good to see you got it going.

Not sure if my answer went through but I’ll try again lol exactly. If pin 1 was ignition signal then it moved to pin 1 in the X ecu. But pin 8 on the r50 is fuel pump so that moved to 11 on the X. I was able to sit with both pin out sheets and write each pin and what it converted to so it was easier to swap when it went in. This way it was a turn key upgrade which it would’ve been if I paid attention and didn’t mess up the fuel pump pin lol. 8 goes to 11 not back to 8 haha. 1 for like 100 isn’t bad but there wasn’t much to it really. Everything works no downsides once I started going it became fun but would I do it again? Absolutely the F not! That repinning sucks

Getting a strange whining noise whenever I accelerate and also have this weird thing in my hood. Anyone know how to fix this?

The gasket/valve cover area seem to be not leaking (right now), perhaps it was burn-off from something prior or I'm being naive! If/when I hafta replace 'em again, I'll try the non-RTV route unless the covers have started to "wear", I recall I used RTV the first time and the cleanup was NOT fun! As to the orientation, I think I reasoned that round side into the cover would make sense, thinking it would flatten and fill the cover once tightened, but then I think an interweb search contradicted that saying the round side 'needs' to flatten against the head. Who knows???

I suspect that 40254-32G00 is correct for manual hubs (as it's the only PN listed from the lookup # for manual hubs), and 40266-50W00 is correct for auto hubs, and someone balls'd up the data entry and listed it for both of them. But this suspicion was based partially on the listed year ranges and my assumption that the W/D22 did not come with auto hubs, which it turns out they did. The diagram for an '01 X shows auto and manual hub options, and lists 40254-32G00 for both. I would then assume that the two bolts are the same... except that this post says they're not. I removed auto hubs from my '93 and my '95, and I don't tend to throw bolts away. If you break one, and strike out locally, let me know and I'll see if they're still hanging out in my bonus bolts drawer. FWIW, I was able to get all the bolts out of mine without breaking them, though it did take some heat-and-beat on the '95.

Solved. There is a fuse box under the hood that is on the passenger side top and contains a 10A fuse that feeds the other fusebox with all the relays and other trailer stuff. I checked that fuse and it was fine BUT, after plugging it back in, the behavior changed. Turns out the fuse socket for that 10A was corroded and not making good fuse contact. Cleaned it up, bent the tabs and reinserted the fuse. Now everything works as expected.

IMO better to pull the upper cover off and get a proper look, than to drill a hole and potentially drop a bunch of swarf into the belt so you can squint at a screen.

I am a little confused on what you're trying to achieve. Are you looking for something in particular, or just keeping an eye on things? +1 for a grommet if you do start making holes. My dad's Tundra had an open hole in the timing cover (previous hack lost a grommet), and a mouse got in. It turns out skipping two teeth is not enough to kill a 2UZ-FE, but making one skip two teeth is absolutely enough to kill a mouse.

I did the same with my auto. I don't tow but I just don't want the auto to break. Like yours it went into the radiator cooler, through the Hayden aux cooler and to a magnefine filter. I took the trans out at like 177,000 it still shifted great, so I think it helped. Didn't seem to do any harm. When they were plastic you could unscrew and open them. When replacing them I'd take the magnet out and keep it. Looking at the magnet and filters you could definitely see they caught some stuff. Better than the standard pan for sure.

That's a weird one. Wonder if someone popped a fuse somewhere else and "borrowed" it? Glad to hear it was a cheap/easy fix!

Well, tore it down and put it back together with a new pump. The "new" one I put in was leaking pretty bad, guess the seal was bad from the get go. All is well now. Thank you for all the input gents!

Finally ordered the last of the engine parts today, time flies and I miss driving this thing more than I thought I would. I went camping over the Xmas break in my D22, it felt like such a betrayal after all these years!

You have power at the key itself, or at the switch? What are you checking at the column? Do you mean you've got no dash lights, or are the dome and headlights out too? I would check your work with the alarm system removal. If the ignition switch has come unplugged, or a connection to or from it has failed, that could explain a lot. I am assuming you've already checked the battery terminals.

My parts hoard has saved me several times lately. Torsion bars for my Xterra, one let go. Found I had a nearly new oem set I bought off of a guy 15 years ago who fitted aftermarket bars on his. Perfect, free repair! Fan clutch went on the X, ripped the one off my old 94 wd21 that wasn't that old, it looked the same so I put it on.

It's amazing how messed up a VG can be and still run! Hopefully it goes as long as you need it to.

I believe I used a short piece of iron pipe to drive it on since an oversized socket isn't an option.

I've been meaning to do a write-up of my conversion with photos, it's more involved than the VG33 (I used that doc commodorehat referenced above as a base). It just takes time to write and I'm busy/lazy. I can say you can't put a manual with the full-time 4WD, it doesn't fit the back of the trans. Also the full-time computer needs the auto trans computer to work. So you'd need to convert to PT with a part-time transfer case, not impossible, but more work than starting with part time 4WD. Also if you have VDC/stability control I don't think it will work without these two computers. You'll need a manual ECU, deal with NATS (I disabled it), and clutch assembly/parts, the rare flywheel, and some other pieces. I still have my auto trans which shifted fine before removal, I've been meaning to post for sale. If you wanted to stay auto, you could buy mine and put your fulltime backplate from your trans on it to fit the full time 4WD. If I had a FT model like yours, I'd find a rusted out or blown-engine manual car, rebuild the trans if it needed it, and take all the parts and build up your car with them, it would be cheaper and everything would be there. I was just lucky that I had an SE with part time 4WD already and didn't need to many parts.

It works, but the backlighting does not work. Occasionally, the lights will illuminate, and I think it's simply a loose ground. The lights are probably original. Last time I looked at them, they're silver in color, and probably ready to give up. OE PN 2754553E00, aren't available in the US and I might be able to import them through Amayama. Has anyone come up with a dimmable replacement LED that could be made to fit? Also... What about the lights on the LCD Clock? Anyone have a replacement for that light?

Tough call. EFI's generally better, but you'd need a bunch of parts off the donor to make it work. Computer, harness, evap gear, fuel system, oxygen sensors, catalyst. Then the fun of fitting the harness to a shell that wasn't designed for it. But, yeah, easy starts, OBDII, probably better on gas. Looks like some of the Ratsun guys have carb'd the KAs and worked out which earlier distributors will work. Less to set up, less to go wrong.

Some supporting pics... Sliders aren't attached here, just resting on jacks before I changed the mounts, but you can see how badly they jammed up into the pinch seam and rocker panel. Front leg: Rear leg: There's just nothing to prevent them from shifting upward except the pinch seam. How it sits today with my QX4 mounts, but you can see the lack of a gap at the door corner and further back. Doesn't hinder the door, though, but does rub just enough. The slider bodies are stout enough, though. No complaints there; just the mounting style I disliked. Shot of reinforced OE mounts and trail abuse since (my muffler has taken a beating): Here's basically how I had converted OE step rail mounts for use on mine and R50JR's sliders. I really liked the results. Just chopped off the legs and cut side plates to stiffen them up.

Found a couple videos for the upper and lowers. Looks pretty straight forward aside from running into seized bolts of course. So my question is, can the uppers and lowers be done on the ground with wheels on?