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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/29/2021 in Posts

  1. R33 GTST brake calipers Unfortunately these use smaller 19mm bolts and would either need the following to run safely: - sleeves through the knuckle, or - re-thread/tap? the calipers to fit the bigger 22mm bolts.
    5 points
  2. Well it appears we lost almost a year of posts here so I thought I'd repost some of what I had done in that time just in case any of it will be helpful to anyone in the future. U-Bolts for mounting X-Bull type traction boards to the SE Roof Rack. I added adhesive felt to the top, and shrink wrap to the bottom to help protect the rack: Installed Midland MXT275 mobile GMRS radio installed in upper-portion of the center console with supplied antenna on the roof (excuse all the dog hair in these shots): Short antenna from cravenspeed.com. I was tired of the huge factory antenna getting hung up on branches of narrow trails. This is listed on their site as a Nissan Frontier part but works great: And some beauty shots C/O @PathyDude17 & @zakzackzachary & myself, as well as a video walkaround on Tyler's channel: Up next is a set of skid plates & missing link that is on order from SF Creation...
    5 points
  3. Well since the host of the site had a failure a few days ago, I'll go ahead and toss in a recap to the build from May 2021 to present since some of my build posts are gone. 2001 SE Grille: Kind of a rare find since the Bronzed Gray paint only existed in 2001 and 2002. Found it listed in a local part out. Sadly the part out had worse paint on the hood and fenders than mine but I digress. Powerstop z36 front brake kit. Local guy had a wrecked R50 that I was buying parts from. He had these new in box and wanted me to take/buy them. I didn't need brakes so I was like "uh, I can do $20" and he handed them over. For daily driving and wheeling they don't feel any different than my stock discs and pads but whatevs. Poly steering rack bushings form 4x4parts.com I rebuilt the front end with new cv axles, inner+outer tie rods, ball joints, inner+outer bearings, and rack bushings trying to find a popping noise that ended up being a control arm bushing. They don't appear to drive or feel special but I think polyurethane is supposed to be more resilient to oil than rubber so that's comforting to know while I procrastinate on replacing leaky valve covers. Missing link Made this from 1.5" x 1.5" 1/8" steel square tubing. 23 7/8" long. Ends chopped at 45 degrees. Couldn't feel any difference driving or wheeling. This later got modified for a skid plate a few months later. Skidplate. Had some trails at the offroad park that couldn't be finished because I lacked armor. After getting scammed on cheap rock sliders and Lokka taking 9 months to ship my part, my wife was very leery about me spending big bucks on car parts so I took matters into my own inexperienced hands to make my own skidplates. 3/16 thick 24x48 steel was "only" $96 so I started. I first modified the missing link by adding a 1" spacer from square tubing so the plate steel would clear the front diff. I measured and cut out the mid skid and made notches for the rear control arm bolts. I turned a lot of drill bits into smoke so drilling this took forever. I cut the front skid and notched it with an angle grinder. Apparently the plate steel had a wave to it and made it difficult to notch with the angle grinder without puncturing through the back side. Welded the creases and cleaned up the mill scale and welds after several hours Painted it with flat black rust converter for easy touch ups. Found some bolts at the hardware store. Got some washers for rocks to deflect off. Mounted it up. Just enough clearance between plate and diff Took it to the offroad park and hit the trails I had to turn around on last time. Got some scars to test it out. I think it's a winner. Whenever time allows, I'll see about making a rear skid. So that's a wrap on the build as it sits now.
    5 points
  4. Hey R50 people! You might have seen my posts on Facebook groups or instagram, but I also wanted to be present here as I've enjoyed browsing this forum numbers of time. Those of you who don't know me, I'm based in Vancouver BC Canada and I created a sweet roof rack for all R50 models. I was inspired by Prinsu obviously and since there are no aftermarket solutions for R50 I decided to make my own rack. Please check out some details, information, manual and more photos at my google drive: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/14yxt2aZX2_KDKsw74M9Ft5XpMms7hF-H?usp=sharing Let me know if you have any questions! I've sold a few already so you might start seeing those racks on R50s! Thanks! Pawel
    4 points
  5. Wow it’s been some time! I was browsing the r50 section to see what might be new and I figured I might as well throw up an update in case anyone cares. The truck is now at 320,000 miles, still going strong. Worst thing to happen since my last update was an small evap leak, everything else works like new. I’ve got a code for the swirl control system but haven’t been able to track it down yet. Doesn't affect drivability as far as I can tell, so it’s likely one of the million parameters involved in its operation is slightly out of spec for what the system is looking to see. I’ve tested the valve itself and the vacuum lines around it, no issues. Eventually Ill need to sort it out so I can pass emissions, but whatever it’s on the back burner for now. There’s a slight weep from the rear diff, most likely the pinion seal. I need to do the rear wheel bearings, drums, and axle seals all together so I’m planning it for some time over the summer. My girlfriends 4runner needs that same treatment but a little more desperately since her drums are soaked in gear oil so it takes priority over mine at the moment. My engine still leaks oil like crazy, no matter which stop leak I use. I gave up at some point and now I just run maxlife blend 10w-40 which seems to keep it under control better than the mobile 1 did. If I’m driving it a lot every day I go through about a quart per week, but luckily I’m working from home these days so I can keep the oil consumption to a minimum. I also changed the radiator and hoses, along with the two front cam position sensors and fan+clutch as preventative maintenance. Got the front shaft U-joints swapped out and balanced by a driveline shop so there’s no more rumbling on the highway. In the late fall my dad and I took the two pathfinders out to the Logandale trail network outside of Vegas to blast through the sandy canyons a bit. Super fun spot, but my skinny tires were a little bit out of their comfort zone in some of the really deep sand. Especially because the tread depth is getting pretty low. I’ve had the tires since March 2020 I think? So probably 35K miles at least, with about 6-10 months of usable tread left at this rate. My JEGS jerry can go stolen from the back of the truck over the winter. Some bastard cut the ratchet strap while it was parked. People are getting desperate with the gas prices being the way they are. So when I replaced the can I also built in a simple swing open locking mechanism to keep casual thieves from trying. It’s not impenetrable obviously, but so far no one has messed with it. I also got a nice set of seat covers so I don’t have to look at the ugly cuts and tears in my seats anymore. I think they look great now A few weeks ago I welded up some basic low profile rock sliders to help deflect the odd boulder that might want to smack the rocker panels this summer. They mount up using the original mounts for the side steps like most other guys have done. The only exception is the middle bracket had to be modified to get the right height. I tested them with my jack and they’re easily strong enough to use for lifting a wheel. My goal was to lose as little ground clearance as possible, so I made them fit nice and tight to the body, with just enough gap to be able to flex slightly upwards under load without touching. It’s a very basic setup but I’m happy to have that extra bit of protection just in case. You can hardly even tell they’re there In preparation for the season I also swapped out my rusted and damaged smitty trail jack for a hi lift extreme 48” which is much nicer quality and should last forever. I plan to keep it covered in WD40 to keep the rust away and I wipe on a light coat every couple weeks. I’ve padlocked it to the mount just in case Last but not least, I noticed my driver side CV was starting to rattle when I was going over small bumps. At first it sounded like something was loose in the suspension but it turned out to be the inner joint. When I tried to turn the shaft back and forth by hand it had noticeable play. Being that I didn’t want to break it on the trail again like last year, I swapped it out for a new one. The brand is GSP I think? Fairly cheap. Absolutely zero binding at full droop, even with no sway bar, and it’s actually so smooth I had to double check that my hub was really engaged. Time will tell if it lasts, but overall it seems to be good quality. I just wish I had the motivation and time to swap my Rockford boots onto it. From what I can tell, this one seems to be in the pre-facelift style with the round flange rather than the tri-flange shape, which I believe means it should have a slightly better range of motion (provided its made to OE spec) because I think I read somewhere the earlier models had slightly longer struts. Anyway, I think that just about covers everything I’ve done in the last several months. Next up this year Ill be redoing the rear bumper with plate steel now that I have a garage again. Even though mine is still functional, I’m sick of the plastic bumper cover. Then maybe I’ll look into some aluminum skids and a locker. It’s shaping up to be an awesome summer, I’m super excited to hit the trails again.
    4 points
  6. Finally have a couple of new updates. Installed front & mid skid plates as well as a missing link from SF Creation. I had the front plate, and missing link powder coated by Steve, but left the mid in raw aluminum. Also got a rear window molle panel that a guy who is local to me was fabricating and selling them in one of the Pathfinder Facebook groups. He sells them in raw aluminum, but I went ahead and painted them in rattle-can bed liner. Install was a bit of a pain, and made me wish I had an additional arm to hold the thing in place (he doesn't pre-drill the holes etc. so you have to mock it up etc.). Came out pretty good in the end though. I also got a gift certificate for Weather Tech for my birthday, and since I already have their mats and rear cargo liner I opted to try out their seat back protectors to gain some additional storage options. They are not cheap but as with all Weather Tech products they are made in the USA & are very high quality. They don't install the way that is intended on the seat bottom so I routed the straps underneath the brackets that bolt the seats to the floorboard, and it worked great.
    4 points
  7. Coastal Offroad makes a weld it yourself kit that I believe is winch ready - https://www.coastaloffroad.com/product-category/1996-2004-pathfinder/ Other popular option would be ARB
    3 points
  8. This smells like some Facebook bull@!*%. Don’t bring that @!*% here.
    3 points
  9. You're not wrong, it is a lot of money, but this isn't an amazon Curt rack. OP spent a lot of time for R&D. It's a nice rack for a market that doesn't exist for the R50. I know you were not trying to be a jerk but consider the work that goes into something like this before commenting... or at least ask why the cost. Do you also make these tents?
    3 points
  10. Well, okay so first of all it's made in Canada, designed from scratch by myself, CNC cut from 1/4" aluminium and powder coated locally. Now if you think it should be cheaper, I will surprise you, my cost per rack is pretty close to 80% of the price I'm selling it for. Aluminium prices have been high recently, labour is not cheap in BC, I'm not skimping and use stainless steel high quality hardware, I took 4 prototypes to get it exactly how I wanted it and make a good fit. It comes with custom made brackets, an installation manual and is designed to fit all R50 roof rails as it's a simple bolt on style rack. I won't even start on tents, the one you're seeing in the picture Im selling for $2900CAD and guess what, I do sell them at this price fairly easy. Unfortunately there are no alternatives to roof racks for R50s and so I took my after work free time, spent it in front of the computer and taking tons of measurments, designed it and built it. If I added my hourly rate to the cost, it would've been more but since it's my side fun project I cam out with the price most people agreed was fair and all customers so far have been happy with the racks and the quality. These things are not cheap but I guarantee they will outlast all R50s out there and will not break, rust or fall apart. I also have some discounted racks with minor imperfections but since I really don't appreciate your tone and stereotypical jokes, I'll ask you to move on and search for alternatives. And since I know there are no alternatives really, good luck building your own ?
    3 points
  11. Here are some photos of happy customers. I still have two full rack and two discounted sets (very very minor imperfections). Shipping available anywhere in Canada or the US.
    3 points
  12. Well it looks like my old build thread got nuked as it was made in the "lost period".... so here's a new one! The last one was "maybe" going to be a build thread, so this one's the "confirmed" build thread! I'll begin with a brief review of the old thread and a few updates from the fall to bring us to today. This is my first "project" vehicle and more or less is my entire journey from knowing very little about working on cars to wherever I end up. I picked up my 2003 Pathfinder LE in June 2021 with 242,000k on the odometer. The vehicle was in good shape with some relatively minor rust in the usual spots, but none in the strut towers which is great. I believe I am the third owner and the vehicle has spent the majority of its life in the interior of British Columbia - so limited rust, but not much. Here she is the day I picked her up: Here's what the Pathfinder replaced, with the Pathfinder lurking in the background the same night I brought it home: Biggest disadvantage of the pathfinder so far? No dash spot for Lenore on long trips. She's tried to do this a few times on the Pathfinder's dash but she always falls off. Oh well, safety first kitty! The very first thing I did upon getting it home was address the power valve screws and a few other things. Upon the advice of some of our wise members, I did more or less every gasket above the valve cover gaskets (including those), the rear thermostat, the rear thermostat elbow hose, PCV valve, and of course the power valve screws. I didn't replace every vacuum line and crankcase breather hose as I had trouble finding the breather hoses locally. This was a mistake, as it turns out. The previous owner stated he had just done spark plugs, and they looked quite good. This is almost as deep as I got: Upon starting the car, it sounded terrible and the SES light immediately came on: vacuum leak. I tried a few times to diagnose the issue without pulling the everything I'd just done apart, but to no avail. I ended up re-doing most of my work as the line that had cracked was the one that ran underneath the lower intake plenum: basically back where I'd started! I got that sorted and did a coolant flush. This is the first time it ran properly after my work: Admiring it from the garage in the rain: After that I insured it for two months to drive it around in its stock form to do a bit of a shakedown to see if anything major would pop up before putting my lift in. It's a great vehicle to get me to the bike park and back! Here it is during that time: After being satisfied with my time with it during the shake down, I committed to lifting the vehicle. I went for OME HD front on KYB struts and LR 9447s out back with OME shocks. Unfortunately the shop I ordered the shocks from sent me the wrong ones, clearly for a 96-99. They returned them at their expense and I got new KYB shocks out back for now. If I get an SFD or similar in the future, I'll revisit the rear shocks and stick something else in there. I also added a front SFcreations skid plate and missing link to the vehicle, did a reasonable amount of rust removal/repair on the rear quarterpanels, a new exhaust, and probably some other minor things I'm forgetting about now. I did recently check the RMS as I thought it was starting to leak, but it turned out to be a stupid little crush washer in a plug above it that had just started to leak. The RMS itself looked great with non-factory RTV that looked pretty fresh in the area - so at some point, someone else had to deal with it. I need to get photos of the Pathfinder with its little lift in AND the decent tires - right now it is on small little winters that don't look particularly good. For now, I have the following things to attend to over this season at a minimum: Replace front right strut + bearing - the non-OEM strut bearing broke within 500km of replacing it, it's taken the strut with it too - right now it clicks as it rotates. I have the stuff and just need to chuck it in when I get a chance. I'd love to repack the rear LSD before the end of the season. Driving the vehicle around this winter has revealed it's quite worn out. I have a possible front diff issue I'll need to look in to at some point: occasionally, the vehicle will not engage the front right CV when shifted in to AWD/4wd mode. It engages and the light turns on within a few seconds of travel, however, but is unable to do so at a stop if the issue occurs. I've already checked the CV and the diff and transfer case fluids. This might require a deeper dive at some point. The rear bump stops are non-existent. I've ordered a replacement set and I'll have to chuck them in at some point. I'd like to touch up the paint work I did on the rear quarter panels - the fade is far below my standards and worse than I know I'm capable of. I'll probably take the time to do some touch ups elsewhere, but it'll be tough to fade small areas as the paint code paint is MUCH darker than what my vehicle has faded to over the past 19 years. Maybe I'll see if I can get a closer match to the real colour somewhere. Looking beyond the "I'd like to do it this year" stuff, at some point I'd like to replace all the hoses and vac lines under the hood. Ain't broke, don't fix right now, and I have no reason to go in there at the moment, so I'll leave it for now. I'd like to install a transmission cooler and in-line filter. The stupid rear bumper is drooping a bit - I've reattached all of the fittings, so I don't really know what's happening here. I'd like to take care of that after I do some paint work. Oh, and the front bumper on the right (is there a theme here) is missing a fitting, so I should probably find one for that too. Beyond that? Who knows. I have dreams of a "fully built" pathfinder, but I'm not 100% sure this one is it. I wouldn't mind spending the money on a low KM, lower mainland/Vancouver Island example to do the "dream" build. There have been several come up in the past month or so, but I'm not really ready to spend 8-10K CAD on one when I'm really not convinced they'll keep their inflated value over the next 1.5 years. Until then, I'll keep doing maintenance and either cost-effective or somewhat transferrable mods should I move to another vehicle.
    3 points
  13. Two import things to know with the front suspension. Also, fix your Power Valves if you haven’t already
    3 points
  14. I wouldn't recommend doing them yourself without a hydraulic press. I've done a few now and they all required a press. The different snap rings are used to center the u joint but mine always took the same size that was on there (usually the skinniest). Spicer u joints should include the 3 different size rings. Spicer is the only brand I'll use for u joints. On my rear drive shaft I used machinist calipers to center the u joints and it worked great with no vibrations (till I snapped my upper control arms and the yokes got bent ?). I have a lokka and manual hubs in front so didn't really worry about centering the u joints in front since the hubs are never locked over 25mph. It's pretty straight forward but getting them centered and not messing anything up makes it tedious and a bit of a pain in the ass. If you're not comfortable doing it yourself I would take it to a specialist driveline shop, the average mechanic will not have done many (if any) of these.
    2 points
  15. Unless the joints are so flogged that they've eaten into the yokes, or the driveshaft has obvious dents/chowder marks/slop in the slip joint, I would just throw a set of joints at it and see where that gets you. Check your front diff bushings while you're in there, I remember someone on here had a vibration that came down to the diff flopping around under load and putting the joint at weird angles.
    2 points
  16. Update. I got the car running. I was able to Get my dad to come out and help me find TDC because the markings on the crank pulley were incorrect. Once it was at TDC i oriented the rotor to point to the #1 wire. Put it back together and it started running!
    2 points
  17. Disregard. I found it. This forum is not helpful at all.
    2 points
  18. I’ve bought a couple of things from Fleury and he makes good quality stuff. His missing link is robust.
    2 points
  19. Good points, I agree as to the cost factor. Problem is it can't be cheaper if I make a few of them only. It would be cheaper in mass production obviously but like you said there's no need for that. My 15 racks are almost gone now and my next batch will be 5 likely. With aluminum and labor cost being historically high and all covid issues, my profit margin on these has shrunk down to be enough to pay for gas money and my rack really. I just took it as an after work fun project and make an alternative to very limited options. My original plan was to get a few of the rhino rack crossbars for my rooftop tent but if I wanted 4, it would cost me roughly $1000CAD so I figured I build my own. There, for another $500 you get 8 crossbars, wind fairing, 100% rust resistance, more attachment options and lower profile while supporting a couple small businesses. Anyways, I'm hoping to keep a few in stock for those who decide to get them, might even spend some time on improvements for 2nd batch, I'll update here! Also, a lot of people asked me to make one for 2nd gen Xterra, that might be a slightly bigger market maybe. Side note, I was going to do skid plates too locally to not have people pay for shipping but aluminum sheets prices made it not worth it, SFCreation shipped is pretty much the same money now so I'll just grab one of his and support his R&D.
    2 points
  20. I, too, would like to know which brand of spring you used in the rear that sagged so quickly. I am going to buy springs soon and want to avoid what you used.
    2 points
  21. Turns out I shot way more footage than I thought I did. Also turns out I mumble, but I knew that. Anyway, here's what I did on mine.
    2 points
  22. Here are some brackets that bolt to the block, one houses the starter, another mounts to the alternator, the 2 pieces on top of the engine mounts, blended out all the nasty spots, sandblasted and Powdercoated, the hardware has been stripped of whatever nickel plating was left and a ceramic coating applied. Also did the transmission support and some pulleys oh and a power steering rod. You know me by now guys paint it blue and call it new! The blending of welds and casting splatter on those cast metal pieces was painful, hard work pays off!
    2 points
  23. Alright, so yeah, now this is coming back to me. That single taper H233B setup was actually identical to my 98 Frontier's H190 setup. Same bearing cage, bearing, shims, seal, etc. But, I guess I also thought there was a range of W/D21 drums that had the newer bearing cage like the R50, but seemingly that was limited to the wider axles (R50, D22, WD22). And yeah, that recessed axle nut in the bearing cage is absurd. I once bought a spanner that I thought would work, but wasn't even close. I've made a couple tools using my plasma table to do that work, but I sold one and Towndawg has the other for his disc brake swap. I made them to accept 1/2" ratchets/breakers in order to hit those torque specs, but in more recent efforts, have just resorted to hammer and punch. This was one of them. Wasn't a fan of the design, but worked: I liked this one better because it gave me some wings to smack with a hammer: When I first started getting into the axle shaft tear downs, I just went out and bought a floor press (was cheaper than outsourcing the work) and it's been a wonderful shop addition ever since (most recently used for a t-case upgrade). I just needed to make some tools to tear things down. This was one of my later setups using some scrap; just bolt onto the bearing cup and suspend in the floor press: Towndawg stepped it up and made one with a turn screw...no press required for disassembly. Looking at the FSM for my Frontier, though (and largely assuming that process hadn't changed for the single-taper design since '92), it shows use of a tool similar to Towndawg's for pulling the bearing w/o a press, but then shows just using a drift to reinstall the bearings (both outer and inner races). I've never done this job on my Frontier to confirm, and now that it has an H233B with discs under it, I won't have to. @gamellott Since the H190 bearing setup appears to be identical to your H233B setup (according to NissanPartsDeal.com, every part from the axle lock nut to the seal on a '92 is a VIN match to my '98), let me know if I can get you some pics from my H190 to confirm anything for you.
    2 points
  24. Some supporting pics... Sliders aren't attached here, just resting on jacks before I changed the mounts, but you can see how badly they jammed up into the pinch seam and rocker panel. Front leg: Rear leg: There's just nothing to prevent them from shifting upward except the pinch seam. How it sits today with my QX4 mounts, but you can see the lack of a gap at the door corner and further back. Doesn't hinder the door, though, but does rub just enough. The slider bodies are stout enough, though. No complaints there; just the mounting style I disliked. Shot of reinforced OE mounts and trail abuse since (my muffler has taken a beating): Here's basically how I had converted OE step rail mounts for use on mine and R50JR's sliders. I really liked the results. Just chopped off the legs and cut side plates to stiffen them up.
    2 points
  25. For a sec I thought that 4runner was your pathfinder. Looks like a fun snow day Sent from my Pathfinder
    2 points
  26. Pretty sure I'm running the 53218X from rockauto in front. The yokes are steel ?
    1 point
  27. Here's one. Not sure why eBay brings up headlight switches and old-school floor-mount dip switches. Something something algorithm.
    1 point
  28. Yeah well, shipping assembled bumper would be painful. As far as I know they sell it ready to weld and can keep shipping cost relatively low, maybe if you came to their office in vancouver they could weld one up for you. I think that’s as high clearance as you can get for custom bumpers on r50 and they come with optional skid plate. Pricey but now after fabricating the racks I understand these things can’t be cheap Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  29. The column covers always do that. Weak brittle screw posts. Probably doesn't help that it's in a prime spot to get smacked by knees. Mine wasn't worth putting back on, so I made a metal one instead. It ain't pretty, but it's stout. Can't help with the fungus, that's nasty. Hopefully there isn't a great gob of that inside the switch.
    1 point
  30. I can't find a photo for that part #, I'm guessing it's the one with the twist knob at the end for the wiper frequency? I've got a spare wiper switch, but it's off a base model Hardbody, so it doesn't have the intermittent function. I haven't checked whether the plug is the same. (Edit: just checked, yep, same plug. Plugged it into my '93, works fine. The intermittent function is a separate two-pin plug.) Gonna have to be more careful with mine. I didn't realize they were unobtanium.
    1 point
  31. @Slartibartfast I think I need to come visit and borrow your custom made socket for this job. ?
    1 point
  32. The Rockauto system is usually pretty good. Nissanpartsdeal is my usual go-to for identifying parts and year ranges and whatnot. I ordered most of what I used from RA, but they didn't have the lock washers, so I bought those through Partsouq. I like those CNC'd sockets. Mine is not nearly that nice. I cut some strap steel to fit the splines, then welded them to a pipe to keep them in formation. I tried welding a bolt to it to use with the torque wrench, but, yeah, that didn't hold up so well. A sacrificial 1/2" drive socket would've been better, but by that point I think I had realized that my torque wrench didn't even go that high, so I welded on some rebar handles called that good enough. The drawings in the service manual call out PNs for some of the tools they suggest (though others just say "suitable tool"). I looked some of them up when I did mine and found what I think was the right kit, but the listing didn't have any pictures and it was priced stupid high. And yeah, I'm not sure what function the torque spec is serving here. It's not like you're gonna set preload given how tight those inner races are pressed onto the shaft. Maybe it's supposed to push the races home if you didn't get them fully seated with the press? It might just be a standard torque spec for that thread size and pitch for all I know. I bought a cheap press for mine (the cheapest Northern Tool had) and had to stack some wood under its legs to get enough clearance to get the whole axle in there. Worked great after that, though. I do like Towndawg's solution.
    1 point
  33. Though…shouldn’t they only then differ by the bearing and bearing cup, which would be shallower, but otherwise be the same process. Pretty sure the grease seal is the same for practically everything, down to the H190 (which I think uses the same single bearing…I’ll have to crossref that).
    1 point
  34. My bad, forgot the older drums used the single tapers and thrust blocks, unlike everything after (including Frontier and Xterra) using dual bearings.
    1 point
  35. The R50 drum/WD21 disk rears are built the same, but the drum WD21 rear is a different beast with a single row on either side and the axles butted up against a thrust block in the diff, with shims on either side to set the end-float. I did the rear bearings in mine recently (WD21, disk) and there isn't really an adjustment for them. Just a very high torque spec for the nut that holds it all together, which I'm not sure how you're supposed to get, given that you'd need the world's deepest socket or a really weird crow's foot to get a torque wrench on it. I just gave 'er wha by hand with the spline wrench I welded up to remove them. I've seen people use a hammer and punch instead, but I didn't want to risk damaging the stupid spline nuts. And, yeah, you'll need a press and some creativity in setting it up for the various operations you'll have to do to get everything separated. The service manual has a pretty good breakdown, though of course it assumes you have the super-special Kent-Moore kit for everything. Too bad it has to come apart for a seal, that's a lot of screwing around for one piece of rubber. But if there's oil coming past the outer seal, that suggests the inner has been whupped for a long time. If you're going to the effort of replacing the seal, I'd plan on doing both seals, the O ring, and the bearing as well. Mine weren't actually bad (much to my annoyance--I was hoping they were the source of an annoying noise) but they did show some discoloration on the rollers and races, and there wasn't a whole lot of grease in there anymore. Looked like the inner seals failed and diff oil washed the grease out. I also had to put a fair whack of stress on the old bearings to get the axle to budge. This didn't leave any obvious damage, but I was happy I had new bearings that hadn't been abused like that to put it back together with. (And then there was the race I dropped, where the plastic cage broke and the rollers scattered from hell to breakfast.) I shot some video of the job when I did mine, then never did anything with it. Let me know if you get stuck on something and I'll try and work out what I did there.
    1 point
  36. my tires are goodyear duratracs 265/70/16 (30.6") and they wouldn't fit so I got a spare 245/75/16 (30.45") of another brand and it fit fine, had to tuck it under the hitch first and then it wouldn't rub the panhard bar, probably 1/2" clearance as stated
    1 point
  37. Mostly an FYI in case someone faces this at some point. This is why properly attaching those clips that come with the sensors is important. Shaft caught the wire and tore it. The sensor is honestly in a pretty bad spot since there's just a narrow area between the shaft and the exhaust for the wire to go through (this is the driver's side): Had a check engine light only coming up during long drives (1+ hours). with these codes: P0159: O2 sensor circuit slow response bank 2 sensor 2 P1167: Heated O2 sensor 2 Bought a new NTK (NGK) sensor and it's all good now. The 4th clip that goes last (top-to-bottom) is a real pain to get to, especially if like in my car, the old clip was stuck in place and didn't want to come off. I had to destroy it to remove it.
    1 point
  38. Another successful Land rover NRC 9447 spring install. Very affordable at $32 CAD per spring. (shipping doubled the price) This was after a nightmare of spending a lot of money on the wrong OME springs with a local retailer, (wrong SKU number online) and actually managing to install them for a 9" lift ?, and then after removal and refund, being told that the correct ones were at least 4 months away... LR Direct had the 9447's at the door in 4 days. The initial installed ride height is 3" higher than the springs that were on there previously, which I assume were the original stock springs. They feel good, and complete the rear suspension overhaul- shocks, upper and lower trailing arms, new bump stops, and springs! The truck has gone from bottoming out clangingly hard on 20 mh School zone speed bumps, to being full speed on potholed logging roads. And now the back is high enough that the tire chains won't hit the wheel arch panels...
    1 point
  39. Hey all, So I've done some searching around the forum and have seen some mixed reviews of the Rocky Road sliders - https://www.rocky-road.com/pathfinder-rock-sliders.html but haven't seen any recent posts about them. Is there anyone on the forum currently running them, or that has direct experience? My situation is that I do not have garage space (street parking only) nor the skills/tools/welding experience to do a weld-on slider myself so I would have to both find and pay a welder to do it - which is why I'm gravitating more toward a bolt-on solution that I am confident I can tackle. Additionally I'm far from a hardcore rock-crawler so getting sliders for me is for some additional peace of mind in tackling more difficult trails so I don't have to worry as much about damaging anything. Because of this I don't really anticipate slamming the sliders on rocks from a couple of feet etc. and my thought is maybe the bolt-on sliders would be enough for any incidental contact with rocks, downed branches etc. with the additional benefit of easier access to the roof rack. Any advice here is welcome!
    1 point
  40. Filmed a TikTok, grilling on my makeshift tire rack table. I hope to make a production model later this year.
    1 point
  41. And then there’s me. I’ve treasured mine so much I’ve been savoring the experience & admiring them in a box for over a year! I’ve got to keep to my MO of a 2yr modification process. I’m the turtle [emoji217] of R50 modification!
    1 point
  42. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point

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