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I have no idea what the factory used. The body repair manual doesn't mention the sunroof at all, and the BF section of the manual doesn't mention adhesives. I don't remember finding any adhesive residue when the seal on mine gave up. The PO of my parts car used what looks like Ultra Black, but it didn't stick to the glass very well. I'll bet a windshield urethane would work great. Or, yeah, the glass shop would probably have the right stuff.

When I had to do mine, I took the sunroof glass and new seal to a glass shop, they charged me like $20 cash to install it, still good 5 years later!

FYI in case it helps anyone down the road, the symptoms mine had were completely resolved. I ended up doing a bunch of maintenance work all at once (timing belt service, water pump, thermostat, cap, rotor, coils, plug wires, plugs, coolant sensors, ....), but I'm convinced replacing only the distributor would've resolved my issues. The one I removed was very difficult to spin, almost to the point where you couldn't spin the gear by hand in places, and the position sensor was quite dirty also. I went with a used unit off eBay with supposed low miles, and so far so good!

Just to be sure, you're throwing both codes separately? Reason for asking is because the Factory Service Manual describes them together; P0138 for RH side and P01538 for LH side. Switzerland is LHD drive? If you are getting both codes, the FSM does indicate that there's a common 15A fuse, #25 (fuse box under steering column, 2nd column, 6th row). From the fuse box, it's a red/yellow wire that leads to a brown 24-pin harness behind the center dash, where it becomes a red/white wire at pin #3 of the o2 sensor harnesses in the engine bay. Those harnesses will be dark blue 4-pin; RH side at near cylinder 5 and LH side closest to cylinder 1 (closer to the oil cap). You should be able to probe those for 12V I'd think. Service manuals available here: https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals Drill down to your truck and year, then check out the Engine Control System chapter. A layout of all harness locations can be found towards the end of the Electrical System chapter.

Hey guys! Long time no chat. I have some interesting news. I was having all of these mysterious "transmission problems". I got so pissed that I swore it's going to the 'Ol junkyard. I left it alone for the last few months without the heart to put it down. I kept thinking about a friend who's my shop tech at work who said if the engine isn't running right, the tranny isn't going to either. I let that rattle around in the melon for a few and went out to start looking at the engine. I started it and just started touching wires, connections, pushing things, pulling etc. I grabbed the big harness across the front of the motor and the whole sound changed. I started looking at critical wires that were connected to it. I feel pretty foolish even writing this, but it shows you that a lot of the problems are right in front of you and look for the simple stuff first. Long story shorter, 4 out of 6 ignition coils wires were cracked. I went on Amazon and ordered pigtails for all 6, put them on and the truck is back!!! Running as strong as I've ever felt it. It's crazy to me how this thing would just shift down to 5th going down the road at 20mph but nothing wrong with the tranny. I guess it does make sense since it was running on 2 cylinders!! Thank you all for the help and efforts to get this beast back and rolling again. I appreciate the time you took to post to help me out. Next project is paint!!! Thanks again!!

Finally have a couple of new updates. Installed front & mid skid plates as well as a missing link from SF Creation. I had the front plate, and missing link powder coated by Steve, but left the mid in raw aluminum. Also got a rear window molle panel that a guy who is local to me was fabricating and selling them in one of the Pathfinder Facebook groups. He sells them in raw aluminum, but I went ahead and painted them in rattle-can bed liner. Install was a bit of a pain, and made me wish I had an additional arm to hold the thing in place (he doesn't pre-drill the holes etc. so you have to mock it up etc.). Came out pretty good in the end though. I also got a gift certificate for Weather Tech for my birthday, and since I already have their mats and rear cargo liner I opted to try out their seat back protectors to gain some additional storage options. They are not cheap but as with all Weather Tech products they are made in the USA & are very high quality. They don't install the way that is intended on the seat bottom so I routed the straps underneath the brackets that bolt the seats to the floorboard, and it worked great.