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From what I've read, a torque converter with too high of a stall speed causes symptoms that sounds an awful lot like the lunging you guys are talking about, but I have no idea how/why an R50 Pathfinder would've ended up with a high-stall converter or where you'd get one with a lower stall speed. The '03 manual says the stock converter should stall between 2,440 and 2,640 rpm, for whatever that's worth. The torque converter lock-up clutch isn't supposed to do anything unless you're cruising in overdrive, so I doubt messing with that would help you crawl. And yeah, doesn't sound like it's the trans itself. I haven't wheeled drive-by-wire, but I remember how laggy it was in my dad's '03. If you've got a scanner/app/whatever that'll draw graphs, I'd be curious to see the throttle position plotted against pedal position to see if the computer's playing silly games with the throttle angle. See if you can catch the computer spiking the throttle when the truck lurches. I've seen adverts for products that supposedly let you modify the behavior of e-throttles in some vehicles, though I'm not sure stacking another nanny on top of the one that's currently causing problems sounds like progress.

I don’t get around here much anymore, but your rig is looking great! I’m glad to see someone else do the TJ bumper build, I think it’s a great look for the R50. Did you tie in to the upper bumper mounts at all as well? For reference here’s a pic of how I did the brackets on mine. This place makes me miss my old R50! If I hadn’t found myself in need of a full size truck for work I’d still have it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Truck looks gnarly, but so does the rust! I can't imagine that'll be cheap at all to fix.

That's crazy man! Gonna need an emergency recap ladder to get in that thing. Looks great! A little high for my personal liking, but have complete respect for the mad fab skills it took to get it done. Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

Just a quick stock vs not pic of my new rig to show what I’ve been up to. It’s a new truck under warranty so I’m keeping mods minimal, but just a little 2” lift and some wheels and tires to set it apart a little. In case you can’t guess, mine is the black one, lol. I’m kind of jonesing to have a project vehicle again though, so I’ve been thinking of picking up another R50 or perhaps a WJ grand Cherokee to build another trail rig on the side. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven't needed 4low out in the woods on an obsticle yetvso i cant say to its rpm build up as mentioned, because ive only needed to use 4H . Ive only engauged the 4L on flat gravel before though and it had no problem trying to get moving, while not nearly as fast of a roll as 4H, but it was still something. But the not getting up and going until about 1500-1700rpm i havnt had to deal with yet. Ive just gone right up things with 4H and never had problem. I do also have an 03 with manual stick transfer case and AT Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

Are you sure it is the rear main? Common leaks that seem like a rear main is the valve covers or the camshaft bore plug.

You could've just swapped the axle shafts over and transferred any brake parts. The shaft bearings are contained in a bearing cup that removes with the axle shaft. Unless you wanted the diff and LSD, too...even then, once the axle shafts were pulled, the diff could be swapped. Anyway, glad it's resolved for you.

Got the rear axel installed and the Pathy is back on the road. It rides smooth. It was a bitch bleeding the brakes, but learned how to do it so I can't complain. This little project cost me $125.00. So not to bad. The Pathy was down for 9 days. Thanks to my local Pull-a-part and NPORA members for helping me along the way especially@Slartibartfast Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

i'd honestly recommend raptor lining the bumpers and fender flares instead of painting them. if youre going to go wheeling alot the bedliner can take a lot more hits than paint. i'm actually considering bedlining my bumpers and fender flares on my rig.

I encountered this somewhat in Missouri: I’d a approach a rock step slowly, and the engine would just rev and rev and rev, not moving the car onto and over the obstacle, then, once I started moving, I immediately feel the need to slow down. Other times in Idaho there are lunging aspects to the driving style, although I think with my differentials being open-open, my lack of traction might reduce that effect. But even on an obstacle like the one below, which alternately lifts/drops each side of my suspension as I move forward, instead of being able to slog through the obstacle at something of an even speed, I always find myself going over the first step, then braking to stop the lunge, then restarting to take on the next dip/peak on the obstacle. But just about anytime I go over an obstacle, it’s a lunging motion that necessitates a harsh braking, which is about what you have. Though I suspect your lockers are making the problem more noticeable. here’s the view from below. Each dip/step is about 1-3 ft and enough to eliminate traction if I don’t take a really good line. I have a little experience off-roading in a 03 Rubicon 6sp, but what I did with it wasn’t as trying as what I’ve put the pathfinder through. However, I’ll probably have the opportunity to drive it a lot during Christmas break, and was already planning on some light trail use with it if I can get my hands on it. Now I’m going to be paying a lot closer attention to how it performs.....

It’s gonna suck. How bad is it leaking?

Nah, it's a survivor and collectors are willing to pay... All the cheap ***** on the facebook page make me laugh. It's almost 30 years old. They're classics now.