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I snagged a battery hold down at the JY. A little sanding and painting and all fixed. Much better than the bungee cord I had. lol

Is there any way to increase the capacity of the OEM fuel tank? I know on Jeep Cherokees the tank is actually 20gal with a vent tube that limits it to 15gal. Modify that tube in the tank and many get 20+ gallons in their tank. Since our MPG is so poor, it seems like we need a larger capacity tank to extend our range between refueling.

Man @RainGoat, I wish I was getting 15 mpg. I took my lawnmower can with me over the weekend (it's such a POS, too) and got somewhat close to needing it. But then again, I was pushing my tank to the distance, noting that my idiot light comes on with about 5 gallons left (but presumably less). Aussies have had two extended fuel tank options that I'm aware of. One is the Long Ranger, which was a 95L (25gal) that installed where the undermount spare tire is. Not sure if ARB partnered with or acquired LR, but that's what ARB sells. The other was from Brown Davis, which was a 125L (33gal) tank replacement. My buddy was looking to import some years ago, and they were not cheap ($1K sounds about right), all things considered. After thinking about my own refueling in needs, I really like the idea of a small aux cell where the spare tire was. I might mock up some dimensions and request a quote from Boyd Welding (http://www.boydwelding.com/) who seem to have the process down, though I'd expect a custom job to be around $500-$600. Some time ago, I saw a rather clever roof-rack setup that was comprised of a marine-grade under-seat fuel tank and an external fuel pump; I'll have to find my bookmark for it. After spending maybe 10 minutes trying to refill my tank with the unused fuel, and a sore thumb holding some stupid EPA-compliant spout open, a gravity- or pump-assisted system seems like the way to go.

While I share Inyourface1650's enthusiasm to some degree, mjotrainbrain is correct. Per the Owner's Manual, only the RH/pass side is "rated" for towing, while the LH is for tie-down use only. Now, at least on my truck, both left and right tow points are almost identical in shape and mounting (same number of bolts per side), so I don't know why one side would be inherently weaker than the other, though I think I've seen some older models have 4 bolts on the RH side and only 3 on the LH (mine is 3 per side). I think both points would be fine for static pulls (winch, tow strap), but I'd be cautious about using dynamic pulls (kinetic, snatch, recovery straps, etc.) on them. The hooks themselves are fine. The radiator crossmember is boxed in to resist pushing/impact (though, I'll disagree on the part about the area taking the bumper load...the bumper brackets are flimsy and designed to collapse, and are mounted to a flimsy area well above the tow points), but it's the nuts welded to thin sheet metal that are weakest links. Ask @TowndawgR50; they can shift on a recovery pull. "Recovery" can refer to static and dynamic pulls. There's obviously some situational awareness for recovery efforts, but personally I'd limit their usage to only slow static pulls.

Mostly its been progressive failure: 2017@104K Driver/Front 2016@98K Pass/Rear 2012@71K Pass/Rear 2011@62K Driver/Rear Only the Passenger Rear has been replaced twice, the other 3 are just the originals finally going out. A buddy of mine who works at Nissan’s R&D in AZ told me part of the problem is that the O2 sensors need to wait to turn on a bit after the engine is started. This allows any moisture to be evaporated before they turn on & thereby decreases failure rates. He said there was a TSB that fixed it but my local dealer wanted me to pay $125 to flash it. I bought 3 O2 sensors on a liquidation sale for less than $45. Given it only takes me about 15” to change them out this seemed the economical choice. One has lasted 7yrs/44K & one only 4yrs/27K. The Passenger Front OEM still going strong at 16yrs/106K. Now that I’ve committed myself to this truck for another decade I’ll probably look for something better on the next replacement (unless I get a screaming deal again).

K, so I put a vg33e in my 1993 4x4 auto recently and I've been fine tuning it for about a couple of weeks. A while back I snapped off my last ignition key in the passenger door lock. I managed to get the busted off keyed portion out of the lock cylinder and stuck it in the ignition cylinder, then used a flathead to start it and turn it off. The ignition cylinder started to stick, so when I turned it to the starter trigger mode it wouldn't spring back to run and it kept the starter engaged until I manually turned it back to the run setting. This put a lot of wear on the starter, and I became very worried about the flywheel. I finally put in a new ignition cylinder, but not an oem one that goes on the steering column, but a generic one for lawnmowers and four wheelers, i guess. It took me a while to get the wires right, but I drove the truck around for a week with this setup and it seemed to work fine, except i couldn't get the tranny control module to perform the diagnostic process and that's currently irrelevant. I was driving it yesterday and it started making this loud squeal or screech. I pulled into a gas station and shut it off, then tried to start it again. It made squealed and I think it shuddered while the starter was engaged... It didn't really sound like a belt squeal so I consulted my dad and we decided it was probably the starter gear not retracting and interfering with the flywheel, producing the clacking and the squealing. I went and bought a duralast gold starter, all new components, and put it in. This was a massive pain with the header on, and the new starter had a bracket for the trigger plug that was in the way, but I'm not here to complain about that. It started right up and sounded fine at first, but when I backed up the slight hill and put it in drive it started clacking and squealing again, just like before. Unfortunately I don't remember if it started when I put it in gear, when I gave it some gas, or at another point. It also seemed to have a distinct lack of power, but it had a power loss problem before this which I've been trying to fix. I think it still has exhaust leaks in the new system i installed. The rattling could be caused by the fact that the passenger side header isn't in the Y-pipe flange at all, but held in place by a plumbing band clamp (i know, I know, I'm getting there...). It had a subdued clack before which I attributed to the loose exhaust connection, but it's worse now. Additional information: *once it started making the noise it continued in neutral and park, only stopping when i killed the motor *the ac was off and i wasn't steering the whole time, so i doubt it's the ac or power steering pump belts or pulleys So I need to get some opinions. Do you guys (and/or girls, I'm not picky about advice) think my torque converter is loose from the flywheel? Or the flywheel is loose from the engine? I didn't change the flywheel on the engine i swapped in, it's the original one from the 3.3. I'm almost completely certain that I indexed the torque converter to the transmission correctly, but it did take me a few tries, so maybe I damaged something then? Or is it probably just a squeaky alternator pulley/belt and the exhaust rattling? I didn't check any belts when I was there, i got freaked out and came home to check my favorite forum and have some chocolate coffee beans... I've been driving it for a few weeks since I first started the new 3.3 (not really new, but about 50,000 miles from a Japanese fleet Frontier) and it hasn't made any crazy squealing sound before. It's been shifting fine, though a bit late occasionally and some odd downshifting, but I figured that was because of the pinched vacuum lincoming off the air intake tube and the exhaust leaks. I was under the impression that if I hadn't properly indexed the torque converter and bolted it to the flex plate the tranny would have self destructed when i first started the swapped engine, or first put it in gear. I even pulled a 6000lb Plymouth Trailduster about three miles on hills two weeks ago and it pulled it like a champ. I've been testing it against more and more difficult tasks and it just kept running better and better, and then this happens. I would really appreciate it if anyone had any idea of what's going on with my truck.

There’s a reason I’m only doing a bumper that’s a collaboration between@hawairish &@TownDawgR50.

I put a 2001 QX4 gauge cluster in and when I fired it up I got this: Is this the “you left your burger on the bumper” sensor we 11/98 guys missed out on?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, those are the factory recovery points. I absolutely would pull a fully stuck mud bound Pathfinder using them. That's what they are for. That's what they are engineered to do. Nissan didn't put them there for decoration. Ever look at a freight tie down on a car? Much weaker and designed to only be pulled at a downward angle, and typically wont clear the bumpers (front or rear) On the R50 - at least the passanger one has a significant wrap around bracket that is bolted multiple times laterally into the front of the boxed section of the "frame". This is a key structural member that also takes the entire bumper load. These trucks are unibody. If you can't pull there, you can't pull them anywhere. Tow away.

For what it’s worth Dan, you are bringing alot of original thought & good questions to the forum. You’re definitely pushing me & making me learn & think about things!

Wow, that’s 25 gallons. Nice find. I can definitely see needing that in Australia. I know there’s a company that makes water bladders that go between the interior trim & exterior sheet metal in the cargo area of Patrols. I’ve always wondered if there was a version for the R50-I just doubted it as there’s so little aftermarket specific for us (Figured if there was one that fit a 3rdGen T4R it might work for us)

Most people just carry either a Jerry can or even “lawnmower” plastic cans on their roof. To be honest, I’ve never found I’ve needed one (though I’ve had them just in case on occasion) & I’ve spent a handful of days off-road in Big Bend NP, White Rim in Canyonlands NP & down the West coast of Vancouver Island. I’ve traversed almost all the CO passes & been very remote throughout the West. Just make sure to top off before you start your backcountry travel. I doubt I ever get below 15mpg & usually more like 20mpg highway though I usually calculate need using 17 or 18. Compared to all the V8s I’ve been with, I’m usually the mileage champion. Only those with 4 bangers seem to do better. Once your wheel no longer fits under the rear, it frees that space up, however, I think I’d put onboard water there before gas (though I suppose splitting the space up is a reasonable compromise).

https://www.arb.com.au/nissan-pathfinder-r50-1999-2005/fuel-tanks-storage/ Can't find a price on it.

There is a company that makes an extended range tank that goes where the spare is. Not really what it seems like you're looking for, but it's the only thing on the subject I've heard about in three years. I'll try to hunt down the link to it.

I had another paragraph but stupid Tapatalk has failed to save it twice, I’m out! Ah, don’t use the less than symbol....

My '95 just had a light that said "tire carrier." Guess Nissan decided that was too complicated. Or they realized that their logo kinda looks like a hamburger, and thought they'd just roll with it?

esto es en pinamar argentina, mi r50 y mitsubishi nativa de mi amigo

Thanks, the colors my favorite too. Only has 109k on speedometer and I just replaced the entire suspension

Wheeled it for the last 4 weeks. Awesome time. Ordered Doug thorley headers as my exhaust is original on the 95 and getting crusty.

She moved under her own power. Still more work to do, but a couple of quarts of tranny fluid, replace the diff fluid, and I may drive her to work.