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Hello all, I posted this in a FB R50 group and hope to get more eyes on here to take a look. I am just gonna copy/paste my FB post. This is a text message I sent to my mechanic about my truck. I put it on here to see if anyone has any thoughts/recommendations as to what might be the problem or better, come up with a solution. It seems to be almost a lost cause; sad situation because I love my beast but if I cant depend on it, I probably have to put it out to pasture. Quick synopsis, i recently completed a second build and swapped to xterra diffs with a lokka, swapped 3rd member with packed lsd, swapped out the tranny, installed a new exedy clutch, and replaced my AC system. Also had the radiator cleaned and flushed. This was to be my first real test of the recent work. The truck has never had an overheating issue before this shake down trip. Was going to go to lake havasu, about 150 miles from scottsdale, and run a bunch of trails along the lake. Had made the trip many times in the past and the truck was awesome on the trails. With the new gears the plan was to run even rougher stuff but that fell through. Please give me any feedback you feel is relevant, I want to save my buddy. Here is a synopsis of what happened. Looks like the text makes the post too long. I will place it in the comments. I took the truck out for a trip to havasu yesterday. We were very lucky to make it back. I’ll give you bullet points. - left early morning, got to the turn off on I-10 without any issues. - stopped to get a drink, left the truck idling as the boys were asleep and didnt want to turn off the ac, (which works great) - got back in the truck and the temp gage is almost at overheat temp. Didnt notice until i started driving. - once i drove for maybe 15-20s the temp immediately dropped down to normal, i literally watched the needle drop to normal temp in 1-2s. Also had a strange smell which I’ll get to later - thought maybe stuck thermostat. - spent the day without any issues although i did not want to take any chances and did not let the truck idle. - left at dark and drove at 70mph 3k rpm ac on without any issues for awhile - after ~1hr i saw the temp needle start to rise. It got to about 3/4 of the way up and i pull over at the next exit. - waited 15-20 min, started the truck, the temp was still at 3/4 and decided to try to get to a station a couple miles up the highway to run some water on the radiator. - as soon as i got over 15-20mph the needle immediately dropped to normal temp. Wish i had thought to take a video. - it stayed at normal temp until the gas station. Checked the coolant reserve and it was fine. Since it was normal temp i decided to see how far we could go. - ran for another 45min without the ac then hit a bad dust storm. Once we slowed down, the temp needle started to go up, at 3/4 temp i pulled over again. - waited out the dust ~15min, started the truck, temp was a little more than halfway. - as soon as we got some speed the needle again dropped to normal temp but the gearshift area and console between the seats was very hot. - hit a huge rain storm and the drop in outside temp kept the truck temp at normal for the next 30min. - hit construction outside phoenix and as we slowed down the needle climbed almost to overheat temp. - i drove on the shoulder, (pissing off the stopped traffic) at 35-40mph and that dropped the temp to almost normal. Again wish i had video to show the temp needle going up and down. - pulled into a station after getting off the highway. - after 15-20 min drove the last 45min home with the needle staying at normal temp. - Was a very nervous trip home but somehow we made it and in the driveway the temp was normal and the hood didnt feel hot. i let the truck idle for 5-10min to see what would happen and it ran as if everything was fine. Turned it off and there wasnt even any coolant bubbling into the overflow reservoir. I have no idea what happened but am ready to get rid of the truck as i feel i cant trust it. I will bring it in at some point to see if you can come up with a diagnosis. Also. At some point on the trip home, the check engine light turned off after on of our stops. Crazy. As for the strong smell from the morning stop. There is gear oil all over the back of the truck. The pics show it even came up around the bumper and sprayed onto the liftback and rear tire mount. Gasket failure? I'll try to post some pics through tapatalk to show the extent to which the gear oil was splattered over the back of the truck. I have no idea how much oil leaked, how much is left, etc. I certainly don't want to ruin the diff or cause future issues if I'm able to salvage the truck. Any help as to the cause and/or solution for either issue is greatly appreciated.

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Glad you got it sorted, on to the next thing!

So I finally figured out what the issue was. It was the injectors. Not sure if a couple were plugged or what exactly. After replacing them, it idled like it was supposed to. Passed smog no problem. Thanks for everyone’s help.

Hello. Brand new here so thank you in advance for the help and the information I've already been able to pull from this site. I recently purchased a 2001 with the 3.5 for my son. It had problems right off the rip. I have replaced the ECM with a refurbished one, changed the IACV because it was bad, the TPS sensor, and the MAF sensor. I did the IACV relearn using my laptop with NISSCAN II software and set the TPS using it as well. The truck runs fantastic if I leave the Throttle Position Switch (Grey Plug) unhooked from the TPS sensor. If I plug it in I get a surge in Park if I rev the engine to around 2000 rpm and hold it there. Kind of like a rev limiter is the best explanation of it. I get the same surge when it shifts from 1st to 2nd gear and a transmission flare from the 2nd to 3rd shift if it's under very light throttle. If you give it just a bit heavier throttle it doesn't do either of the shifting issues. I've checked vacuum hoses, tried 3 different TPS sensors, another IACV valve, a couple MAF sensors, fuel pressure regulator, and verified the swirl valve solenoid worked. Nothing changes the problem. Has any one experienced this? Does anyone know what I'm hurting by driving it without the grey plug connected to the TPS? Thanks again.

I have a 4.363 (48/11) R200A front diff from a 2000 Pathfinder. I'm located in NW Ohio. Asking $120. Local pickup only.

2004 Chinook Edition Hey all sorry to revive this thread but I am looking at getting some new rims and tires soon aswell. I just want to make sure I have all the right info again because Im a little confused with the backspacing and width of tires/rims. Ive watched Tyler208's video regarding offset and fitment but i am wondering whether a 16x8 with -19mm offset (3.75) and 265/70/16 is going to poke if i have the stock fender flares, and more importantly if i will be able to tuck the rear wheel, or will it be sticking out too far. Im not lifted currently but am planning to do a spring lift in the near future (if anyone knows where I can find a set or front and rear lift springs in Canada for a decent price id really appreciate it). I know the lift does not affect your backspacing since the spring perch moves with the wheel but I was curious if a 0 offset 16x8 will still clear the strut perch if I decide to go with a bigger tire in the future after lift and keep the rims. TLDR = Currently stock height (but new parts so not sagging), looking to buy rims and tires soon. Will do lift in near future but want to get a new set of wheels on soon. Whats the best rim and tire specs to allow tuck in the rear and to have flush fitment with stock fender flares. I attached a link to the Ceco steelies i was looking at below. TIA https://gbpperformance.ca/en/steel-wheels/1939823-ceco-crawler-series-42-16x8-6-1397-19n-c428-black.html

SAS'd on portals! That thing isn't messing around.

LOL, Kamchatka is in a galaxy. far, far away. Nice ride for your conditions! I wish mine was a diesel.

Sorry about the late response! I think the leak is gone, or was never leaking from the valve covers to begin with. The gaskets were installed round-side down. I have to do them on my D22 pretty soon, I'll try to give more info then!

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I've had 2.5" lift, with the same CV shafts for nearly 20 years, although I am talking about a WD21 with manual hubs, so there is only load when you lock the hubs. Plenty of sand, plenty of tough Vic High Country Trips etc. Easy to overthink it, I'd bet you will be fine, for peace of mind you could fit manual hubs, or take a spare set of CVs.

A 2" lift by itself isn't automatically a deal breaker, but the condition of the CVs and the overall front-end setup matters more than the lift height when you're planning 17,000 km through remote areas. Since you'll be far from parts and repair shops, replacing any questionable CVs before leaving is probably the safer investment than hoping they'll last. Manual hubs are also worth considering because they reduce wear on the front driveline during normal driving, which several owners have had good results with. Before heading out, it would also be smart to inspect the boots, check alignment, and make sure the suspension isn't topping out. While planning a long-distance road trip, transportation logistics can matter too. Peacock Rentals offers premium vehicle rentals across several U.S. locations for people who need dependable transportation during extended travel or while their own vehicle is being serviced, so having a backup plan is never a bad idea if unexpected repairs come up. With fresh CVs, manual hubs, and everything inspected beforehand, a well-maintained Pathfinder with a 2" lift has a much better chance of completing that trip without major issues. The key is making the weak points as reliable as possible before you head into the outback.

Looks like this topic isn't the duplicate one. Because I'm a nerd, I tabled all the FSM data for Pathfinders, Frontiers, Xterras, and others long ago. 4.363 standard cuts were found in: 00-01 Xterra XE 00.5 Frontier XE 01 Frontier SC But now, are you going to a 4.363 from a 4.636 or 4.90 for fuel economy or something? Or did you go with smaller tires? Technically, you could find 4.375 from older Frontiers, Hardbodies, and Pathfinders if you feel like setting up gears or maybe swapping the R200A (not sure if they bolt up the same...I imagine they do, and maybe it's as easy as swapping the stub shafts from your R200A to keep the same 3x2 6-bolt pattern vs. 5x1 5-bolt pattern CVs). The ratio difference is negligible.

Admin Please delete this duplicate topic.

Looking for a source for a standard cut 4.363 gears for a low pinion R200A diff. So far I've only determined that these were in 2001 supercharged frontiers. Does anyone know of other vehicles that I might be able to source these from? Also looking for the same if there are any related differentials (C200) that has interchangeable gears with a low pinion R200A. I'm trying to regear my 2004 Xterra with a H233B rear and R200A front. I got the rear already from a (R50) 2000 Pathy and I also harvested the front diff too. Unfortunately. I just found out the R50 R200A diff is a high pinion, reverse cut gear variant of the low pinion R200A that is in all other R200A variants. If anyone needs it, I am in NW Ohio.

Hi guys, I have a 1993 nissan pathfinder 4x4 se with 218000 miles on it. For a while now, it hasn't been driving the best, so I've replaced the air filter, done an oil change, cleaned the maf, changed the o2 sensor (found it through the codes), and just today changed the fuel filter. The car was running about the same or maybe a little better and the codes went away, but recently, maybe less than a week ago, it will randomly get super shaky (always been kinda shaky) and does not want to accelerate. It is loud and the car gets way shakier and struggles to gain speed but it kinda goes away once the rpms go up. It will stay for a few minutes and then randomly go away and become smooth again. I think I might try to get a video of this tomorrow and would really appreciate any advice. I know there's some other forums on here about this problem but most seem like it's a permanent problem and isn't coming and going like mine is. I think I will clean the throttle body and check the distributor tomorrow, but a mechanic should have replaced plugs and distibutor when it was takin in due to stalling issues about a year and a half ago. One last thing is, I could have sworn it's been happening more with the ac running since it's been hot here. Thanks a lot.

I have an old 2003 se that I bought brand new and am going to be trying to restore it after a lot of neglect (mostly the exterior, although there is a persistent p1456 code and not being able to put it in gear without a screwdriver in the gear shift assembly) Anyways, where are some good places to find oem parts? I know about Z1 but what else is there? I need new front windshield moulding and the auto glass place I went to had a hard time finding replacements. The top of my dash has a crack in it and if possible Id like to get a replacement put in. I guess could go to a junkyard bur how difficult is it to remove a dash or windshields if you’ve never done it before?

Hi members am having having a problem sourcing TD27 ETi can I just use TD27 in my LR50

I’ve been wanting to lift my r50 and I want to buy a 1.5 inch strut spacer BUT I wanna know if it’s safe on the CVs and steering rods, and recommended brands

as the title says I have this weird surge feeling on decceleration in my 1995 wd21 autotragic, it seems to happen when the engine goes to idle after engine breaking and will do it almost right until full stop. my suspicion is that my tranny is trying to go to neutral and engine brake at the same time causing this fluctuation in rpm and almost clunking. the conditions for this happen when the car gets hot and fully heat soaked while its summer (didn't happen all winter or fall) and the longer the distance (possibly hotter the car?) it gets worse, I've owned it for about 3 years and it has never gone away or necessarily gotten worse. I understand I'm pretty piss poor at describing this problem and can get a video of it doing it if wanted. Thank you in advance

It sounds like when installing the injector you may have torn the o-ring or the injector itself is faulty. It isn't that uncommon for the aftermarket ones to be DOA if you went that route. I've had better luck with used factory ones.

How did it go?

Additionally- since the torsion bars are needing to be pulled, we are going to do boots and clips. I would like to change all the front mounting bolts over to SS as well. Are there any other wear components on the torsion bars that should be swapped while they're out? Should the rear adjustment bolts be swapped with all new hardware (locking nut, jam nuts, pivot)? The front bolt sizes according to AI are below: can anyone confirm these? The Main Large Bolt (1 per side): Thread Size: M12 x 1.25 (Fine Thread) Length: 35mm long Tool Size: 19mm socket/wrench The Smaller Side Bolts (2 per side): Thread Size: M10 x 1.25 (Fine Thread) Length: 25mm long Tool Size: 14mm socket/wrench