hagge Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 Hi! New on the forum! My 1994 3.0 v6 does not reach working temperature, the meter stops at 1/4. I have only had it for a couple of months, so i have only driven it in cold weather. +5 to -10 degrees celsius. I have replaced the thermostate but no difference. Also tryed a piece of board in front of the radiator, that helped some. I am thinking about replacing the clutch cooling fan to an electric. The clutch seems to have the same resistance all the time, if i understand correct the clutch should be "loose" when cold? Or could it simply be a faulty sensor? The heater/coupe gets hot, but it takes forever... Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pav Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 Hi Hagge...just to be clear...does the temperature needle ever get close to the midway mark? If it does not and sits at 1/4 when warmed up, then its most likely the radiator thermostat. I had the same problem and my truck heats up nicely now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 There should be 2 sensors at the engine where the top hose attaches, you should check to see if they are working correctly. Go to the Garage section and at the top, download a copy of the FSM, the test procedures are in there. If blocking the radiator helped, then I suspect that the cooling system is working as well as it usually does. If the fan clutch is not working right and disengaging, this could be part of the problem as well. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagge Posted January 14, 2013 Author Share Posted January 14, 2013 Hi Pav! No the needle never get close to midway. I have replaced the thermostat placed in the engine block, connected to a hose going to the bottom of the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pav Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 Hi Pav! No the needle never get close to midway. I have replaced the thermostat placed in the engine block, connected to a hose going to the bottom of the radiator. Hmm...then I would go with Precise1's advice to further diagnose. The FSM is going to be your best resource. There is a section there that show exactly how to go through diagnosing a variety of these types of problems step by step. Out of curiosity did you disconnect your battery when you replaced the thermostat? When you put in the new one was there any improvement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 (edited) Both of my Pathfinder's had failed thermostat's when I got them. Stuck open, and even in moderate temperatures, with the lowest being around 30 and highs around 70 degrees fahrenheit, my needle just never moved from cold, even sitting while idling. Could be, maybe, you just need a thermostat with a higher temp plunger, like a 190 or a 195. VG's like to run warm anyway, and perform best. Edited January 14, 2013 by silverton 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 Different beast, but my Z24 Hardbody had a thermostat stuck open and the needle wouldn't budge. The heater and defroster sucked until I got that fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 (edited) What brand & temperature thermostat did you install? Inspect the radiator cap according to this TSB and replace with a new one (preferably OEM) if required. Edited January 14, 2013 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Does both the top and bottom radiator hose get warm? Or only 1 of them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balln Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 When I got my pathy and drove it the first time I had a big concern with the temp guage. It doesn't rise that high. A lot of guys on here have said there guage reads the same as mine. I have a pic of my temp guage at full warm up temp in my build thread in here. Search woody. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inyourface1650 Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Mine sits at a 1/4 when up to operating temperature, winter or summer. I replaced the stat about 2 years ago, it didnt change any. Now - it was -17F this morning and the heater SUCKS with a 170F 'stat. I'm going to put in a 180F here soon,. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 If the fan clutch has the same resistance it will not let the engine warm up for a long time. Really it just looks like the truck needs a new fan clutch to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagge Posted January 16, 2013 Author Share Posted January 16, 2013 Thank's for all the replys! I will look into what thermostat i put in, and what temerature it is set for. Precice 1, had a look at the FSM, what a great document! RF600, both hoses get hot. A new fan clutch is about 460$ here, i think it is cheaper to do an electric conversion. Anyone done that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 I have done it and using the factory probe too. Maybe someone can mail you a fan clutch? I could send you mine but it's aftermarket. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33772-dakota-digital-electric-fan-controller-with-ford-taurus-38-fan/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Sounds like you are on the right track. I would add that you could also have air trapped in the cooling system. The FSM tells how to properly bleed the coollant system. Old or improperly mixed ratio coolant could also cause some problems. But going back to what others have said already on this...thermostat was by first reaction when i saw the thread title and the low ambient outside temperatures I am guessing that you have in Sweden in winter keep the truck running colder than the stock thermostat was intended for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Yes, it can be quite helpful. $460!! :ohno01:I don't know what the currency exchange is, or shipping, but check out this site and NPORA Member... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/ Yes, many people have gone from fan clutch to E-fan, but I don't know if it would be cheaper for you. Look up 'e fan' or 'taurus fan' and I believe there is a thread in the Garage/How To section for the best info. B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted January 17, 2013 Share Posted January 17, 2013 Living in hot as hell Florida my temp gauge doesn't go above a quarter either and everything on mine is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagge Posted January 21, 2013 Author Share Posted January 21, 2013 I just found out that the thermostat i put in is a 170 F. Is there 180 F available? Tungsten, your conversion looks complicated with the controll unit and all. Couln't i just put an electronic thermostat on one of the radiator hoses? If so, wich one, upper or lower, and what temerature should the thermostat be set on? I have found adaptors you put in between the block and radiator with threads for a thermostat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagge Posted February 1, 2013 Author Share Posted February 1, 2013 Hi again! Removed the fan clutch today and put in an electric fan. Much better! but still not reaches working temperature when driving, the needle gets to 1/3, it is about 32F outside. When idling it gets hot and the new fan turns on when the needle reaches 1/2. I put an electric thermostat on the upper hose, 92 C or 198 F. Could it cause any problems now when the front of the engine does not get constant cooling from the clutch fan? I can not find 180F water thermostat here in sweden...only 170F...??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 Shouldn't be any problem with an electronic fan only being on part of the time. So it sounds to me like your 170F thermostat is working fine? So you should be alright in terms of not damaging anything by having the engine too cold or whatever. Now you can find and go with 180F if you want to run a little warmer, but that won't help you heat up faster or anything... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfoley412 Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Question!! If my radiator fan is on all the time is the only culprit the fan clutch or would the ECT sensor be one as well? Is there any way to test the fan clutch or should I just buy a new one? It definitely looks old (I checked it out a little bit last year before it got cold but I just decided to replace the thermostat until spring time) and I'm going to replace all of it anyways when I do the timing belt here as soon as it warms up a little bit.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 (edited) Sounds like your fan clutch is stuck on. I just replaced mine not too long ago because of this. I swear I gained almost 10hp and a few mpg back. Bought a hayden one off of rock auto, cost about 40 dollars. Edited February 21, 2014 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfoley412 Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 well I got a new clutch but the fan still comes on when I start the engine... no real difference really. I guess the new one was a little more resistant to me moving it by hand but not really... and my coolant reservoir keeps getting emptied but I don't really notice coolant leaking bad from anywhere.. maybe its the bypass hose behind the thermostat housing, the water pump or a plug of some sort that is also under the timing cover... or is the thermostat somehow stuck open?? she still runs great and whatnot so I'm not too worried but I want to figure it out hopefully when I replace the timing belt and all close and related components here as soon as it gets warm enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 The fan blade will always turn, just when the engine is hot the fan clutch will "engage" and it will spin faster to cool the engine, when the engine is cold it will just leisurely turn. If your coolant reservoir keeps emptying check your oil to make sure no coolant is getting into the oil, and make sure to look under the truck to see if you have a leak somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfoley412 Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Yeah I think there might be a small leak, maybe the water pump or possibly a hose, I have a new one, Its just too cold for me to want to dig into the engine right now cause if I do I'm going to do the timing belt and all related components.. I think the truck does run a little bit warmer now that I put in the new fan clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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